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victor310
04-19-2006, 04:04 AM
Hi: I get to finally pick up unit on the 26th of this mo. My original TM got sold, these has the power head, wich i can keep or they will take it off, not wanting to sound dumb,is it worth it, or is just something else to break, it wont make a difference money wise. Thanks ffor your input.

Bill & Lisa
04-19-2006, 06:18 AM
If you are referring to an electric tongue jack, I would say keep it - it is a simple DC motor and not a big maintainance problem. More info can be found by typing "Electric tongue jack" in the search window
Bill

victor310
04-19-2006, 06:20 AM
Power Head is the electric tongue jack,at least thats what the dealer called it, it was also new to me. always been electri tongue jack

sir1doc
04-19-2006, 08:28 AM
I have one on my older TM and love it. I would keep it. like the others say it might improve resale.

BobRederick
04-19-2006, 04:44 PM
Victor

Keep that dude!! You will like it. It saves a lot of sweat.

With a little luck, it will have a crank that will work if the electric mechanism fails some day.
If you are real lucky, there is a plug-in for the crank without taking any covers off.
If you are really really lucky, it will have a light that illuminates your hitch ball for night-time hookups!
If you are the most lucky guy in the campground, you won't ever have to plug the crank handle in!!!

Cost of that option is somewhere around $250. You will be happy every time you hook or unhook.

Magdefrau
04-19-2006, 07:39 PM
We had one on our used TM. I was unsure if it was a plus or not. If you have a crank, do not loose it, keep it handy. Like the jack and tire wrench for the TM's tires. Not that you will ever need it....but keep it handy. If you do not have a power head get one, it is a great time saver at the moment you need to save time. For and example, it is raining and the sooner your hitched the soon you are on your way. I plan to get powered leveling jacks on all four corners soon. Maybe a computer to level for me. Am I weak...no just with the TM camping it is more than the tent stake driving adventure. Now I plan to take mountain climbing classes. Bird photo outings. And other activities which are allowed with a quick camp set up. Yall are most liking looking for, but no I no long look for Bear sight seeing tours.

RCCBV1
08-28-2006, 04:57 PM
After leveling the TM on the initial trip, as well as in the front yard, I decided that the electric drill was not going to hack it, if you have a fairly good slope you are trying to level the TM on. I already had a 12v electric jack, but did not think I would need to use it, since it seemed that most used an electric drill to do the leveling. I purchased some additional leveling blocks to place the electric jack on, and have used the jack to get the TM level in a very short time, and with little effort. (I'm not soaking wet from perspiration) I still use the electric drill to run the TM jacks up and down, but only have to use the hand crank to snug the TM jacks in place. At home I use a 12v power pack. On the road, I will use the car 12v receptacle. This is one place you can purchase them at.

http://www.comforthouse.com/remconmicsup.html

The leveling was one of the few things about the TM that I found to be difficult to do before opening it up.

Speckul8r
08-28-2006, 05:24 PM
Rob, have you tried the little stick on levels? I have one on the tongue and one center rear. Open the trailer and level it as close to 100% as you can and Stick them on. They may not wind up 100% level but note the numbers that are on the backround and repeat at the next campsite. Mine work pretty good to get the initial side to side and front to back b4 opening. Then I put a torpedo level on top of the fridge and get it to where I want it from that. I doubt if I spend 10 minutes at it. Depends on how anal I am that day. :D

Also, a 18 Volt drill will pick it up right off the ground.

RCCBV1
08-28-2006, 06:27 PM
Iíve got a combination level (fore aft and side to side) glued to the tongue. I made new marks on it after I fine tuned the level, so I know when it is level. However, the effort to hand crank was just too much for me to consider sitting up the TM as being easy. I have three different 18v drills, but they all lug down when I have to raise the TM as high as I do in the front yard. I suggested the 12v jack for anyone else who is so far over the hill, like myself, that they canít even remember what the top of it looked like.

fcatwo
08-28-2006, 06:35 PM
About the stick-on levels; We like to get the TM perfectly level before opening it and this requires that the stick-on levels be accurate when the tops are in the down position. It takes a little more work during the first set up but saves time on every set up after that. We follow the regular leveling procedure on the first set up using a short carpenters level (front to back and side to side) on top of the range grate with frequent trips back outside to fine tune the leveling jacks -- cooks like their stoves level. We also check to make sure the fridge is level. Once we have the TM level we close it down and add the stick-on levels -- One on the front (viewable through the TV rear window) and one on the street-side-front-corner (within a couple of steps of the tongue jack). This process is not origional with us or is it rocket science but it is a time saver if you don't already know about it.

PopBeavers
08-28-2006, 09:33 PM
Do you use the really large stick on bubble levels? I have been debating what size to get. The big ones look a little ugly, but my eyes aren't likely to get any better with time.

fcatwo
08-29-2006, 02:13 AM
I've found there are only two sizes of stick-on levels -- too big and too small. We are using the small ones that are about 4" wide on the TM. I'd prefer something about 6" long if I could find them and I agree that the big 12" ones are unsightly. I do have to open the rear window in the truck and both windows in the cap to see the small front stick-on level from the drivers seat while backing and usually just hop out to check it. I've found our TM's door works better if I do most of the side to side leveling with blocks under the tires. I use the side leveling jacks just to firm things up. I also carry enough blocks to raise the TV's rear wheels if we are stopping for just one night and don't unhitch unless absolutely necessary. My logic is that the TM can't roll off down a hill if I don't unhook it from the TV. It also saves the re-hitching chore.

commodor47
08-29-2006, 04:30 AM
. . . I also carry enough blocks to raise the TV's rear wheels if we are stopping for just one night and don't unhitch unless absolutely necessary. . . .


We have done the same thing when stopping for one night. I've also noticed that releasing the spring bar (WDH) tension makes it easier to "somewhat" level the TM front to back.

Harry Womack
08-29-2006, 09:35 AM
I use the small levels. I have one mounted on the inside of the frame near the hitch for the front to rear level. The other level is mounted to the battery rack angle iron for side to side level.

PopBeavers
08-29-2006, 10:51 AM
I've found our TM's door works better if I do most of the side to side leveling with blocks under the tires. I use the side leveling jacks just to firm things up.
I completely agree with this statement. I had the same experience.

I have been using an 18 inch carpenters level when at home and a 6 inch level when on the road.

One reason I have been delaying putting on permanent levels is I have been forthing and backing on what I consider level to be.

My first goal was to get the fridge *EXACTLY* level. This resulted in water on the counter over the fridge to run towards the seat instead of towards the sink.

My second attempt was to make the counter over the fridge lean slightly towards the street side and slightly toward the rear. This would keep the water from running on to the seat.

I have finally decided to level the stove top. Cooking crepes and frying eggs is not easy if the stove is off level.

I have determined that if the stove top is level then the fridge is close enough. The water on the counter problem can be solved by getting a drain mat under the dish drainer.

So real soon now I will be ready to attach some permanent levels to the exterior.

It only took me 18 months and about a dozen trips to reach this conclusion. I can't wait to see how long it takes me to figure out where I want to mount the levels.

OCD (Obsessive Compulsive Disorder) can sometimes get in my way.

RCCBV1
08-29-2006, 01:30 PM
I also find that I have to have the head end of the bed level or just slightly raised. If it is down, I am not able to sleep that well.

rockerga
08-29-2006, 01:32 PM
I LOVE IT!! Someone as bad as I am.... That is why until I "mount" permanently bolted levels to my TM I use a 12" aluminum I keep in my TV. Those "stick-ons" aren't worth postage! They move with the slightest touch.

By the way my wife hasn't complained yet regarding "level" regarding the stove and cooking and I just level resting mine on the awning mount (for frt to rr) and then over the front and rear windows. (for L to R) and I always lean a little forward/right (Looking at it from the TV edge on) in the summer to allow the A/C to drain down to the front curb side of the TM away from me and the awning.

edweidig
08-30-2006, 11:09 PM
I have one of the big ugly levels mounted above the front window of the TM so I can see from my TV to get side to side close to level (+/- 1" or so) when pulling or backing into a site. I then use the smaller stick ons for front to back leveling. If I'm going to be somewhere for more than overnight I will use a carpenters level on the stove or fridge for additional fine tuning if I feel it to be necessary.

Bill & Lisa
09-01-2006, 03:50 AM
Ron,
I am similar to you but I have the front slightly elevate at the front curb side jack. Two reasons.

1. the door latches easier
2. the water from the A/C drips off the front STREET side corner.

Seems to me that front curb corner would put the water right on to yout awning or trying to work it's way into the light mounted up there.

The area around my front street side tends to be alittle damp from drips from my water hook up anyway so I figure why not.

Bill

rockerga
09-01-2006, 05:16 AM
Bill, I have done both and it seems that depending upon the level of the campsite L to R I won't argue with it but go with the environment but I only off-center the bubble ever so slightly just enough to let gravity do its job so I have not encountered any door problems.

Should I check my fridge level all directions? I have always centered the entire unit and left it at that. As I said before we have not noticed an off level at the stove so I never bothered with it any further.

Bill & Lisa
09-01-2006, 11:07 AM
I don't check the fridge but that doesn't mean I am right. Of course my fridge has always functioned okay so it must be close enough.

Bill