Torsion Bar Woes - Page 2

**ShrimpBurrito** · 02-05-2014, 04:55 PM

That sounds like a blast. It's too bad that it seems most kids these days don't even have the opportunity for such an experience. Great work!

Dave

02-06-2014, 08:45 PM

I would call TM and talk to Ed or ask to talk with someone with a lot of torsion bar experience.
Good luck and good for you in creating experiences and memories your children will never forget.

Michigan Kevin · 02-17-2014, 08:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by moneeleann

Back again, with the same problems....

If any of you recall, I bought a used 2005 3023. Still love it to death. But it had problems with the roof and was really hard to lift in the front. We adjusted the bolts for the torsion bars, but the bolts for the awning side were maxed out.

I know that one of the previous owners let it sit with too much snow on top, which bowed the roof of the front shell. However, this is all repaired (although the dip is still there) now. As far as I can tell, there is no water trapped in the shell (nothing leaking anywhere inside or out, and I live in OK, where temps have been over 100, which should have evaporated anything out).

I spent much time on the phone with someone at The Car Show, and he determined that my front door side torsion bar needed replaced. Even though both bolts were bottomed out, he explained that the center one was only for assist, and once the front was replaced, the center would be fine.

So, I replaced the torsion bar on the front. Surprisingly, it was fairly easy to do. And wow, what a difference when just looking at the two bars side by side! The old one was definitely sprung! So, with everything back together, I can now lift it by myself. But, the center bar is still bottomed out on the bolt, and I have to really put everything I have into opening it. I am not exactly small..... But I have to lift, brace a leg on the box, and push/lift with everything I've got to get it open.

What do you all think? Does the center bar also need replaced? I think it does. When I open the latches, the front back side of the camper lifts up a bit. The front door side is a beast that barely moves. It is definitely a problem on that side. Opinions? I really want my camper to be something I can have more confidence with, as I travel by myself with my three small children during the summer months. If I'm really tired, I have a hard time lifting it still.

At a dealer in Tampa right now. They're trying to order one. The other seven work fine, but it takes two strong men on the door side front. Looks like our next campground wil be for the duration of our trip

Padgett · 05-01-2014, 02:53 PM

My front was a bear to lift alone and PO said had been same for him. I added a 1/4 turn to all four and will see if that makes a difference. If not will add some more, plenty of adjustment left.

BTW having a 18" 1 1/8" wrench helps. I used the box end.

05-02-2014, 06:04 PM

My wife and I struggle to open the front shell. I adjusted the torsion bars a few years ago. When I tried to adjust them again, I broke both front adjusting bolts off. I'm strong enough to break the bolts, but can't lift the shell.

Bruce

Padgett · 05-02-2014, 08:34 PM

Part of the reason (really) I live in central Florida is because things do not rust here. I did spray the adjustment bolts with aeroKroil and used an 18" wrench but they turned freely & none are near maxed out.

First studs I have broken in years was the one wheel hub and was because someone with a bigger air gun than IQ managed to drive 12x1.5 nuts on 1/2-20 studs. Fortunately I have a press so replacement was simple.

Also see some corrosion so have ordered all new outside fasteners in stainless (I make it 32 3/8-16x1.25 and 16 1/4-20x5/8, correct ?) Imagine I could just clean them up since no loss in strength evident (and I spent five years in Michigan, know what real rust looks like). But like to fix things once so will replace all while easy.

05-05-2014, 09:24 AM

Ok, so I'm checking back in to this thread, looking for some opinions...

Back story: Front shell is a bear to open, on the door side. When you release the latches, the street side springs up, ready to lift. The door side doesn't even think about moving. Here's what I've done:

Noticed that both adjusting bolts were maxed out and the bar could be tightened no further. Spent time on phone with Car Show, replaced front door side bar. I noticed when I replaced the bar that the old one was majorly spent. When I laid the new bar and the old bar side by side, the old one was twisted so that the "L" on the end of the bar was over 45 degrees off of the new one! After replacing, I noticed it had improved, but still hard to open, and still no "spring" at all when the latch is released.

After sitting for the winter, open part of the time, closed part of the time, I've noticed that it is a bear to open again. Grr... I have yet to get down to investigate, so maybe the bolt loosened up over the winter, and just needs adjusted again. But the center one is still maxed out, with no result.

So we're up for another replacement. But now I'm wondering if I may have damaged the new bar I put in last year, since it is effectively lifting the whole side, since the center bar is useless. So we are prepare to do one of the following:

1. Replace just the door side, center bar on the front shell, then retune all bars.

2. Replace both bars on the door side front shell, then retune.

3. Replace all four bars on the front shell, then retune.

What I want, is a shell that will lift by one person. It doesn't have to be a one handed lift like they brag about in the videos, just one person. And I should clarify, not by a powerlifter, that one person needs to be me, since I set up by myself more often than not.

So... $140 for one bar, probably around 250 for two bars, or around 475 for all four. The hassle of changing them isn't much of a factor, because it really isn't too hard and the alternative isn't cost effective (taking it to the car show would cost me a couple thousand by the time you factored in all expenses plus their labor charges, and although there is now an authorized distributor who told me then can do the work here in Oklahoma, I don't really want to be their first rodeo, know what I mean?)

So what do you guys think? My husband thinks we should just replace them all. I'm riding the fence...

Padgett · 05-05-2014, 01:12 PM

Are all of the bars the same or do some have a left twist and some a right ?

Might also check the slot the bar goes through for elongation (see picture).

Finally leaving the trailer open or at least unlatched would have less long term stress than keeping it closed. Too bad there is not a way to relieve the stress when storing closed. Wonder if I could design a linkage to do that.

Have others experienced this ? Is is always the front half ?[/SIZE]

tentcamper · 05-06-2014, 09:02 AM

I know they are different sizes. The front two on my unit are much larger then the other 6. I think they all have the same twice.

05-06-2014, 02:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Padgett

Are all of the bars the same or do some have a left twist and some a right ?

Might also check the slot the bar goes through for elongation (see picture).

Finally leaving the trailer open or at least unlatched would have less long term stress than keeping it closed. Too bad there is not a way to relieve the stress when storing closed. Wonder if I could design a linkage to do that.

Have others experienced this ? Is is always the front half ?[/SIZE]

Is that bar in the picture a front bar? I don't think mine sticks through the hole that much. Maybe that could be part of the problem? I'm out of adjustment room, but maybe if I can force the bar into the hole more... Yay, something to check!