First, you should never crank the jacks into the hard-up position. They will jam there, and be very hard to get down. Stop cranking when there is one or two turns left.
Second, if the jacks are jammed in the up position, you should be able to start them down with strenuous application of the hand crank. If that doesn't work, or you don't have the crank, you should be able to start them down by putting a long rod or screwdriver through the holes in the jack socket. If you have newer jacks with a hex nut instead of a tube with holes in the sides, then you will need a wrench to start them down. A socket wrench, or a long open-end wrench with a cheater bar, will do the job nicely.
Finally, many (most?) of us carry a battery-powered electric drill (less than $20 at Harbor Freight, for example), with the appropriate-size Allen wrench or foundation bolt chucked in it. Or, if you have a hex crank-down jack, keep a proper-sized socket and adapter chucked in it. Either way, the drill will zip the jacks up and down in seconds with no effort and very little stooping. An inexpensive drill isn't powerful enough the lift the trailer, so if you are in a situation where you need to level it, and you don't want to use wood or plastic boards under the wheels, the hand crank is your answer. Carry it someplace where it is handy, like the rear bumper compartment.
Bill
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Scissor jacks
Linear Mode
