Top Corner Latch re-bolting

Just bought a 2008 TM 3326 and although I really had some terrific instruction from the previous owner, I still managed to shear off the Top Corner Latch bolt the first time I closed on my own when I overlooked a Velcro seal flap that prevented the trailer from closing easily. I now know that “Easy does it!” is the rule.

I am not making any progress in fixing the sheared bolt which holds the shiny metal bar that comes up to catch a pin in the front top. The old, broken bolt resists being “grabbed” or drilled out because it seems to go into a small metal structural piece that is filled with some soft substance. I don’t know how this could have kept the original bolt from pulling out, but somehow it did.
Has anyone made this repair or something similar, and how?

I will probably have my 3326 open over this weekend, and I will take a look at the latch assembly. I recently re-bedded the latch side, but it is through-bolted with a backing plate, I did not look at the other side of the latch.

The soft stuff you mention is probably caulking, which I would expect to find. I am not sure what the metal piece is that you are referring to.

Can you post any pictures?

[ShrimpBurrito]

You could use a screw/bolt extractor. You basically drill a small hole in the center of the bolt and then use the extractor in the drill to grab the bolt through the hole, and you simply use the drill to unscrew it.

A cobalt drill bit would be handy -- things will go alot faster in drilling the hole.

Dave

[mjlaupp]

Originally Posted by TravlinOn

...I am not making any progress in fixing the sheared bolt which holds the shiny metal bar that comes up to catch a pin in the front top....

I think you are describing the catches that hold the top shells open. PopBeavers described a modification to his TM in this post.
http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...43272#poststop
He may be able to help. Wayne?

Thanks all. I haven't learned how to upload a gif file to this thread, or how to "paste" from a clipboard - neither seem to work for me so far but perhaps I can include a link.

The "top corner latch" that I mean is mentioned in the TM Owners Manual, page 12, paragraph 4, and in the lower diagram where is is shown as "corner latch". The latch is an aluminum bar that is bolted to the face of the lower section and when the top section is folded outward into position, the bar is then swung clock-wise upward against the front of the trailer to catch a pin on the upward section (on each side) in order to keep the two sections aligned properly.

My problem is that I broke the bolt that goes through the aluminum bar into the side of the trailer and part of the broken bolt is still in the hole where it seems to be anchored internally. I will try again to drill out or "grab" the broken end, but what then? A friend suggested that I force some two-part epoxy into the drilled out hole and screw the new bolt in before the epoxy sets, but I have never tried this remedy before.

Here's the link (I hope):

http://members.cox.net/gocntry/2008%...r%20Manual.pdf

Comments or suggestions welcomed.

[Bill]

Aha! I never knew what those latches were called. I think the 3326 has some kind of latch on the roof where the front and rear sections come together, and I thought you were talking about that. Now I know better.

I think that what you are saying is that the bolt broke off flush with the side of the TM, and now you need to unscrew the broken stub. Since there is no good way to get a grip on the broken stub, it is not clear how to get it out. Am I on the right page?

You can go to any hardware store and buy a left-handed drill bit. It is just like any normal drill bit, except that the twist is in the opposite direction. You chuck it in your drill, set the drill for "Reverse", and drill into the center of the stub. Since the drill is rotating counterclockwise, the direction that would unscrew the bolt, it is common for the bolt stub to suddenly come free and back right out.

If it doesn't back out, go back to the hardware store and buy an extractor. This is kind of like a left-hand drill bit, except that the diameter is tapered. You screw it by hand into the hole you just drilled, and continue to tighten it down until it binds because of the taper. Then put a wrench on it and continue to rotate it to the left. Now you have a good grip on the stub, and a way to put some serious torque on it, and it will come out. The size of the extractor is related to the size of the hole, and the size of the hole is related to the size of the bolt. So before you start, make sure you take all this into account. Your hardware guy will guide you.

Bill

Originally Posted by Bill

If it doesn't back out, go back to the hardware store and buy an extractor. This is kind of like a left-hand drill bit, except that the diameter is tapered.

Bill

Around here these are commonly called easy-outs.

I'm still not clear if you are talking about the four corner latches that hold the front and rear of the upper shells down while towing, or the aluminum bars that pull the top shells tightly into the bottom shell when popped open.

I suspect it is the later.

The recent mention of one of my previous posts was regarding how to pull the upper shell in tighter, to reduce drafts. It did not discuss the bolt.

Another thing to try, depending on clearance, is to use a hacksaw to cut off the head of the bolt flush with the aluminum bar. The bar should then slide off and the remainder of the bolt can be rotated out with vise grip pliers.

If the aluminum bar is already off and there is no part of the bold sticking out where you can grab it with pliers, then the only viable option is the drill a hole and use an easy-out as someone else mentioned.

The hard part is drilling a hole that is only in the bolt and not into the shell.

The hole need not be exactly centered, but the closer to centered the better.

My local auto mechanic has a guy that is an expert at drilling this hole. I would take it to him. He would not charge me because I am his best customer. Been going there since 1986. But San Jose may not be close enough for you to go see him.

Ah, I went through total confusion and back to clarity. I thought you were talking about the main shell latch on top of the 3326. Now I see you are talking about the flip up square centering bars that stabilize the shells until the slides are pulled out.

After looking at my 3326 I see that each of these bolts goes into a nut that is tack welded to the corner frame of the trailer. What worries me is that the OP mentions the bolt going directly into the side of the trailer assuming I read it correctly. Makes me wonder if the original nut was broken off and this was the fix?

[Wavery]

I sure would like to see a pic of what you are talking about. This is very confusing.

If you have a broken bolt, chances are the end of the bolt is very jagged. It may be helpful if you took an angle grinder and grind the broken surface flat. Then use a center punch to locate the drill as close as possible to center before drilling. Drill a 1/8" pilot hole 1st. If it's the bolt that I think it is, it's a 3/8" bolt. You will want to drill a 1/4" hole and use the appropriate EZ-out.

Another technique that you might try is a small chisel. Take the chisel and a small hammer and make a notch in one edge of the broken bolt. Then use the chisel to try to drive the bolt counter-clockwise to remove it from the hole. If it doesn't move, make one notch on each side of the bolt and alternate sides as you tap (you shouldn't have to hit it hard......light taps work best).

As far as securing a new bolt........I believe that there is a nut welded on the back side of the tubing, that the bolt screws into.

Whatever technique, be sure to use WD40.

Just took this picture about an hour ago. This is what the bolt assembly looks like on my 3326 for what I call the shell stabilizers - the four square aluminum bars that are placed into the shell pins prior to the slides being pulled out.

IF this is what the OP is asking about, there is a nut clearly tack welded onto the corner frame opposite the bolt. There is no caulk or other sealant visible. I am still suspicious someone did a homemade repair for a broken assembly and drove the bolt directly into the frame...

OK the picture is sideways, anyone interested can download it and rotate it, my computer has been doing this lately.