Portable solar kit

[madizzy8]

Could someone recommend a solar power kit for our 2004 2720 sl? There are so many out there! How many watts? Also can adding a second battery help with dry camping? And last question for now is... if we don't go the solar route, how can we charge up the battery? With the tv? How long does that take. Newbies here. still learning.

[Redtail Cruiser]

Madiizzy, do you have budget in mind ?

[madizzy8]

A BUDGET! But of course. Retirees here. would like to keep it under $500 but less is always better. Is that possible? I am an Amazon shopper. I saw quite a few there but not sure if they would work with our camper. Thanks for any help.

[LoveToCamp]

First, determine if you want monocrystalline, or polycrystalline (http://www.civicsolar.com/resource/monocrystalline-vs-polycrystalline-solar-panels) panels. Mono cost more, but are more efficient.

I can't recommend portable kits, as I only have a single 100w panel mounted on my roof. It recharges my batteries daily, even with canopy (camping in the Rocky Mountains, which is different than the tree canopy of the east).

I camped three years with only one battery and one panel. We went 7 nights several times with no shortage of power. But, I installed LED bulbs, and we didn't waste power.

I now have a second battery, unintentionally. Should never be short of power. If you don't have a way to re-charge (I see many discourage using TV to recharge, as it is very inefficient), two batteries will likely die within 10 days.

You should be able to get a portable kit for much less than $500, with at least 120w of output. That should keep you powered as long as you want, unless you are always in heavy shade.

I like my mounted panel, as I don't worry about it walking off. Nor do I have to aim it several times a day. It depends on where you camp, if a mounted panel will work well for you. I love having solar, as I don't worry about state of charge.

[madizzy8]

Thank you LovetoCamp. Good info. I will look for a 120w portable or roof mounted. I like the idea of being able to park our trailer in the shade but charge in the sun. That is why I prefer portable. My husband agrees with you. As far as changing bulbs to led. Is that just actually switching out all the bulbs in trailer? Or do we need to install special lights that will accept LED? Maybe a dumb question but we are new to all of this.

[Bill]

LED bulbs are wonderful, but tend to be expensive. You don't have to switch out all of them, of course. Just switch out as many as you choose (maybe half?), and keep track of the ones you switched so you use only those.

Open up each candidate fixture, remove the bulb, and read the bulb type. Then order LED replacements for that type. They should be an easy direct replacement.

Bill

[Padgett]

You are on the right track but first you need to make a list of what you need to be able to do and for how long ?

I agree that changing out the bulbs for leds is a good idea but would just start with the interior lights and not the fluorescents.

I bought four of these (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009YKQR2C)for the patio lights and ten of these (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LEBLI82) for the interior lights.

After my last trip which did not go well, I replaced a failing grp 29 with two GC2 batteries and added two 100W monocrystaline panels from Renogy (http://www.renogy-store.com) which fit nicely on the rear module over the bed (three would have fit but I had two). For now a PWM controller (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MB0N8K6)seems adequate.

This is still a work in progress but seems to suit my 2720SL nicely with batteries, controller, DC circuit breakers and generator all fitting in the rear storage compartment.

I also carry a generator for the AC (Florida) and have been working to find a configuration that will start reliably on a 2000W (peak) Honda. My results to now have been promising but mixed.

Having a generator also means you can suppliment the solar with about an hour of generator to recharge the batteries.

[rickst29]

Then I recommend 2*100 Watt panels on the roof. For the lowest possible price, you probably can't beat this 'WindyCity' Kit:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/COMPLETE-KIT-200-Watt-200W-Poly-Solar-Panel-12V-24V-Battery-RV-Boat-Off-Grid/251419849809
But it is polycrystalline, which requires slightly more size and weight to achieve the same rating as equivalent mono panels.

Among TM owners, WindyCity and Renogy seem to be the most popular EBay sellers. If you buy a Renogy kit, be sure to get the upgraded controller (their cheapest controller runs positive-ground ONLY, while RVs, cars, and boats are almost universally built negative-ground.) Although I'm recommending a WIndyCity kit, I personally bought Renogy, and it's been great. Outside of EBay, Arizona Wind and Sun has a great product lineup, equally good prices, and also a superb set of informational web pages. They've also got a good forum.

If you stay with only a single battery, calculate your AH requires carefully to make sure that you can stay above 50% charge while enjoying your outing. If you can do that, then a single panel in the 120-130W range is probably sufficient.

[Padgett]

BTW Renogy also is available on Amazon but I bought direct. 10% off sales with free shipping are fairly common.

Also they seem to have a different controller now with a display instead of lights. PWM controllers are in the $30-$40 range.

Might mention that to mount on the rear module (shade over the bedroom), 48" long is a max.

ps the self tapping screws in the Renogy starter kit are about 1/4" too long (don't ask). Are several threads on better ways to mount but something in the Florida air seems to eat tape in a few years.

ps: if you really want something portable, see here (http://www.renogy-store.com/Renogy-100W-12V-Mono-Portable-Solar-Suitcase-p/kit-stcs100d.htm).

[tentcamper]

Charging battery with TV: I find that if I use good jumper cables directly from The TV battery to the camper battery it takes about 45 minutes to get it back up to about 85 - 90%. You need to run the TV so the alternator is running.

First I would change all the lights bulbs to LED's we did it for around $5 per bulb. Second I would do some dry camping and figure out what your power needs are. Monitor your battery voltage. Bring some jumper cables as you are learning. There is no one answer for the number of batteries/solar panel size that is right for all.

We conserve our battery. Without solar; We can camp with one large group 31 battery for 6+ days and have gone as long as 9 days. In the heating season we get 2+ nights.

We have a 80W Portable solar kit to extend our cold weather camping nights before we need to re-charge. I think that 80W is the minimum I would get for a trailer. I got the 80W because it would fit in a large 24" pizza delivery bag and the size makes it easy to stowaway. The 100W was to large for the bag. My 80W is actually 2-40W panels. Have not fully tested it in heating season, but it looks like it will take me to 4+ nights for average solar day in my area. If all days are sunny, I will never need to re-charge.

Rule of thumb is 100W of solar panel per each 100 AH of battery.

[madizzy8]

RENOGY® 100W Monocrystalline Foldable Solar Suitcase Kit by Renogy
RENOGY® 100W Monocrystalline Foldable Solar Suitcase Kit
by Renogy
Link: http://amzn.com/B00HR8YNK6
thinking about this one with controller. Would I need an upgraded controller with this one?

Also have question about using trickle charger at home. Can we attach to battery as is or do we need to remove battery first?

[madizzy8]

Padgett, I think you and I both like the same portable Renogy? Thank you all for your help. Any thing is welcome. We know very little. Thought we knew more before we purchased this!

[madizzy8]

thank you tentcamper. that helps a lot!

[Bailey'sMom]

I already have the 80 watt rooftop solar panel, but would like to add more. Is it possible to use a portable panel such as the Renogy at the same time as the hard wired existing solar?

If so, do you just connect it to the battery directly?

[Padgett]

Pretty sure they have diodes to prevent reverse if used two in parallel.

Amazon is about $15 more expensive today than direct from Renogy who also gives free shipping.

I generally remove batteries and put on trickle but with AC there is really no down season here.

[rickst29]

I already have the 80 watt rooftop solar panel, but would like to add more. Is it possible to use a portable panel such as the Renogy at the same time as the hard wired existing solar?

If so, do you just connect it to the battery directly?
Yes, as long as you buy the version WITH the built-in Solar Controller.

[TM Pilot]

RENOGY® 100W Monocrystalline Foldable Solar Suitcase Kit by Renogy
RENOGY® 100W Monocrystalline Foldable Solar Suitcase Kit
by Renogy
Link: http://amzn.com/B00HR8YNK6
thinking about this one with controller. Would I need an upgraded controller with this one?

Also have question about using trickle charger at home. Can we attach to battery as is or do we need to remove battery first?

As Padgnett observed, this unit is on sale ($15 off) till Father's Day (June 21, 2015) or while supplies last for $265 + Free Shipping on Renogy's website (not Amazon): http://www.renogy-store.com/Renogy-100W-12V-Mono-Portable-Solar-Suitcase-p/kit-stcs100d.htm
Renogy doesn't have sales very often. Had my eye on this unit for a while. This unit is the best quality portable/foldable solar panel in this price range. Just purchased one. Other brands of comparable quality will be $350-500.

[RottieMom]

Madizzy, Bill provided me with guidance on how to connect Bargman to a battery tender and that seems to work great. When my TM is garaged, I just keep the Bargman connected to battery tender and battery is charged up.

[flipflop]

Thanks to all for the info. I ordered the Renogy 100W folding panel because of the foldout base. Pricey with a 40A MPPT charge controller and tray cables, but pay once instead of paying for an upgrade later. 20x27x3 inches folded it can go in the trailer when traveling.

I looked at Nature Power folding panels, but while they fold up smaller they only have the O-ring mounting points.

[tentcamper]

Congratulations on your new panels. If you install LED lights I think they shoud work well for you.

I have been testing our 80W panels this fall. Some of the nights the temps dropped to the high 30's and the DW at night likes the camper in the high 60's. So we ran our furnace. My best estimate is we use about 15-20 amps a day. We only use power for lights, furnace, water pump, water heater.

I think the folding panels work great for our needs. I was thinking about the difference between portable and permanent this last time out and doing some simple tests. My conclusion; I need to get the right angle and out of the shade. Permanent mounted panels; I would need 250-300 watts of panels for our area to do what my 80 W panel does in the sun and at the right angle.

We only need panels in the spring and fall during the heating season. Other non-heating seasons we can go 6+ days off one fully charged battery. We are in Ohio and being east of the Mississippi have shade in most CS we camp at.

On sunny days, in the fall we need about a 50 degree angle. This produces about 4.8 amps. When I dropped it to 30 degrees it read about 3.2 amps and flat it read about 1.5 amps. When the panels was in the shade and at 50 degrees I was seeing less then 1 amp. I have found I need to move the panels 3-4 times a day to stay in the sun or keep them facing the sun.

My cables have a reach of about 35 feet. My cable design was made from 2 - 30 amp, 10 gage extension cords. A 25' I carry in the camper for shore power extension and a 10' The 10' cord I cut in half and connect via quick disconnect connectors to the panel and the other piece to the battery. The pre-molded 30 amp plugs, plug into my 25' cord. My PWM controller is at the panels.

[BrucePerens]

The LED panels I bought on eBay are $18 for 10, work really well inside of the trailer and stick inside the fixture with double-sided tape, and aren't excessively bright for the application (which some of the more expensive ones will be). I put a photo below, you can find one eBay seller here (http://www.ebay.com/itm/10x-Xenon-White-48-SMD-LED-Panel-Interior-Dome-Map-Light-1156-BA15S-T10-Adapter-/251756331822?hash=item3a9dd8c32e:g:-UgAAOSwaNBUjVsW&vxp=mtr). These work just fine.

You may, however, find it necessary to replace your converter if you have an old one. The old one had poor regulation, and this tends to make some LEDs go out or blink. If you buy expensive lamps with built-in-regulators, and they really work, they might not have that problem. But I had electronics that would be more sensitive than the LEDs, and the same bad regulation tends to cook your battery.

I put 400W of panels on the rear of my TM and have room for 200W in the front. This is rather extreme, but the truth is that in many cases you get 1/4 of the rated power without obstruction, if you are heavily shaded you 5% of the rated power, and I'm a ham radio operator and have a use for the power.

[flipflop]

Congratulations on your new panels. If you install LED lights I think they shoud work well for you. . . . . .

My PWM controller is at the panels.

Well, got the 100W suitcase, ordered a 40A MPPT controller separately. https://www.renogy.com/renogy-40-amp-commander-mppt-solar-charge-controller-w-mt-50/#tab_prd-specs

Did not realize there was such a size/weight difference between the MPPT and the 30A PWM that would be preinstalled inside the case. MPPT 6.39lbs, PWM .6lbs.

The MPPT will fit inside the suitcase and it will close, but my plan to use Velcro to mount it inside may not work because of the weight.

Has anybody Velcro mounted an MPPT???

[scrubjaysnest]

Well, got the 100W suitcase, ordered a 40A MPPT controller separately. https://www.renogy.com/renogy-40-amp-commander-mppt-solar-charge-controller-w-mt-50/#tab_prd-specs

Did not realize there was such a size/weight difference between the MPPT and the 30A PWM that would be preinstalled inside the case. MPPT 6.39lbs, PWM .6lbs.

The MPPT will fit inside the suitcase and it will close, but my plan to use Velcro to mount it inside may not work because of the weight.

Has anybody Velcro mounted an MPPT???

Unless you ordered the remote temperature sensor, the CC needs to be mounted as close to the batteries as possible or you lose any benefit gained from the mppt.

[flipflop]

Unless you ordered the remote temperature sensor, the CC needs to be mounted as close to the batteries as possible or you lose any benefit gained from the mppt.

Thanks for the info, didn't know about that remote sensor. I suppose for $10 I'll order one. I'll have the panel right by the tongue battery box though, we're never in shaded areas. About three feet away, maybe.

I AM a little worried about rain getting to the MPPT unit being mounted on the back of the panel. I believe the PWM is waterproof, the MPPT is not? Correct?

Well, here's what I have planned. I plan to get the 10AWG quick disconnects for the battery connection as was discussed here a few minutes ago http://www.trailmanorowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11065&page=6

The MPPT end of the quick disconnect will be a bare wire screwdown connection as you can see here https://www.renogy.com/renogy-40-amp-commander-mppt-solar-charge-controller-w-mt-50/

I'll use dielectric on all of the screwdown connections. Three 2" strips of Velcro should hold the 6lb CC on the back of the panel.

I'll put plumbers strap from the panel frame to the CC's top mount holes to make sure it doesn't fall off if the Velcro fails for some reason.