New Solar Install

[Padgett]

Know there is a thirteen page intro to solar from 2013 but want to focus a little closer.

Have been acquiring stuff for a while, have two 100W mono panels from Renogy, a basic wiring kit to join the two plust 20' of hookup, and a little PWM Controller from Amazon with a LED readout. Just a basic set.

After trying a lot of configurations, longitudinal on top of the rear module seemed best. Overhangs just a little but above anyone's head and no higher than the front modue (and shielded by it when on the road).

Does rely on that end of the TM being in the sun but does also provide some shade (three panels would be better from that standpoint). Also even if only giving 60% that would be 10 amps at 12v.

The roof seems very thin & the #10 self drillng screws did now seem to get much grip so after washing the roof, I filled the area under the mounting foot with caulk and let the screws squish. Once dried that plus the screws should hold in place.

Next step is the wiring. Right now it is just hanging down on the street side. Any uggestions for routing ? Am thnking about some channel to the bottom of the module, across to the rear arm, down the arm and over to the frame, then up through the floor. Looks like an area above the rear 12v socket that would be close to the battery and not interfere with the folding bathroom walls.

Anyone have a better suggestion ?

[tentcamper]

I would check out this thread. It seems a lot of people have followed this method.

http://www.trailmanorowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11022&highlight=wayne+solar

[LoveToCamp]

I used a concealment strip like Wayne did in the referenced post. Got it at Home Depot. Adhesive back, then silicone along the edges, just because I go overboard.

Too late now, but I didn't drill any holes. I used 3M VHB tape, as most of the solar-installation threads recommend.

After running the channel down to the bottom of the shell, I used zip-ties to secure it to existing wire runs, and where there were none, I added the cable loops to the existing screws in the bottom of the shell. Very clean installation.

I have poly panel, and I get full battery charge daily, even without direct sun. You should do fine, but doesn't the entire mono panel have to be in the sun for good charging? Poly panels tolerate shade, I believe I have read. I am happy with my poly panel.

Will be interested to hear your experience after a few outings with varying shade situations. Enjoy no generator noise!

[Padgett]

I've used that strip before and suspect either HD or Lowes will have. Biggest issue is where to put the controller since would prefer somewhere I can read the display. Is also supposed to be bolted to a non flammable surface close to the battery.

My panels are monocrystalline since they seem to be better for Florida than poly panels. They seem to be larger than the ones people have used before.

Tomorrow I plan to install the GC2 batteries and the controller then run some tests prior to buttoming everything up.

[scrubjaysnest]

I used the Cord Mate II like Wayne. Ty-rap the wire to the rear arm with about a 6 inch loop at the shell edge. Did several opening closings to get the loop they way I wanted. The CC needs to be as close to the batteries as possible unless it has remote temp comp and voltage sensing. I ran 1X2 aluminum channel(like used in screen porches) across the wall about a foot above the batteries to mount the CC to. This also gives a good place to mount terminal strips, breakers, or fuse blocks.

Wire from the solar panel was routed through the a cord grip into the bumper and then through the floor into where the batteries are. A clamp for the wires
about a foot above the floor routes the wires well. Pvc was used to protect the wires going through the floor.

You can see the cc mounting and wiring here http://www.trailmanorowners.com/forum/showpost.php?p=126280&postcount=14

[Padgett]

Agree the panel needs to be close but would rather have it accessible from inside the TM. Also with the two new GC2s plus the generator for AC, it is a little crowded in there. Am a little concerned about 200 lbs (2 GC2s and the generator) essentially on the rear bumper but will need to see how it tows. Still need to figure out a battery enclosure.

[scrubjaysnest]

Harveyrv, Wayne, had a nice double battery box for the GC-2's on the tongue of the 2619 they had. Did a quick search but didn't come up with the thread the post was in with pics. The post said where he ordered it from.

[Padgett]

Problem is not finding a box. Problem is that there is no room for a box. The two GC2s slide in exactly & only movement possible is toward center, are wedged against walls on three sides.

Plan is to make tray from cookie sheet.

[Padgett]

OK Wiring is in place but not yet trimmed/concealed. Is enough to do load testing though.

1) Wired the WFO directly to the battery and PWM controller is in parallel.
2) Used the LOAD connection for the Inverter (is actually 800W surge, 400W continuous (http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=inverter)which should be enough.
3) Am getting charge from solar even when sun is behind cloud but cannot quantify yet. Seems to be at least 90W with cloud and over 160W in afternoon sun.
4) Decided to put controller in battery compartment to minimise lead lengths (under a foot)
5) There is a 3.5x5" aluminum plate behind the controller to dissipate heat
6) If all works out, the next step is to make pretty.
7) Am thinking about a male-male 120VAC jumper and plug inverter into 120v outlet next to WFO converter when dry camping to put 120VAC on all outlets. If I turn the WFO receptical breaker off, this should prevent any backing current through the on-board charger.

[scrubjaysnest]

Looks like your getting there, while making it pretty consider getting rid of the in line fuse holder and wire nut. This may already be on your to do list. They are know failure areas. The 400 watt inverter will need a 40 amp breaker or fuse. Just an FYI doing some load testing with our 400 watt inverter(83% eff) and with 12 feet of 10 awg, drawing 12 amps of load volts into the inverter was right at 11 with 12.7 at the batteries. Good example of why the inverter needs to be as close to the batts as possible with as large connecting wire as possible.

[Padgett]

On todo, already had one inline fuse holder, need two more. Runs are very short: less than a foot for the controller, about 18" for the inverter. Using 30A fuses since do not want to overload 30A controller.

Have a 1200W (continuous) inverter (been collecting things for "retirement" projects for a long time & RV had 1KW) but would need #8 wire and a direct connect to batteries, controller could not take load.

Some theories need testing but is evident that rear module of 2720 can take three 100W panels for about $550 DIY. Do need to be careful with screw length since roof appears to be only 1.5" thick (seems odd since most sun load would be on roof). Short spread bolts would be better.

[rickst29]

Know there is a thirteen page intro to solar from 2013 but want to focus a little closer.

Have been acquiring stuff for a while, have two 100W mono panels from Renogy, a basic wiring kit to join the two plust 20' of hookup, and a little PWM Controller from Amazon with a LED readout. Just a basic set.
After trying a lot of configurations, longitudinal on top of the rear module seemed best. Overhangs just a little but above anyone's head and no higher than the front modue (and shielded by it when on the road).
....
The roof seems very thin & the #10 self drillng screws did now seem to get much grip so after washing the roof, I filled the area under the mounting foot with caulk and let the screws squish. Once dried that plus the screws should hold in place.

Next step is the wiring. Right now it is just hanging down on the street side. Any uggestions for routing ? Am thnking about some channel to the bottom of the module, across to the rear arm, down the arm and over to the frame, then up through the floor. Looks like an area above the rear 12v socket that would be close to the battery and not interfere with the folding bathroom walls. Anyone have a better suggestion ?
Yes. I have an almost identical configuration. (same 2*100 panels from Renogy). IIRC, your batteries are in the rear, while mine are mounted on the tongue. So, if you have the room in the garage (which I don't) - your rear shell strategy might be good. In my config, the panels are both front-to-back on the front shell, with wires in what plastic "channels" along the front shell and down the street-side lift arm.

These "wire channels" are readily available at Home Depot: they're built for running power cords and Ethernet wires along office cubicles. But they've done a fine job for (1) routing form the panels (on the roof) to an area above the lift bar; (2) a corner piece for going from the horizontal to the vertical on the shell; (3) running down the vertical portion of the shell using a corner connector; and (4) another straight piece of channel, along the back side of the lift bar. I left a segment of about 7 inches "free", in open air, at each end of the lift bar to handle changes in length for shells up versus shells down.

But I think you've made a mistake in attaching the panels almost directly on to the roof. Being dark blue in color, they absorb a TON of heat, and the air space provided by using 4 or 6 of the traditional "Z Mount" brackets will prevent a lot of that from going directly into the TM. (With brackets, even slight wind takes the heat away. Heat is transferred by the aluminum brackets themselves, but I'll SWAG that it's far better than the situation you are building.) I strongly recommend VHB tape (EBay) for the connection of bracket bottom to TM roof, and 4 or 6 brackets per panel (Renogy sells the brackets, and people on EBay sell the double-sided VHB in small snippets which they cut from a $$$ full role.)

This Thread should be moved to 'Solar', where you'll find my "front shell installation" Thread and Pics.

[Padgett]

I am using the Z brackets (four on each panel for exactly that reason: raise the solar above the roof. (see the middle picture in post #1)

Also have the CableMate II kit from HD. My main issue is how to route the cable from the rear of the rear side window (not enough room in front when closed) to the leg so that it will not interfere or get scraped off when (un)folding. Any suggestions ?

[rickst29]

I can't advise about layout on a 2720, because I own just a 2619 (and they definitely wouldn't fit on my rear shell).

However, It's not too late to switch to VHB, because the tape will seal your screw holes. I fea that "Adhesive Caulk" will not hold over time - it will slowly dry out, weaken, loose flexibility, and develop tiny cracks due to TM vibration on the road. (Unless you used the 5200 or 4200 "boat sealant" stuff, which probably IS sufficient for a "glue with screws" scheme.) For reference, here's what HarveyRV advised me about using screws: http://www.trailmanorowners.com/forum/showpost.php?p=102561&postcount=9

He's right, and I followed his advice.

If you switch, here are some (long, complete) instructions:

Use a snap knife to cut the caulk and remove the panel (brackets still mounted). Buy 2 or 3 packs of this stuff (RP-32) from EBay, and re-cut to fit the bottom of the Z brackets: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-RP32-VHB-MOUNTINGTAPE-1-X-6-STRIPS-10-PER-PACK-WITH-EASY-RELEASE-LINER-/111660763957

RP-32 which I've pointed to is the "new-improved" version of the '4941' which HarveyRV used.

You don't need to fill the full width, which (in Renogy's Z brackets) is just a tiny bit wider than one inch - just snip to full length. I used a pair of 2" leftover cuts on several brackets - the stuff is so strong, and flexible, that there's no hint of separation between the two halves on Z-brackets where I used multiple pieces. (And I've driven to some crazy places since putting on panels, shaking the heck out of TM.)

And don't take off the 'protection film' from the TM-facing side before you're up on the roof, and have the panel situated exactly where you want it. After you've got it in place, lift each "long side" of the panel by placing a segment of 2x4 underneath. Then peel off the films. In a second step, I then replaced the 2x4s with 1/2" thick boards, so that panel was level and really close to TM roof; then I removed the 1/2" boards and pressed the Z brackets for a good seal.

If you're confident with what you've already done, feel free to ingore this. ;)

[scrubjaysnest]

I am using the Z brackets (four on each panel for exactly that reason: raise the solar above the roof. (see the middle picture in post #1)

Also have the CableMate II kit from HD. My main issue is how to route the cable from the rear of the rear side window (not enough room in front when closed) to the leg so that it will not interfere or get scraped off when (un)folding. Any suggestions ?
I used the Cord Mate II which is fairly flat, it over laps the bedroom window frame maybe a 1/16 inch and just misses to barley touches the bag seal. Did it the same way Harveyrv did. It also appears the factory is doing the same thing for rear mounted shells.
When you are at/near the bottom of the rear shell run enough Cord Mate II to reach the rear arm again look at Harveyrv's first pictures.
Run the wire under the shell edge and behind the arm leaving a loop of about 6 to 12 inches and use one ty-rap loosely and you can then run the shell up and down to size the loop. Once that is the way you like it you can get into the rear compartment a number of ways, underneath thru the black plastic with screen; the grounds are under this and it give access to the shower plumbing. This may be your best option because of your tight fit. You can also go through the floor by the batteries either side of the rear bumper.

[Padgett]

Could get three 100W panels on the rear roof by having the center one straddle the seam but two (200W total) seems a good fit to the two GC2s that just fit in the rear compartment.

BTW mine has a grommetted hole in the floor of the rear compartment just aft of the jack & brought the panel wires in there. Was able to keep all of the connecting wires short.