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Maxine_51334
03-26-2012, 06:13 PM
The TM came with solar panels. However I can't find any infomation with the paper work we got. How do I find out how big the panel is ? How to make sure it is working ?
How to run the panel ? The lights never get above good,never goes to charged. Have tried to run lights and such only lasts a short time.
I am not really sure how to do all this stuff so thanks for the help.:confused:

rumbleweed
03-26-2012, 06:36 PM
You should be able to get a part number off the back of the panel which you can look up on the web. I am assuming when you say lights never get above good, you are talking about some leds on the controller. What controller? From controller, you should be able to determine max capability of the system. If the battery has been sitting for a while or is old, it may not charge to the voltage necessary to cause the charged light to illuminate. When you say the lights only stay on for a a short while, I am assuming you are talking about the lights in the TM. This indicates a dying battery. You can try charging the battery using the on-board charger but my guess you might need a new battery especially if the battery is the original.

ZekenSpider
03-27-2012, 10:00 AM
The TM came with solar panels. However I can't find any infomation with the paper work we got. How do I find out how big the panel is ? How to make sure it is working ?
How to run the panel ? The lights never get above good,never goes to charged. Have tried to run lights and such only lasts a short time.
I am not really sure how to do all this stuff so thanks for the help.:confused:

Attached are the manuals and tech data for the factory installed solar equipment that came with our 2010 3326. Maybe it will be the same as or close to what you have. Our controller is mounted just to the left of the system monitor panel (below the sink) and the single solar panel is mounted on top of the rear shell.

Hope it helps.

Jerry

Maxine_51334
03-27-2012, 11:01 AM
Thanks for tbe Info !

Bill
03-27-2012, 11:24 AM
Jerry -

That is really good info. It should be useful as a general reference for anyone with a solar sytem, not just people with this specific one. Is it OK with you if I post it in the Technical Library, and mention your name as the contributor?

As far as Maxine's specifc questions go, I'll start by saying that I don't have this specific equipment, and I seldom use what I do have. But the first thing I would do is move the switch to the Array Current (Amperes) position, and sort of keep track of the reading. The array is expected to produce about 4.6 amps in bright overhead sun, and if this is the kind of reading you are getting, then the system is working. Remember that early in the day, or late in the day, or when the system is under cloud cover, or in shade (even a small amount), the output is expected to be reduced, often by a lot.

And remember that although 4.6 amps is useful, it isn't actually a whole lot. It isn't comparable to the 30-to-40 amps that the TMs converter/charger is capable of supplying, for example, so you shouldn't expect that result.

It is possible, but unlikely, that the end-of-charge set point is misadjusted. This is described in the instructions, but I wouldn't try to adjust it until you have exhausted everything else.

As noted in earlier posts, the most likely problems are either poor battery condition (age or low water level), or over-consumption (meaning consuming more battery charge than the array can replace in a given period of time). As an example of over-consumption, remember that each of the incandescent lights in the ceiling of the TM pulls almost 1.5 amps, so if you run 3 of them, they eat up everything the panel can provide, leaving nothing for battery charge.

Bill

scrubjaysnest
03-27-2012, 12:48 PM
As a suggestion, if your controller is the same as posted above set its output for 14.4 volts measured at the battery with full sun on the panel. If your battery is a pair of Trojan T105's the controller output needs to be set at 14.8 volts. If the battery is an Interstate marine then the controller needs to be set at 15.0 volts The last two settings are per the manufacture's web sites.

ZekenSpider
03-27-2012, 03:39 PM
Jerry -

That is really good info. It should be useful as a general reference for anyone with a solar sytem, not just people with this specific one. Is it OK with you if I post it in the Technical Library, and mention your name as the contributor?


Bill

Bill;

Yes it is OK to post it in the Library. Thanks for asking.

By way of a reminder (since this subject is pretty well discussed on the forum already), this factory supplied Mark 15 solar controller is far from the best available....but it does work, just not very efficient. It is a "bang-bang" controller. At battery voltage drops below 13.2, "bang" it turns on. It stays on until the voltage rises through 14.3 where "bang" it turns off...waiting for the voltage to drop back down thru 13.2. If the shore power converter is on and holding the battery voltage above 13.2, the solar controller never turns on. The indicator lights on the Mark 15 controller provide a clue to status. Amber means "charging" or "solar panel on". Green means "charged" or "solar panel off".

It is possible to fool the control into turning on by temporarily removing both fuses on the front panel then reinserting them.

OneMoBear
03-28-2012, 05:27 AM
The lights never get above good,never goes to charged.

The only time the indicator on ours shows charged is if the sun is hitting our solar panel or we are plugged in, even when we check it with a meter and it looks good.

Malinda