Present Solar Option?

[Casey Freswick]

Is this a good option to go solar?

I have 150 AMP (More like 100 AMP) lithium battery with a much bigger inverter, TM is locked up right now, I think it is a 3000 watt. Rewired everything with heavy duty wiring. So here is the online option that I just saw:

https://www.campingworld.com/nature-power-440-watt-complete-solar-kit-118822.html?cgid=solar

[Casey Freswick]

Here is another competing option:

https://www.renogy.com/400-watt-12-volt-solar-rv-kit/

[rickst29]

Is this a good option to go solar?

I have 150 AMP (More like 100 AMP) lithium battery with a much bigger inverter, TM is locked up right now, I think it is a 3000 watt. Rewired everything with heavy duty wiring. So here is the online option that I just saw:

https://www.campingworld.com/nature-power-440-watt-complete-solar-kit-118822.html?cgid=solar
That one comes with an under-powered inverter (which you have absolutely no use for). It also comes with a no name 'el-cheapo' PWM powewr converter, leaving a about 25% of the panel power in the panels,. A PWM controller is unable to use power which is delivered at higher voltage than the batteries. (The panels are probably around 18.5 volts, your batteries can't be subjected to more than about 14.2 volts. That's about 75% efficient).

Your one small battery maybe doesn't justify a the Solar Convert upgrade, but another battery could maybe make use of that last 25%. (You're lost efficiency with this controller on 4 panels is roughly equal to the full output of one panel, although the "wasted power" is occurring on all 4 panels equally.) Under clouds, you still lose 75%.

I'd buy 4 panels (less than $100 each), interconnect wire and mounting for maybe $80, and spend the remainder on a better "MPPT" type solar controller.

[rickst29]

Here is another competing option:

https://www.renogy.com/400-watt-12-volt-solar-rv-kit/

This one also comes with a cheap PWM controller. Their panels are OK, I have a bigger one (200W). Renogy makes an MPPT controller, but it's not a good one - lots of equipment have been reported on the DIY Solar Forum.

When anyone says "Renogy" on that forum , knowldegable replies usually say that "friends don't let friends buy renogy". But you could buy this kit, and wait to replace the solar Charge controller until, when you're adding another battery.

[Casey Freswick]

So if I put together my own do you recumbent 200 panels. Here is another option. do you have a recommendation.

https://www.newpowa.com/new-200w-monocrystalline-12v-solar-panel/



This one also comes with a cheap PWM controller. Their panels are OK, I have a bigger one (200W). Renogy makes an MPPT controller, but it's not a good one - lots of equipment have been reported on the DIY Solar Forum.

When anyone says "Renogy" on that forum , knowldegable replies usually say that "friends don't let friends buy renogy". But you could buy this kit, and wait to replace the solar Charge controller until, when you're adding another battery.

[Casey Freswick]

It seems to me that Solar panels and lithium batteries are cheaper than a year ago when almost everything else is way more.

[rickst29]

So if I put together my own do you recumbent 200 panels. Here is another option. do you have a recommendation.

https://www.newpowa.com/new-200w-monocrystalline-12v-solar-panel/
If they can be made to fit on the roof, 200w panels always weigh less than two 100w panels built with the same glass, because the wattage (area) grows faster than the circumference (The length of heavy aluminum framing). The weight of the junction box and extension cables is virtually unchanged.

9BB cells are the current state of the art for lower-powered panels. These panels would be an excellent choice, but they should be wired in series with an MPPT Solar Charge controller, at much HIGHER Solar Charge Controller cost than a cheap but power-wasting PWM-type SCC.

If used with a PWM, they would have to be wired in parallel. High current (up to 10.76A each under 'nearly perfect, very bright' sunlight conditions, 21.5A total) would require that the solar cables down the shell and lift arms (into the TM and solar controller) be more expensive 10-AWG, rather than the usual 12-AWG. 12-AWG is not rated for more than 20A maximum. And of course, your PWM controller would refuse to accept about 25% of the power from the panels.

Correctly wired in Series for an MPPT controller, two panels together would run at 18.6 * 2 = 37.2 volts, with a maximum voltage of 21.8 * 2 = 43.6 volts. That is easy for a "100 volt" MPPT controller to handle. In series, the CURRENT from the pair is only the smaller of the two panels - if both are under great sunlight, that's 10.76 Amps.

10.76 amps is an easy load an 12-AWG solar wires, and 14-AWG solar wires would also be OK.

[rickst29]

You need 30A output capability and 100 volt input voltage limit. The highest quality would be this one, it can be monitored and configured from a cellphone app. https://www.victronenergy.com/solar-charge-controllers/smartsolar-100-30-100-50. It's only issue is hard-to-use wire connectors, which are limited to small wire sizes. (Both the solar ports and the and more important battery connectors, which carry higher current at lower voltage).

It is on sale from many places, nearly always at list price $226.10. DO NOT confuse "SmartSolar" with the cheaper "BlueSolar" units, the "BlueSolar" products cannot be monitored and configured from a cellphone. Among the list price sellers, I would choose battleborn, but that's a personal preference.
- - -
Cheap ones: Do not buy a Renogy MPPT at any price. Do not buy an EpEver Tracer "AN" model at any price.

The EpEver Tracer3215BN, a superior discontinued product, costs quite a bit less than the Victron when you can find it. But it can only be configured and monitored by an add-on MT-50 pushbutton wired "remote" (nothing via cellphone). I have owned on of those for many years, handling slightly more panel power than you are considering.

The EpEver TRION is an option, again requiring the MT-50. Internally, it is not as good as the older BN3215. The discontinued 'XTRA' is not as good as the Trion, but probably still reliable enough. They're cheap, I see one on Ebay for $109 (although the seller has a pretty bad rating, could be a BIG problem if it doesn't work).

In any use of an EpEver controller, the SCC should be programmed with complicated "User" battery parameters, because their provided "Lithium - LFP" charge settings sdt bulk charge voltage too high (14.5 volts). If you don't want to waste at least 2 hours in pushing buttons to program the darn thing in an extremely finicky sequence of changes, you'll want to avoid the EpEver controllers. A few of the more recent EpEver controllers can connect BlueTooth interfaces, but their cellphone apps are worthless.

[Wavery]

So if I put together my own do you recumbent 200 panels. Here is another option. do you have a recommendation.

https://www.newpowa.com/new-200w-monocrystalline-12v-solar-panel/

I agree 100% with everything Rick said.

Newpowa has an excellent 2000W pure sine wave inverter at a very competitive price. We had ours for over 3-years.

I'd stay away from anything labeled Renogy.

I have 4, 100W solar panels (230AH LFP battery) on our TM only because I couldn't fit a 200W on my rear shell because of a 14"x14" roof vent smack in the middle. Whatever you get, it's best to match panels.

We just spent 5-days in the desert and never touched the generator. We kept track of our microwave and drip coffee pot usage. Avg 22 minutes a day on the microwave (Easter weekend). and 3 pots of coffee a day. We also have a 110V 4.5 Cu ft fridge. It was cold at night so we ran the furnace every night.

The battery was 100% by noon each day and 75% by midnight. The lowest that I read was 55% at 7:AM (before the Sun had any effect on the solar).

[rich2468]

Casey,
Adding to what Rick has already shared....

In the future, if lithium iron phosphate battery prices continue to drop and you want (and have the space and torsion bar assist strength) to add additional solar panels (on your other shell or a via separate suit case solar panel set up)- you could possibly add an additional (second) Victron MPPT solar controller.

Victron SmartSolar MPPT controllers can wirelessly connect to one another (and Victron's bluetooth enabled battery monitor/shunts) to work together to more effectively charge your batteries.

I'm not aware of any other brands which currently have that capability.




Rich and Lynn
2021 2922KB

[Casey Freswick]

The particular panels I was looking at are 55.28 x 27.76 inches. If I put them on the rear shell they will hang over about 10". That does not seem to be a good option. So is my only option the front shell? Or get a different dimension solar panel.

[Wavery]

The particular panels I was looking at are 55.28 x 27.76 inches. If I put them on the rear shell they will hang over about 10". That does not seem to be a good option. So is my only option the front shell? Or get a different dimension solar panel.

Hanging over is not harmful in itself but you would have to be very careful backing. If you accidently back into something (even slowly), it could do a lot of damage to your roof.

Before you decide on a panel, get the weight from the website. Put that much weight on the roof, then open the roof to see if that weight works for you.

If the weight is too much, you may be able to adjust the torsion bars. You may want to do that with the weight on the roof before you order panels. There may not be any adjustment left.

[rich2468]

Everyone's installation will be unique (depending on TM shell size, roof obstructions, weight/ amount of torsion bar assist available, budget, and the amount of solar charging wattage desired)- but to address your immediate statement/ question: I would not want anywhere near 10 inches of solar panel overhang.

That much would likely interfere with use of a cover and could become of concern during high wind days. Additionally, I'd be concerned with where the mounting points would lie on your rear shell. The shells have a centerline peak, as well as rounding towards the rear.

For my 2922KB, I overcame the slope/ curvature issues by building an aluminum rail mount for my solar panel array, but I don't think that approach would make sense for TM's with smaller rear shells (or older torsion bars without additional weight capacity).

My rear shell solar array hangs over the rear about 4" which is about as far as I think is practical in most cases.

Rich and Lynn
2021 2922KB

[Casey Freswick]

I was pretty sure my overhang was a bad idea, now I know. :). So here is my next option. Thanks for letting me run my ongoing internal debate with you all.

My main objective is related to my 20 year old 3 way fridge. If propane is how it should work best it is hardly working at all. Cost for new 3 way fridge is getting very expensive. It would be cheaper get a 4.5 cu ft 110 fridge running off of my 3000 watt inverter. The fridge draws about 300-500wh per day. (My 200W solar panels supplement about 800-1200wh per day: Wavery). So If I got 3 100 panels they would fit on the back shell (100 watt 12 volt. Product dimensions: 980 x 530 x 30mm (38.58 x 20.87 x 1.18 in). I am convinced that this would also give me plenty of solar power for my needs.

I would assume my best option for a controller would still be the one recommended by rickst29 (You need 30A output capability and 100 volt input voltage limit. The highest quality would be this one, it can be monitored and configured from a cellphone app. https://www.victronenergy.com/solar-...-100-30-100-50.)

One other plus, at this moment newpowa is selling 100 watt panels for $88.

https://www.newpowa.com/100w-monocrystalline-12v-solar-panel/?gclid=CjwKCAjwitShBhA6EiwAq3RqAynXAl45sh9WKDigAnw vtRE1z_nXJxAOOmm0BIfuqA3GXLcyy30AXhoCKJgQAvD_BwE

[rickst29]

The "new and little one" supports the 200W panel on the rear shell. That panel is mounted with the length going street side to curb side, because a 2619 rear shell has only about 30" of shell roof sticking out in closed position.

The solar controller for the "tiny" rear shell handles only my single 200w panel. That SCC is hidden in under-the-bathtub-ledge space, next to the WFCO. (I hope to never see it again.) I have the solar wires coming down the street side rear lift arm, all by themselves.

My larger front shell solar controller handle the other panels, all on the front shell. On a really great day they can reach around 450 watts at "noon".

My rear shell mounting of a solid panel SIDEWAYS had issues.

The far rear roof line of the shell, just above the bend, has only a slight incline from the street side and curb side edges. With extra layers of VHB tape in the rear corner mounts, I was able to make decent contact with 4 mounts along the TM back edge.

But the "front long side" of long aluminum+glass mounted this way has to mount flat over a much more curved section of roof,so I used only 2 mounts for the front "long side" of my panel (in the shadow of he front-panel mounted Air Conditioner).

This is much weaker than my flex panel mounts, but I do not anticipate any issues. (I taped down all of my flex panels around the entire perimeter, with gaps, using 4-6x more VHB surface area than the six Z brackets provide.)

A pair of mounting bars, crossing the full width of the panels plus a couple of extra inches on either side, could also have a lot more contact areas with the roof. But I have no idea where to buy only 6 feet of such mounting at low cost.

[Casey Freswick]

I made the decision. I already already have a lithium battery. I have a 1500 watt inverter. I already wired an inverter powered 120 Amp plug on the refrigerator wall. So I removed my 3 way refrigerator and purchased a Magic Chef 4.4 cu. ft. Mini Fridge in Stainless Look from Home Depot for $200 (originally $250, but I get 10% military discount and the box was torn so they took off another $25). I thought these were the best dimensions of any fridge that I saw. I had to cut some trim away on the side and top. I then secured the fridge with foam insulation and a 4" wood bolt through the frame at the back. I am sure this will not move. I purchased 3 100 watt solar panels for $72 each and also a controller for about $250. Solar powered electric refrigerator way cheaper than a $1,350 3 way fridge and much more versatile.

[Casey Freswick]

the fridge draws 70 watts, so I figure I have about 24 hours of battery power without any solar. Under most conditions it should work. But I will find out in the coming months.

[Wavery]

the fridge draws 70 watts, so I figure I have about 24 hours of battery power without any solar. Under most conditions it should work. But I will find out in the coming months.

What battery(s) do you have?

[Casey Freswick]

I have 1 150 Amp lithium battery, But I think it is more like a 100 AMP. I estimate the fridge will run for about 24 hours with no recharge at all. I also have a generator that can run my AC. I like to be prepared for boon docking, dispersed camping, but in reality do camp most often in state campgrounds with electric hook up. But not always.

[Wavery]

I have 1 150 Amp lithium battery, But I think it is more like a 100 AMP. I estimate the fridge will run for about 24 hours with no recharge at all. I also have a generator that can run my AC. I like to be prepared for boon docking, dispersed camping, but in reality do camp most often in state campgrounds with electric hook up. But not always.
I was actually curious about the brand battery. I'm also curious about your inverter. If your inverter is not "Pure sinewave", your fridge won't last long. It must have a pure sine wave inverter. A modified sinewave inverter will also draw more wattage from your battery.

You have plenty of battery and solar (for your stated usage). As long as you have the appropriate size wiring and proper fuse protection, you should be good on all but the days with bad cloud cover. Try to find campsites without trees. Shading can be a real issue.

The other thing that you need to think about is your WFCO converter's battery charger. Be sure that it is set for AGM batteries (if possible on your model). You don't really need a charger made for lithium. However, you will need to run larger (pure copper) wiring from the charger to the battery.

The WFCO charger is really made for lead acid batteries. The max charge amperage of your WFCO may be 45A but it can only handle 45A (bulk charge rate) for a very short period of time before it switches to about 10-15A for the duration of the (absorption) charge. This works perfectly for L/A batteries but poses a stress issue on your charger with lithium batteries.

The lithium battery has little to no internal resistance and resistance is what tells your charger when to lower the charge rate amperage. If you use the WFCO charger to charge your lithium battery, the charger will run at full charge rate of nearly 45A for the duration of the charge. The WFCO charger just isn't designed to take that heat and it's life will be severely shortened.

You may want to consider changing the WFCO charger to a far superior Progressive Dynamics charger. It's a pretty EZ job and if you're interested, one of us (that have done it) can give you instructions.

[Casey Freswick]

Battery Brand: unbranded straw Chinese battery from the same company that Rick got his a lithium battery 2 years ago. Not totally pleased. But they did replace a battery that melted. (I think that was actually my fault, I had hot skin on my Trailmanor). Which I found with help from Rick and fixed.

Converter: PD 4655VL 55 Amp Converter Upgrade
switched to lithium.

All wiring is copper battery cable 6 gage wire except for a negative wire that is three strands of copper 20 Am 120 wire stripped and weaved together at the ends.

2 SCORPION® GDB10248G - One 1/0 Gauge Input and One 2/4 Gauge, Two 4 Gauge, Two 8 Gauge Outputs Gold Plated Ground Distribution Block more details on - https://www.carid.com/my-account/order-status/result/#

1500 watt pure sine wave inverter, I have used this with my computer numerous times.

Inverter generator

35 amp fuse that came with solar panels, a 80 amp circuit breaker from converter to battery, a 100 amp circuit breaker (I think) from battery to inverter, circuit breakers have shut off switches.

I am presently working on making a new panel with most of my wiring. I was not happy with my previous job and thought with the new solar addition I should reorganize my wiring.

I was blowing my 80 amp circuit breaker last fall between the converter battery charger and my batter. This is an issue I need to address before adding solar into the system. When using shore hook up everything works fine if I do not charge the battery. Need to check circuit breaker and battery charger. I am not planning on using solar and shore electric until I am sure everything is working. I am thinking of keeping both systems separate.

[Wavery]

Battery Brand: unbranded straw Chinese battery from the same company that Rick got his a lithium battery 2 years ago. Not totally pleased. But they did replace a battery that melted. (I think that was actually my fault, I had hot skin on my Trailmanor). Which I found with help from Rick and fixed.

Converter: PD 4655VL 55 Amp Converter Upgrade
switched to lithium.

All wiring is copper battery cable 6 gage wire except for a negative wire that is three strands of copper 20 Am 120 wire stripped and weaved together at the ends.

2 SCORPION® GDB10248G - One 1/0 Gauge Input and One 2/4 Gauge, Two 4 Gauge, Two 8 Gauge Outputs Gold Plated Ground Distribution Block more details on - https://www.carid.com/my-account/order-status/result/#

1500 watt pure sine wave inverter, I have used this with my computer numerous times.

Inverter generator

35 amp fuse that came with solar panels, a 80 amp circuit breaker from converter to battery, a 100 amp circuit breaker (I think) from battery to inverter, circuit breakers have shut off switches.

I am presently working on making a new panel with most of my wiring. I was not happy with my previous job and thought with the new solar addition I should reorganize my wiring.

I was blowing my 80 amp circuit breaker last fall between the converter battery charger and my batter. This is an issue I need to address before adding solar into the system. When using shore hook up everything works fine if I do not charge the battery. Need to check circuit breaker and battery charger. I am not planning on using solar and shore electric until I am sure everything is working. I am thinking of keeping both systems separate.
Sounds like a solid set up. Glad your inverter is pure sinewave.

How do you have your converter charger wired? I wired mine so that the Pos & neg leads (6G) off of the charger go directly to the battery busbars instead of going to the converter main board. IMO, going through the converter is not a good way to go and could be the problem that you have.

[Casey Freswick]

I was never satisfied with how I rewired everything when I upgraded to lithium. Wires were too short. connections pulled out. So while wiring my solar system I rewired everything. This is what is looks like now. I also hooked up a solar panel to test the system and it worked great. Thanks for all the suggestions on the right equipment. Changed battery option on my phone.

[Wavery]

I was never satisfied with how I rewired everything when I upgraded to lithium. Wires were too short. connections pulled out. So while wiring my solar system I rewired everything. This is what is looks like now. I also hooked up a solar panel to test the system and it worked great. Thanks for all the suggestions on the right equipment. Changed battery option on my phone.

I'm not sure where to start but I'm pretty sure that those orange cables are copper coated aluminum wires. If they are don't use them.

You really want to be sure that all of your cables are pure copper wire. Also, you would do well to invest in some tools for attaching lugs to your cables. It's important that the lugs are properly crimped onto the cable ends so that it equals one solid piece of copper. A hydraulic crimper is best. Here is an inexpensive tool that does a pretty good job.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07X2WS3L4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

[Casey Freswick]

Well, I am checking on the wire. I had some of this wire in my system before, yesterday I added another 8' to what I already had. Some of my ground negative wire is 20 AMP house wire weaved together.

My crimping tool is here:

[Casey Freswick]

Sounds like a solid set up. Glad your inverter is pure sinewave.

How do you have your converter charger wired? I wired mine so that the Pos & neg leads (6G) off of the charger go directly to the battery busbars instead of going to the converter main board. IMO, going through the converter is not a good way to go and could be the problem that you have.


Not sure what you mean by this. My wire goes out of the converter. But not sure what, "going through the converter is not a good way to go" means?

[Wavery]

Well, I am checking on the wire. I had some of this wire in my system before, yesterday I added another 8' to what I already had. Some of my ground negative wire is 20 AMP house wire weaved together.

My crimping tool is here:
Those crimpers aren't really made for electrical connectors. They may work well on certain specific wire but not so much on others.

Another thing that you might like to have is a ferrule kit with crimping tool. I love mine. They are a real game changer for smaller stranded wire (22G-7G). You strip off the appropriate amount of insulation then slip the ferrule over the wire and crimp it. No more struggling with lose wire ends. The ferrule makes a far superior connection.

If you use those twisted solid strand wires, it would be a good idea to either solder them at the end and/or use ferules.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B089X4TSFD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Wavery]

Not sure what you mean by this. My wire goes out of the converter. But not sure what, "going through the converter is not a good way to go" means?

Sorry, that was confusing.

The converter manufacturer wires the converter charger with the 12V output going directly to the converter's motherboard for distribution back to the battery and to the positive and negative busbars in the converter's power center for distribution to the fuse panels and the campers 12V appliances (lights, w/pump etc).

When you replace the converter's charger with a charger that will handle the high output that the lithium battery will demand, it's better to run 6 or 8G wire from the output of the charger directly to the battery. Then run (the existing) 10 or 12G wire from the battery back to the converter's busbars (instead of the converter's motherboard). That way, the motherboard will not be subjected to the heat and high amperage of the charger output going through it. The WFCO motherboard is not designed for a constant output of 55A from the charger and may (probably will) experience a premature burn out.

I hope all that makes sense.

[Wavery]

I was never satisfied with how I rewired everything when I upgraded to lithium. Wires were too short. connections pulled out. So while wiring my solar system I rewired everything. This is what is looks like now. I also hooked up a solar panel to test the system and it worked great. Thanks for all the suggestions on the right equipment. Changed battery option on my phone.

I'm a little confused about where all of those "PV" wires are coming from to your solar controller.

How many solar panels do you have? Are they matching panels. The wires from the panels should be tied together, either in series or parallel before coming into the camper.

I can help if you show me a pic of your exterior wiring on your solar panels.

[rickst29]

The issue presented in post #28 was already addressed by Casey, correctly:

The PD Converter output goes through the "el cheapo" 80A circuit breaker and into the "positive" distribution block, he does not have the PD converter going through the fuse board from a "Converter" terminal WFCO fuse board terminal to reach a "battery" terminal on the same board.

One of the two other leads leads from reaches the battery pack (somehow, not visible) and the other feeds the fuse board. I personally have dual 8-AWG stranded copper reaching into both of the larger ports on the WFCO fuse board, each fused at 40A, but that is not completely optimal. It is a compromise based on the expectation that fuse board might have trouble distributing a lot of power from a single port. An adequate single wire, perhaps AWG-6, would probably not fit into either of the terminals, and a nonstandard oversized ATC fuse would be needed on that port.

[rickst29]

There should probably not be multiple "battery+" wires from the solar controller, it appears to be abused as poorly implemented "additional power distribution block".

The "battery -" terminal needs to be connected to frame and battery grounding (at some busbar). If this is one lead from the Romex, don't do that - never use Romex in support of 12v.

[Casey Freswick]

I'm a little confused about where all of those "PV" wires are coming from to your solar controller.

How many solar panels do you have? Are they matching panels. The wires from the panels should be tied together, either in series or parallel before coming into the camper.

I can help if you show me a pic of your exterior wiring on your solar panels.

The problem here is depth perception. There are only 4 wires going into the solar controller. 2 from the panel and 2 directly to the battery. OH and one wire going to ground: So 5 wires. The other wires are behind the controller.

[Casey Freswick]

I'm not sure where to start but I'm pretty sure that those orange cables are copper coated aluminum wires. If they are don't use them.

"You really want to be sure that all of your cables are pure copper wire. Also, you would do well to invest in some tools for attaching lugs to your cables. It's important that the lugs are properly crimped onto the cable ends so that it equals one solid piece of copper. A hydraulic crimper is best. Here is an inexpensive tool that does a pretty good job."

I bought my wire from a auto parts store, battery cable wire. It is 4G wire, strands of copper. It is not one solid copper wire. I think that this should work. I have 20 amp house wire for my main wire for grounding into the frame to my negative block. I will change all those to a solid wire. Thanks for sharpening my attempt at wiring.

[Casey Freswick]

My crimper says it is for swags, ferrules and stops. It has a lot of pressure and I think it works. I actually have a box of small ferrule but never used them. I need to get the crimper tool for that. So I will start using them in the future. Thanks for the heads up.

[Bill]

I bought my wire from a auto parts store, battery cable wire. It is 4G wire, strands of copper. It is not one solid copper wire. ... I have 20 amp house wire for my main wire for grounding into the frame to my negative block. I will change all those to a solid wire.Pure copper is not the same as solid copper, of course. I'm not sure you could hand-bend 4G solid copper.

Bill

[Casey Freswick]

Pure copper is not the same as solid copper, of course. I'm not sure you could hand-bend 4G solid copper.

Bill

I did not intend to use the word "pure" in a technical way. I asked if it was copper wire and not a copper coated wire and they said it was copper. It is not one solid wire, it is multiple wires. It says 4G on the wire. I will also not be used between the battery and inverter. I will use 2 2/0 copper wire (multi strands) from batter to both positive and negative poles on my inverter. Will be attaching solar panels today. They came with their own wiring and a 4 to 1 harness. Will take a picture when I am finished.

[Casey Freswick]

I have finished wiring my new solar system. Everything is working great. Here is a picture of my completed panel.

[Wavery]

I have finished wiring my new solar system. Everything is working great. Here is a picture of my completed panel.

I would recommend NOT putting multiple wires on a singe connector. This is especially true on the inverter. You might want to have a dedicated ground busbar and a dedicated positive busbar. Have a single 2/0 wire going from the battery pos to the pos busbar and a single 2/0 wire from the battery to the neg busbar. Then run a single 2/0 cable from each busbar to your inverter. Run all of your ground wires (singly) to an empty port on the ground busbar and the same with the positive busbar.

The optimum system will have only 1 wire on any singe terminal with the odd exception of 2 (smaller) wires on one terminal. What you have going on, on your inverter may cause you problems down the road. You will certainly have a lack of continuity and an increase of heat and corrosion.

You might want to try to find busbars (sometimes called "Distribution Blocks") like these. Be sure they are rated 250A.

https://www.amazon.com/Hoteam-Distribution-Marine-Terminal-Connecting/dp/B0BYMRYSS5/ref=sr_1_18?crid=V8MNQILSTD1L&keywords=power+distribution+block&qid=1684595139&sprefix=power+distribution+block%2Caps%2C185&sr=8-18

[Bill]

Wavery -

Full agreement on the bus bar thing.

If I were doing this - and I'm not! - and especially if I am adding bus bars, I would add one thing. Some kind of electrical insulation over all those exposed positive connections. Something as simple as a dropped screwdriver would most likely destroy the TM as it welded itself in place and started a fire that you can't put out. Insulation doesn't have to be elaborate or especially form fitting. A simple plastic box like a Rubbermaid refrigerator leftover box, trimmed to a useful shape with a utility knife, and tacked in place, would do it.

Bill

[Casey Freswick]

Just finished a week of camping. We were in a partially shaded area. By noon I had full sun. It was sunny most days. Although I had shore power, I used my 300 watt solar system. I wanted to monitor the system. My major electric use was my new Magic Chef 4.5 cubit foot electric fridge and 12 volt interior needs the whole week. My fridge runs at 70 watts an hour. It was hot and it ran a lot. My solar power charged the battery every day to 100% and everything worked great. The lowest my battery got was 49%. I have a 3000 watt inverter, 3 100 watt solar panels, 100 Amp lithium battery and a MPPT 100/30 Victron Energy Smart Solar controller and an additional battery monitor. Everything worked great. FYI when I "tested" my battery by boiling 1 liter of water, it drained 10% of my battery. My max solar charge was 250 watts per hour. My max charge for a day was 1.03 KWH. I am now wondering if I could have and should have put 4 100 panels on the back of the back shell. But I am confident that everything I have is working great.