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Denny_A
05-04-2002, 03:29 PM
Home at last. Thank G_d, we're home at last

We just finished our second trip, and have logged 5700 miles since Mid-March. I thought a herd of snorting, stomping Brahma bulls, on the other side of a fence in a Texas campground, would be the unexpected problem this trip. They weren't too keen about my "big" dog. Dog wanted at 'em! Not a problem. Dog changed his mind when they charged (a bluff, I think) the fence. We all retired to our respective corners. ;D

I could go on and on about how great the TM tows (no anti-sway device). I've been thru wind and rain storms and hail, with incredible crosswind gusts. I now have a "crinkled camper" which resembles a titlist above the front window awning.

But, I digress. I have had a rather "bothersome" problem occur. Discovered the problem at setup Thurs, the last overnite, with 400+ miles to go to reach home.

The curb-side, front shell, black-handled, hook-release latch was tenuously grasping a dangling "shell bracket". There being no connection, latch-to-shell, the forward shell was raised 6 to 8 inches above the aft shell. I could almost read the time on the clock from outside.

The 2 inch long sheet metal bracket-attachment screws had pulled out of the shell and left behind somewhere between Branson, MO and Litchfield, Ill (I was, too). I called my dealer, but no help. The TM factory was already vacated for the day. So, I was on my own.

Here's a QUESTION for anyone. If you've removed on of those brackets from the shell, how many drilled holes have you found on the bottom surface of the shell? Since there are 2 machine screws, with combo hex-head and straight-slots for tightening, I expected to find 2 drilled holes. After pulling the screws on the rear shell bracket, I found 4 drilled holes. Seemed to be spaced so that the bracket could be positioned in any of three positions, fore-to-aft. QUESTION: Can anyone confirm this for me? Maybe an unsupervised trainee was doing the assembly. Maybe that's the standard to aid proper alignment during assembly.

The failed bracket area had "8"  >:( holes drilled. Two sets were so close together that the thin sliver of metal separating them tore thru, the screw let loose, and the other screw worked until it enlarged its drilling. Wham - gone.

My trailer is a brand new 2002 - never worked on (I know the  dealer is not whacko and does NOTdelight in impractical jokes), so it seems logical to assume that the trailer was manufactured that way.

A closer look at the same bracket, aft shell opposite side, revealed that it was slightly off-alignment, fore-aft. So, I backed the screws out and... (good guess)... there were extra holes, the aft hole the screw came from is drilled immediately inboard of another, as if to salvage an error.

After a mad scramble to Jerry Rig the trailer, we made it home w/out incident. Luckily a large hardware store, which carried an amazing array of machine screws, had some 1/4-20 x 2" screws. The thread count was wrong, but it actually worked to my advantage. I was able to use a pair of relatively intact drilled hole; the screws made their own fit thru the existing threads. THe 2" length allows (I think) the screw to thread across and into the other side of the square, hollow aluminum beam which forms the bottom edge of the shell. The salvage job got us home. Amazingly the screws did not loosen one iota.

Howsomever - the TM folks has some 'splaining to do on Monday.

There were a few other "fire-in-my-eyes" irritants during the hell (Texas)-and-back trip just completed. More posts to follow.


Denny_A __(10,000 BTU's was a blessing for record
                heat in Houston)

05-05-2002, 11:32 AM
Based on my observations at the TM factory:

Holes are drilled using an air-powered drill and 2 self-tapping screws secure the striker.  Obviously, they had some problems getting everything aligned the first or second times.

Understand in making 1-2 TMs per day this would not be an automated or even fixtured operation.  Trial and error happens although the swiss cheese look on your unit seems excessive.

Sounds like your oversize screws did the trick.

Denny_A
05-05-2002, 04:30 PM
joeber wrote:

>Holes are drilled using an air-powered drill and 2 self-tapping screws secure the striker.  Obviously, they had some problems getting everything aligned the first or second times.<

That's what I figured. Some sort of template would be secured to the frame, the drilling accuracy (angle of entry) being dependent on operator skill.

I have a huge problem with a company letting such an obviously botched job pass "QA" inspection. Possibly the assembler knew the errors couldn't be detected by inspectors with the striker bracket installed! Then it reverts to individual accountability.


Denny_A

05-06-2002, 10:13 AM
Well Happytrails recently reported the cost of a new front shell at $8,000.  So the factory is not going to scrap a front shell because of some mis-drilled holes.

However, I'm would also bet that the person responsible for the quality inspection wasn't aware of this condition, as you stated.

KB7OUR
05-06-2002, 12:35 PM
Heck, I'm going to bring some tools in when our TM is ready to pick up so that I can do some quality inspections for this problem. Any other suggestions of what I should look for before I drive it off the lot?

Wade

KB7OUR
05-06-2002, 12:35 PM
Heck, I'm going to bring some tools in when our TM is ready to pick up so that I can do some quality inspections for this problem. Any other suggestions of what I should look for before I drive it off the lot?

Wade

Denny_A
05-07-2002, 05:45 AM
Follow-up to latch bracket problem.

I talked to J. Davis. After some discussion, he went to confab w/someone else, then called me back.

Though not stated explicitly, I believe, from the tone of our discussion, this is a "unique" problem - not reported to TM before. It is thought that it was, assuming my info is accurate (it is), that a worker may have done the deed and not reported it. QA would not catch it on final inspection, due to the bracket hiding the extra drilling.

TM will make it good if I can a) get the trailer to Lake City (can't/won't) or b) if I find someone locally who can make the repair. If I get a written estimate and send it to them, TM would pay me directly. :) Probably about $8000 to build a new shell? ;D

As usual (based on other posts in the Forum), TM stands behind its product. I am, at this point, satisfied with the response.

I'm going to borrow my daughter's digital camera - show TM the grizzly :o details, and this Forum as well.


Denny_A

05-07-2002, 11:37 AM
You might:

Ask the factory to weld a pair of strikers each to an approx. 3" long metal bracket with holes and paint.  Or you could have this done locally in a manner so these plates clear the existing misc. screws which hold things together.  These new holes will get you virgin material for sure and provide a stronger anchor than the original.

Have your local dealer or someone capable to reinstall and adjust the latches for the added material thickness.

Denny_A
05-07-2002, 05:31 PM
I posted about 5 pictures of my Receiver Bracket problem - they're in the TrailManor pictures section. You can't imagine until you look.

Only ONE set of drillings is up to snuff. The worst set looks as if the assembly person was on ecstacy.

Here's me just before retirement. Sure miss those Ravens.
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> Just kidding. It's me, but only some of it. Y'all 'll hafta guess.

Denny_A
05-07-2002, 05:33 PM
:-[ . Oops, forgot to arttach!

Denny_A
05-07-2002, 05:35 PM
Ummm.....nevermind. Guess .jpg don't post in General. Learn something new everyday

Denny_A
05-08-2002, 06:00 AM
jeober wrote:

>You might:

>Ask the factory to weld a pair of strikers each to an approx. 3" long metal bracket with holes and paint. Or you could have this done locally in a manner so these plates clear the existing misc. screws which hold things together. These new holes will get you virgin material for sure and provide a stronger anchor than the original.
>
>Have your local dealer or someone capable to reinstall and adjust the latches for the added material thickness.
>

Took me a while to visualize your engineering proposal. Let me state my understanding of it and see if I get the picture.

Since about 2.4 inches of buggered-up drillings has to be spanned, a pair of striker "pins", would be welded to a bracket which is long enough to span each side of the carnage.

Only one striker is used in the standard application, so I'm having trouble with that mental picture of how it would be adjusted to align with the latching hook.

Problem I see with that is that the hook latch's width would require the strikers to be too far apart- and no adjustment is possible. A striker either lines up with the hook, or it doesn't. The second striker would seem to be superfluous.

Taking your idea a step further, I think a bracket 6" long would allow for 2 screws/drillings on either side of the messed up area. Then a longitudinal slot coud be drilled in either end of the bracket to facilitate fore and aft alignment for latching. The standard brackets have logitudinal slots for that purpose. Then drill four holes in virgin material, 2 on either side of the messed up area.

The combo of slots in the new bracket and drillings to choose from should allow enough range for fore & aft alignment with the hook assy.

Appreciate your input. You got me thinking of a fix whch doesnt require any welding on the camper. Don't know what the heat would do to the shell innards.


Denny_A

05-08-2002, 01:05 PM
I think I wasn't clear...

What i was describing was to cut a strip of metal about 3/4" by 3.5", weld a striker right onto it, and put hole each side of the striker (these being about 2.75" apart).

You could put elongated holes here if you think you can get a good clamping force from your fastener.  Use some Loctite if you know what this is.  

However, I don't think it would be hard to locate the striker for drilling:  Engage the loose striker in the latch, have someone hold the shell down while you mark the drilling holes.  Having said this though I watched the factory repairman mis-drill a bunch of holes when we recently had our latches upgraded.  I guess it needs to be a two man job.

Denny_A
05-08-2002, 01:33 PM
jeober wrote:

>What i was describing was to cut a strip of metal about 3/4" by 3.5", weld a striker right onto it, and put hole each side of the striker (these being about 2.75" apart).<

>You could put elongated holes here if you think you can get a good clamping force from your fastener. Use some Loctite if you know what this is. <

>However, I don't think it would be hard to locate the striker for drilling: Engage the loose striker in the latch, have someone hold the shell down while you mark the drilling holes. Having said this though I watched the factory repairman mis-drill a bunch of holes when we recently had our latches upgraded. I guess it needs to be a two man job.<

Thank you. I think I got it. But, as you said, it's a one shot deal when aligning the assembly, marking and drilling. One oops and on to plan B. Still, with extra care, it should be ok.

I take it that when you said weld two strikers ro a metal strip, you meant a second as a backup if trouble were encountered. Each would be identical (?); holes being drilled in the same spot on each strip.

Very much appreciate your input.


Denny_A

05-09-2002, 12:32 PM
i have a 3023, 2001 i bought in april i went out and looked at the aft shell latch brackets and even without removing them i can count at least 5 or 6 holes for the brackets that have been drilled. the two screws that secure each bracket seem to be solid and tight i put a wrench on them, should i be concerned about so many holes being drilled in that area or should i be contacting my dealer and bringing it to his attention. i don't want a problem with them later down the road when the warranty is gone. any info from you or what you have learned from the factory would be greatly appreciated.   thank you in advance.

Denny_A
05-09-2002, 12:58 PM
Emma opined:

  >should i be concerned about so many holes being drilled in that area or should i be contacting my dealer and bringing it to his attention. i don't want a problem with them later down the road when the warranty is gone.<

In the "TrailManor Pictures" section, look at the 5th photo (4th reply) of the photos showing the probs I've had.

The 5th photo is as close as can be to the standard drilling in the bottom edge of the shell.

There are 5 holes, in a straight line (even tho I counted(?) 4). With that arrangement there are 3 possible position in which the striker bracket can be secured. Threading the bolts into holes #2 and #4 being (I feel confident) the normal position, if all had gone well during the pre-drilling during manufacture.

Therefore anything beyond 5 holes was an attempt to correct for an error or two.

I'm willing to bet (or not) that if all the brackets on 10 TM's were pulled and inspected, at most, one might show signs of free-lancing to salvage fitment. Three of the  4 drillings on my TM were "a little strange". Which leads me to believe an unsupervised, OJT, new employee is as good a reason as any for the sloppy work.

Larry_Loo
05-10-2002, 04:48 PM
My wife and I returned yesterday from a 5 day trip. This morning when we opened up our TM, we discovered that the upper shell's latch pin bracket on the curb side came off at that same moment. One of the bracket's 5/16" machine screws apparently had dropped off on to the highway somewhere. The other was dangling from the loose bracket.

Last year the latch pin bracket on the other side of the upper shell came off while returning home from a two week trip. I welded up a bracket similar to the one Jeober suggested and screwed it into two new holes. So far, the bracket is still attached, but, I expect it to come off in the future - for reasons I'll explain in the next paragraph.

The main problem with the TM factory's method of attaching these brackets is that the underside edges of the shells appear to be 1/16" to 3/32" thick aluminum. This thin aluminum sheet does not provide adequate holding power for either sheet metal screws or machine screws. As you might expect, the latch pin brackets are under considerable tension when the shells are closed. Since each bracket is attached by two screws inserted into thin aluminum, it is only a matter of time when the brackets come off. That time usually occurs when the trailer is bouncing around on the highway during a trip.

Even if DenTed were to have a new bracket welded up and attached with screws into new holes that straddled the old holes, the bracket is likely to come loose later - because the screws are inserted into thin aluminum sheet. A better method of attachment would be to insert rivet nuts into the underside of a shell and then fasten a bracket with machine screws. Rivet nuts are "pulled up" just like pop rivets. Unlike pop rivets, however, rivet nuts are internally threaded. They come in sizes ranging from 6-32 through 5/8"-16, in both aluminum and galvanized steel. Since the threaded barrel of a rivet nut may be 1/4" or longer, it will provide a lot of holding strength for a machine screw that's inserted into it.

Now that my second bracket has come loose, I plan to order some heavy duty ones from the TM factory - and attach them all with rivet nuts. ;D

KB7OUR
05-11-2002, 03:22 AM
Suppose I wanted to retrofit my new TM with rivet nuts as you have described. This enhancement seems quite robust and makes complete sense (to me). So much so I would think the factory would upgrade their current method at minimal cost. Working from a brand new TM, what parts would I need to obtain to accomplish this upgrade. I plan to do a lot of dry camping out in the boonies, over hill and dale and then back for more. I would be real unhappy if I lost a latch or two out there with no means to hold the top down securely for the rought ride out.

Wade

Denny_A
05-11-2002, 03:14 PM
Wade wrote:

>Suppose I wanted to retrofit my new TM with rivet nuts as you have described. This enhancement seems quite robust and makes complete sense (to me). So much so I would think the factory would upgrade their current method at minimal cost. Working from a brand new TM, what parts would I need to obtain to accomplish this upgrade. <

Funny your post should be here; posing the right question at the right moment!

I finished repairing my damaged area about an hour ago. Taking Larry_Loo's riveting response, I bought me a 1) RivNut set ($10), a 2) 23/64 drill bit ($6), a 3) rat tail file ($3), and chose the 4) 1/4-20 thread size RivNut (3/8 o.d.).

Took enough of the appearance-molding screws out to drop the molding down, then pulled outboard and upward, and held it in place with a tie wrap on the little swing-out, upper-door catch.

To prevent the drill bit from wandering all over the place (I had double holes everywhere. I could have a) drilled a pilot hole in any metal stapping (like ones used for securing joists) for use as a drill guide, or b) used brut force and awkwardness, or c) finesse (Ha!). ::)

Me- none of the above. I found the exact spot between two merged holes, kept the drill unplugged, and slowly turned the bit by hand. Turns out there's a thin metal strip covering the aluminum and spanning only the area of the drillings. It tried to shread rather than drill. So I'd turn by hand, then do a little filing, and so on. In one instance, the 23/64 drill spanned both holes when the job was done, leaving a nice, clean, snug hole. The second set was a bit tough to keep the new hole confined to the position I chose. Here the rat-tail file was "very" useful. Still the edge of one of the holes was peaking out from under the RivNut collar at completion. I never did apply power to the drill.

End of story. Plugged the RivNuts it, snugged 'em, and used the same machine screws I bought under duress last week. The molding strip was repositioned over the Rivnut, and the machine screws went through the molding and into the RivNut. I may go back and drill the molding with a 3/8th's bit, since the collar is about molding thickness. No hurry.

The screws have a good grip on the RivNut AND thread into the tapped hole above the RivNut.

Problem solved - and the bracket is quite SECURE!

If one did not have to deal with my particular mess, then the drilling is straight forward. Be advised, however, that the aluminum is so soft that a drill spun up to speed quickly could slice through too rapidly, and start shreading the first layer of metal, followed by gouging out, rather than drilling through the aluminum beam. Patience is a virtue?

Denny_A ; A happy ;D camper!

Larry_Loo
05-14-2002, 08:52 AM
This morning I reattached the curbside latch pin bracket on my TM, which detached itself a week ago while returning home from our last trip. I enlarged the two existing holes in the underside of the upper shell with a round file and then a 3/8" drill bit. After inserting a "1/4"-20 nut insert" into each hole, I tightened each down with a $2 insert tool that I purchased along with the nut inserts. Fastening the latch pin bracket back in place with two 1/4"-20 hex-head machine screws completed the repair.

I really wanted to use "knurled rivet nuts" for the repair because these have a wider flange than the nut inserts do, but, was unable to find any of them in our local hardware and agricultural supply stores. Knurled rivet nuts should give much greater holding power than the nut inserts because of the wider flanges. Although they are available from McMaster-Carr, I didn't want to purchase a package of 50 and a special rivet setting tool - priced from $75 to $230 - just for this one job. Therefore, the nut inserts will have to do. Even using the nut inserts, however, I believe this fastening method is stronger than the TM factory's method of screwing sheet metal screws into the 1/16" thick aluminum sheet on the underside of the shell. For those of you who don't know what nut inserts and rivet nuts are, look up McMaster-Carr's website at:

http://www.mcmaster.com/

Thpe in "rivet nuts" in the search box on the left and click on "find" and you will be shown what they look like. ::) ::) ::)

arknoah
05-16-2002, 01:16 AM
A year ago, after our shakedown run, I took the trailer back to the dealer for a few items, and when I arrived, he pointed out that the brackets holding down the front half was hanging by a single bolt.   While they had the trailer, they fixed it, and at least once I have tightened then, but now I wonder if I should remove the brackets to see what's below them.  

I can't say I'm looking forward to this, in case I find little tic tac toe patterns of holes, but I guess it's better to know that not to know, huh?

Thanks DenTed for bringing this matter to our attention!

Happytrails
05-20-2002, 12:43 PM
I've got a 1986 TM 3023, mine was originally made with wood in that section where the latch is, which is rotted out and in need of replacing. What they put in them now is 1x1" tubing, backed by 1x1/2" wood. (Which I have now to replace all my wood out with.) Just a note that you should probably use at least 1.5-2" screws to replace the old ones. If they're a little long, is ok, they're just going into the styrofoam, and won't hurt anything, but I would suggest using "fatter" screws on that. For what it's worth, I'm in the midst of a MAJOR overhaul of my TM's structure, (well, to most people, no big deal to me). I will be putting up a web site with all kinds of pictures and not so much "how to's", but "How I did it anyway......soon concerning the structure of the TM's, as soon as I get it up, I'll post the link in here. Just a hint of the kinds of things you will find.....up inside the "pocket stops" where your "L" shaped lift arms go when it is up, there's a rubber bumper in there and it stops in place.....how many people in here know that 1/8" shim under that little rubber bumper = 1 full inch of travel for the shell? Just hope it helps some people in the same boat as me....yup, I got a bargain on the TM, but needs work, but will be up and camping with it REAL soon!

KB7OUR
05-21-2002, 03:03 AM
Looking forward to seeing the pics of your $400 TM overhaul. I just learned that my 2720SL is now on a truck headed for AZ. What year is your unit?

Wade

Happytrails
05-21-2002, 11:20 AM
Mine's a 1986 TM 25 which is the same as a 3023. It has the old square windows that they don't make anymore, but I love it all the same. LOL, the RV shop I took it to said, "there's NOTHING you can do for it, the WHOLE top is rotted out!" Being the stubbern cuss that I am, and HATE to be told there's something I can't do, I just HAD to prove em wrong! (Besides, it's a TM, and I LOVE IT!) They tried EVERYTHING to convince me to strip it down, sell the appliences, and turn it into a car hauler! (Completely unacceptable to me knowing how they are made!) The reward? Well, Tonie (an older female that owns the shop), told me I'd be sorry once I got into it all etc....etc.....that it was just too much work....blah blah blah.....it took 5 of em to set it up....which I believe, took 4 of us to just get it back down because of the faulty roof section........Welp, I dropped her jaw when I told her it only took me 1.5 hours to fix the roof section, and 45 mins for the wall section......and I got it up ALL BY MYSELF! LOL! I then slipped in that I had all the materials ready to go to fix the main problem, and they would go in as soon as I got a chance.......she was at a loss for words to say the least! (Don't ya just cherish moments like that?) I pinched a nerve in my sleep somehow sat night, and couldn't do anything sunday because I couldn't do anything with my right hand, but I did set out to clean the whole interior. I blew the whole thing out with an air compressor, scrubbed all the walls, and steam cleaned all the carpeting and beds....inside, it looks pristine now! ALL of the mildew is GONE! Came right out of the walls and ceiling.....mind you, this thing had sat for YEARS completely unprotected, and obviously in a moist environment......the last inspection decal was from 1998. I found the inside to be in TOP condition except the spider webs and mildew, which proved to be not much of a match at all for an air compressor and a good scrub brush! There was NO, I repeat, NO water damage whatsoever inside the trailer....and after getting it up in my driveway, and testing the water system, seems it was properly winterized! :o (Something of which was a small concern, but all was well with the water system) Heck, even the terlit flushes like a champ, tho doesn't have that nifty gauge in it! I'd have to say thanks to everyone in this discussion group, had it not been for you guys, I might very well have given up on it before getting started on it, now it's a labor of love! Trailmanor has been absolutely GREAT about helping me. Jimmy Davis, as everyone has said, has always been really great with me. LOL, I've probably driven the poor fella crazy by now, but he's always been really nice, but now that I've got things where I can see them for myself, no need to bug him about it! Donny down there, well, hope he's doing alright....he suffered a heart attack recently and has been outta work.....hope he's ok! He sent me a lot of diagrams etc that have been INVALUABLE! I really can't see another company going to the extent that they have for me, buying an old unit of theirs and wanting to fix it up.......it tells me that they care about their product, and their people. (Notice how low of a turnover they have, they must treat their people good). Anyways, I'll post the link as soon as I've got that web page up. I think a lot of people may benifit from it. Hal I think said something about the "roof over".....hmmm....that's pretty interesting.....maybe that's what had happened to it in the past! Who knows? But I will get this thing up and going real soon....not much left to do to it!

arknoah
05-22-2002, 02:08 AM
Happytrails, you've said it all.  A great story.

Well, I finally looked at the holes in my trailer for the brackets, and only one (street side rear, I think) seemed to have more than the required number of holeas drilled.  While for the price, I'm not happy that any holes aren't exact, I suppose I should count my blessings that the other three are right "on the money!"

Happytrails
05-22-2002, 11:22 AM
Lol, and me with only 4 holes between two brackets......too bad there's nothing for the screws to go in yet! Hoping to get the whole job done this weekend.....aaaakkkk! Just occured to me I need to do a little pretreating and glueing either tonight or tomorrow night! :o

Bill -n- Karen

2swans
05-28-2002, 01:27 AM
???we've looked at rivet guns at lowe's and home depot and have not been able to find one that will attach rivet nuts. can someone suggest a brand name or store where we could find a gun to attach rivet nuts?(we also have a white bracket that completely pulled out of the shell and ripped the aluminum shell). thanks for your help. dale swan of 2swans.

Denny_A
06-01-2002, 11:10 AM
???we've looked at rivet guns at lowe's and home depot and have not been able to find one that will attach rivet nuts. can someone suggest a brand name or store where we could find a gun to attach rivet nuts?(we also have a white bracket that completely pulled out of the shell and ripped the aluminum shell). thanks for your help. dale swan of 2swans.

I bought a "Hand Nut Riveter" set at Menards(a smaller version of Home Depot, or Lowe's, indigenous to the North Central states).  The "riveter tool" you mentioned above is similar  to a "blind rivet tool" (gun) , but it has a threaded nose piece. The "blind nut" (aka Rivnut) is screwed onto the nosepiece, then the RivNut is inserted into the hole drilled for it.  The crimping action is identical to that of a rivet gun, except that the threaded nosepice has to be "unthreaded" to complete the installation.

Everything came as a set (in my case). Tool + 4 different sizes of "blind rivet nuts" (#6-32, #8-32, #10-24 and # 1/4-20), with 10 each per size. Also each size has an appropriate nosepiece for the tool. I used # 1/4-20 RivNuts.

Whatever you find, if it has all the necessary components, will have a tool as hefty as a "small" bolt cutter, and probably 4 separate compartments for the different sizes of RivNuts- all enclosed with the ubiuitous, impossible to open plastic.

Aside: It's tough to use words as substitutes for pictures. Hope this hasn't been too garbled.


Denny_A

Larry_Loo
09-14-2002, 02:10 PM
Hello to All,

I've not contributed to this Board because we've been away for the past 3-1/2 weeks and didn't always have an Internet connection.

9 days ago my wife and I returned from our 5,500+ mile round trip from Central California to a huge woodworking machinery trade show in Atlanta. We towed our TM all the way there and back without any towing problems but had a rear truck tire blow out (in New Mexico) and a minor rear end accident (20 miles from our destination in Georgia). Also, on the return trip back our 1993 Ford F-150 started leaking oil. The source of the leak wasn't evident so I decided to check our truck's oil level frequently and add oil until we got home. We put in 20 quarts of oil during the 2,600+ mile journey home! The truck will go into my mechanic's shop next week.

From the very beginning, however, we had trouble with 2 of the shell's latches. As we were closing up our 3124KS on the morning of our departure, we discovered that we couldn't latch the rear shell on the door side. It appeared that the hook was worn on the bottom part of the latch and therefore would not securely engage the strike pin of the upper part. That latch had held every time previously - until that morning! Because we had an exhibiting deadline to meet, I decided to use that side's front latch to hold both front and rear halves down. It worked for the time being. When we pulled into an RV park in Oklahoma, however, I found that the machine screws holding the latch pin bracket to the bottom of the upper shell were coming loose - as well as 4 or 5 of the sheet metal screws that attached the decorative, U-shaped molding to the bottom edge of the upper shell. What I didn't realize at that time was that the 1" square aluminum tube forming the bottom edge was being pulled down, away from the inner and outer aluminum sheets of the wall. I borrowed the manager's electric drill at that RV park and made some temporary repairs that seemed as if they would work.

By the time we arrived at our RV park in the Atlanta area, however, it was evident that the 1" square aluminum tube was really pulled down and away from the bottom of the wall. In fact, it had cracked at the point where a screw hole had been drilled into it for the latch pin bracket. There was nothing more that I could do in the way of repairs out there in the field. I went to the nearest Lowes and found some 1/4" rope racheting pulleys. That is, these pulleys had a sprocket with something like spiral teeth and a racheting mechanism that allowed you to tighten it down snugly over a load. I bought 2; they were a bargain at $7.50 apiece because they were exactly the kind of thing that I was hoping to find. With about 25 feet of 1/4" braided nylon rope over the top and sides of the TM and another 7' length underneath the TM, we were in business. I tied hooks into each end of the short piece that would form the part of the loop underneath the trailer. I tied mating hooks in each end of the long piece that looped over the trailer's top and sides. This long piece also contained the racheting pulleys near its ends. Closing the TM required me to make a loop over the end of the front shell by hooking the mating hooks together, then tightening the loop by pulling the rope through the racheting pulleys. My wife would pull the front shell downward and I'd tighten the ropes. Even when pulled down as tight as this setup allowed, we were never able to eliminate the gap between front and rear shells; there was always a gap of about 1" between them.  It worked without any problems all the way home, however.

I phoned the TM Factory earlier this week but never did connect with Donny Pilkey, who is the repair guru at TM. Jimmy Davis told me that the aluminum tube was cemented to the inner and outer aluminum sheets. The stress of having to hold down both upper and lower shells on that side was too great for the adhesive bond, it appears, and, the tube pulled away from the wall. When I do get to speak to Donny, I'll find out what kind of glue the Factory uses to bond tube to wall. In addition to gluing the tube to the inner and outer sheets, I've been thinking of fastening the tube to the outer sheet with monel pop rivets. Lack of access won't allow me to pop rivet the inner sheet to the tube. I may weld a 1/4" thick bar over the top of the tube, where the latch pin bracket is located, before I reglue it into the wall. This will not only reinforce the tube, keeping it from cracking a second time, but also make for a very substantial thickness of metal where the machine screws are inserted to hold the latch pin bracket. Another option I've considered would be to replace the aluminum tube with a square steel tube. The latch pin bracket would really hold securely in a steel tube - but it may make the shell too heavy. I'll have to ask Donny about that. Whatever repair I end up doing, I've vowed that the latch pin brackets will never come loose again! It also seems time for me to replace the latches with the heavy-duty ones that are installed on the later models of TMs.

I've got my work cut out for me. Stay tuned for the next part of this saga. Sorry about my long windiness.

Happytrails
09-14-2002, 04:18 PM
Larry, you've contributed a lot to this board, we're just all people, and any experiances good or bad are helpful for everyone. I'd have to say that's about all I have left is putting in the hold down latches in my old TM and I'm done......I would have earlier, but the screws were too small that I got, so I bought new ones, but it was raining today so didn't mess with it. Your idea about the ropes is interesting, I was thinking about buying a strap to hold my stuff down....one of those racheting kinds anyway just to be sure. If ya email me a pic at [email protected] I'd be happy to give you my take on you're problem with the aluminum coming outta place.

Happytrails.........

oilspot
09-16-2002, 08:02 AM
Last time I used one, I borrowed it from a friend at a body shop.... to attach a roof rack to my old Bronco II.

Always wanted to purchase one but couldn't justify it until now.

I planned to purchase mine from J.C. Whitney.  I think they had two kits (economy and delux?)  The econcomy had a manual install tool which used wrenches to twist a screw and expand the rivet-nut.  The delux had a tool similar to what I borrowed, which expands the rivet-nut similar to the way a pop-rivet gun works.

The kit didn't seem to expensive...