Battery recommendation for non-boondocker

nwhouston · 04-22-2018, 08:00 AM

We have two 6 volt GC batteries that are ready for replacement (one has a positive pole that is lifted from when I had to pull the batteries due to a fluid overflow into the battery box due to a hard bump).

They were installed by The Car Show when we bought the trailer used in '13 on the basis that we would boondock alot. Reality is that we never boondock. So now that we are replacing these two batteries, should we go with a single, 12 v, deep cycle battery (G29 or 31?), or try to replicate the dual 6 v's? Also, what is the recommended 12 v battery for our needs? We do not solar charge or use a generator, and we have the original charger that is standard in an '07 TM.

We have the dual battery box, and we have the single battery wet well that comes in the '07 3124. So housing is not an issue, nor is wiring, since we have the series cable is we go back with dual 6's.

Appreciate your recommendations and experience.

Larry

Shane826 · 04-22-2018, 09:41 AM

If you never boondock and always always have hookups, a 24 or 27 series battery is fine. It will really only be used for the trailer disconnect brakes and as a buffer/reserve for the 12V system. I’m kinda the same type of camper; we always have hookups. I have a 27 series because it fits the box better and it was only a $5 difference from the 24 series.

But here’s the question I ask myself... If I had the battery capacity and solar (bought a Champion in/gen last year after being without power at home for a week), would I boondock more often? Would I take advantage of the state parks that have limited hookups? What if we have to pull over for a WalMart overnight? If you already have the setup, and it’s not much more expensive, go with the 2 GC batteries. Ya just never know...

I have a buddy who has switched to almost exclusive boondock camping (upright Keystone Laredo TT, real nice camper). He doesn’t want to hear me about switching to 2 6V batteries, but he always complains that his battery won’t get him through a long weekend just running LED lights. He uses his truck to charge the battery through the Bargman connector. Also doesn’t want to hear that that’s a really inefficient way to charge your battery.

**dab1950** · 04-22-2018, 10:04 AM

Larry,
I agree with Shane826. I have a single group 27 Deep Cycle/RV battery that
does just fine. I too, do not boondock. Do not have solar panels. No generator.
I do need to convert interior lighting to LED though.
Good luck.

Shane826 · 04-22-2018, 10:14 AM

dab1950- Why? If you don’t boondock, doesn’t that mean you always have hookups, so why do you NEED to go to LEDs? That said, I switched to LEDs because most of my ceiling lights were ruined by a water leak and the LED versions were actually cheaper than the incandescent. I haven’t touched any of the fluorescent lights.

**dab1950** · 04-22-2018, 10:37 AM

Shane,
I'm in no hurry to switch to LED's. Bought the TM in 2014, still on my mind as
a 'to do'. When one burns out, it'll get replaced with LED tech. But if I really needed to turn on the lights without some kind of shore power connection,
LED's wouldn't strain the battery as much.

Keep on camping.

nwhouston · 04-22-2018, 02:39 PM

Thanks for both replies. I am planning to go with the single 12 v deep cycle battery. My problem now is finding the right one. There are other threads on this site that say, "not marine", "should not have a CCA rating", and some other guidance that seems to indicate there really is a deep cycle, flooded lead acid battery out there for an RV trailer. So far I cannot find it. Whether Walmart or Interstate or other retailers, everyone seems to be selling deep cycle marine batteries for this duty.

Has anyone found a true deep cycle, low current - long use, 12 volt RV battery? Long use to me would be overnight in a Walmart lot with just the heater blower on (worst case). Otherwise we are always tied off to the Texas utility grid.

Thanks.

Larry

Padgett · 04-22-2018, 04:14 PM

Well for me the choice was between a grp31 AGM and a pair of GC2s. Both were the same price. But for me the increased deep cycle capacity and extra electrolyte capacity made the GC2s worth while. Also if one goes bad replacement is half the price.

BTW have had a couple of grp 31 AGMs and a couple of years ago helped a friend drive a '73 GMC motor home with a Olds 455 from O'town to Bentonville Ark. Bout Talahassee the 10DN alternator took a dump so for the next 1200 miles (with a long stop with family in Dothan) it was start out at dawn and drive until dusk. Having to stop every 100 miles for gas (tank was NG) didn't help. Then find a motel, remove the battery, and put on a 15A charger overnight. Repeat for three days. We got there.
https://www.samsclub.com/sams/durace...prod3590232.ip

ps a Duracell grp 31 AGM is 12 15/16" L X 6 3/4" W X 9 3/8" H so should fit in place of 2 GC2s.

pps major difference is that on float the GC2s will probably need distilled water added every few months. AGM should not.

**kengiesige** · 04-22-2018, 05:12 PM

Last year I had to replace my 2----6 volt batteries in my 2005 2720 SD that we bought in Oct. 2015-----I bought---2--6 volt-- Interstate from a Interstate dealer & they took the old batteries---we do go to state parks we have electric hook up are #1 park is Mueller in Divide CO. have had no problems------Ken

tentcamper · 04-22-2018, 05:39 PM

A marine battery will do just fine for you since you only camp with electric hookups. You might need some lights in your drive and you need a battery for the emergency brake breakaway switch.

Hold onto you cables and battery box for your second battery. Just in case you decide later on to do smae dry camping.

**Bill** · 04-22-2018, 05:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nwhouston

Thanks for both replies. I am planning to go with the single 12 v deep cycle battery. My problem now is finding the right one. There are other threads on this site that say, "not marine", "should not have a CCA rating", and some other guidance that seems to indicate there really is a deep cycle, flooded lead acid battery out there for an RV trailer. So far I cannot find it. Whether Walmart or Interstate or other retailers, everyone seems to be selling deep cycle marine batteries for this duty.

Has anyone found a true deep cycle, low current - long use, 12 volt RV battery? Long use to me would be overnight in a Walmart lot with just the heater blower on (worst case). Otherwise we are always tied off to the Texas utility grid.

Thanks.

Larry

Larry -

WalMart used to sell a deep cycle battery as part of their Everstart Maxx series. The off-grid solar power people used to love them. I've noticed that my local WalMart doesn't keep them in stock any more, but you may be able to have them order one. By the way, these are often referred to as "trolling motor batteries". WalMart now offers one called Mighty Max ML75-12 (12 volt, 75 A-H). A bit pricey at $140.

If you can't find one, I agree with Tentcamper - I wouldn't be upset about using a Marine battery (a bit under $100) in your situation. Engine start batteries are necessarily a bit flimsy in their construction. Deep cycle batteries are much more rugged. Marine batteries are kind of in between the two.

Bill