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Old 03-03-2005, 05:18 PM   #11
B_and_D
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When you're on battery power, you will probably run your frig on propane. Then things you then have to worry about draining the battery are the lights and the furnace. The furnace will drain your batteries pretty fast. We put two 6-volt golf cart batteries on our tongue, they give us a longer period of use than a single 12-volt battery. We also bring along another (the old) 12-volt battery that we use to run the TV/DVD player. You can get led lights that use a lot less electricity than the regular bulbs, but from what I've read you can't use them while hooked up to shore power unless your converter is one of the better ones (they burn out).

If you're going to be dry camping for a longer period of time, you have to figure out some way of charging up your batteries. Do a search on that topic and you can read more if you're so inclined. We haven't invested in a generator yet, but would like to get the Honda 2000.

The converter is built into the TM. Newer TM's have a more advanced model than the older ones, not sure what year they switched over. You can always upgrade, this has also been discussed here.

We don't have an LP gauge, and I don't think that they have them with the newer ones either.

DH is dear husband and DW is dear wife (well, most of the time, anyway!).

As far as climbing over each other to get out of bed, well that's sort of a hassle. We've always had to do that with the TT we had before, and also our cabover camper. People with the king size beds can sleep with their heads at the rear window, thus eliminating the climbing over. We don't "make up" the bed, just keep a sheet on the mattress and use sleeping bags and/or a down comforter. Some people like the Travasak sleep system, it's like a high-end sleeping bag, complete with detachable sheets that go inside the sleep sack.

Positive things? Well, I'll have to write more later!
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Old 03-03-2005, 09:34 PM   #12
RockyMtnRay
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JessWD
I would like to ask just how hard is it to make up the permanent Queen size bed? Contour sheets sounds like a preference. I don't like the idea of climbing over each other during the night...especially following and evening when my thirst cannot be quenched and I drink two or three ice teas or a couple beers!
Because of their thin mattresses and need to slide unhindered, TrailManor beds are not particularly conducive to being "made" up with traditional residential type bedding. IMO, the best solution is a TravaSak...basically a very high end sleeping bag with velcro-in/removable high thread-count percale sheets. One side of the Travasak "quilt" has thin insulation (summer); one side has thicker insulation (winter). Yeah pricey but IMO well worth the money. Spread out a Travsak looks like a comforter on the bed. I used an ordinary sleeping bag my first two seasons with a TM and the Travasak was a major step up in comfort and appearance.
Quote:

If you use battery powered lamps for light, and only use trailer lights for very brief periods.....does anyone know how long the battery lasts with running the frig on it?
At most 4 to 5 hours if the battery is brand new. The standard Group 27 "RV/Marine" battery is not a true deep cycle battery and will lose a lot of its storage capacity if you deep discharge it more than 4 to 5 times. Those of us who do a lot of boondock camping have replaced the standard battery with a pair of 6 volt Golf Cart batteries.
Quote:
No one has mentioned a Honda generator for dry camping.
Not many folks who do extended boondock camping here...nearly everyone uses campgrounds with hookups...and many/most of us who do regularly boondock have installed solar panels. Generally, solar is much better for battery recharging than a generator. Generators are best for high current draw applications...running the air conditioner or a microwave.
Quote:
Is there a guage to show how much LP gas remains in the tanks?
Yes.
Quote:
I hear talk about a "converter." Ignorant regarding a lot to do with electrical matters. Is a "converter" something "extra" one needs to purchase? Or is
it built in? Does it convert the current from AC to DC and vis versa?
A "converter" converts 120 V AC to 12 V DC. A converter is built into the trailer. Most of the key circuits in a TM (water pump, lighting, furnace) are 12 V DC.
Quote:
I talked to my tire man today while having new tires put on our Tundra. He
said he only will run 8 ply tires on his travel trailer. He said the tires do not hold up the weight of the trailer. Air does that! You don't often think of it
that way. He said he talks to RV people all the time who are running 5000 pounds with 37 or so pounds in the tires. Does everyone run 8 ply tires?

He also said Goodyear runs a steel belt around the inner circle of the tire.....the part that meets the rim. Bridgestone uses rubber. But it's so hard, he said, you can pound it with a hammer and not even leave a mark.
But it gives a much smoother ride. I've run Bridgestones on our vehicles for many many years, exclusively. Today with these new tires it's like riding on
a soft cloud. Even the steering is so soft feeling. And quiet! He also said
to rotate tires every 4000 instead of 5000 as I have in the past. I got 72,000 miles on a set on our Buick Regal once, by faithfully rotating the tires every 5000 miles and keeping air pressure up. That was incredible! Those were Bridgestones too.
The best tire you can put on your Tundra for towing is the Michelin LTX M/S in the 265/75-16 size in a Load Range C. Extremely long life (70 to 90 thousand miles is normal), very good traction, and has a "6 ply" sidewall rating. This is a "Light Truck" tire with stiffer sidewalls so it is very resistant to trailer induced sway.

Avoid Goodyear for towing...quality has dropped a lot in the past few years.

The Bridgestone "Revo" tires are highly rated for traction and load carrying but don't have nearly the tread life of the Michelin LTX tires.

As for the trailer tires, it's critical the 14 inch tires on the 2619/2720 trailers be pumped to exactly 50 PSI. Under no circumstances should these tires be run at a lower pressure than the maximum on the tire sidewall and certainly never at a dangerously low pressure like 37 PSI
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I use my TM as a base camp for hiking, kayaking, mountain biking, and climbing Colorado's 14ers


The Trailer: 2002 TM Model 2720SL ( Mods: Solar Panels (170 Watts), Dual T-105 Batteries, Electric Tongue Jack, Side AC, Programmable Thermostat, Doran TP Monitor System)

The Tow Vehicle: 2003 Toyota Tundra V8 SR5 4X4 w/Tow Package (Towing & Performance Mods: JBA Headers, Gibson Muffler, 4.30 gears, Michelin LTX M/S Tires, Prodigy Brake Controller, Transmission Temperature Gauge)


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Old 03-03-2005, 11:40 PM   #13
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I don't have my 2720 (yet). Only one week into the order wait time so far. I have been reading about the various complaints etc. and found it interesting that someone else’s complaint didn't matter to me. It seems like this conversation might (unfortunately) scare some prospective buyers away.

Major topics seem to be:

1. necessity of climbing over each other in the bed
2. crowded with 4 adults
3. condensation
4. ability of spouse to open/close solo
5. toilet
6. low cabinets
7. making the bed when you can't walk around it

Here is my perspective, plus a few other tidbits of opinions after that.

1. necessity of climbing over each other in the bed

I take the back side. By the time I need to get up to use the restroom in the morning my back is sore enough that I won't be going back to bed anyway. This is a non-issue for us.

2. crowded with 4 adults

Our two primary uses will be attending mountain bike races and weekend getaways. Our kids are 21 and 24, but still only kids. At the bike races our son’s friends frequently hang out with us because we have free food and drinks. Good way to get to meet your kid’s friends for a nominal cost. There is no trailer around that will accommodate a dozen adults. So we hang out around a camp fire anyway. As the saying goes "It never rains in California". Weekend getaways will be just the two of us. Someday we may end up with grand kids. It will likely be another 15 years before the oldest is 10.

3. condensation

This is California. We don't have high humidity. No issue for us. I've been to Chicago, Milwaukee, NYC, DC, Houston and New Orleans. The humidity is intolerable and I can’t imagine why anyone goes there. Salt Lake City, Phoenix, Albuquerque, Idaho, Aspen, Yellowstone are all WONDERFUL places. I avoid anyplace where the humidity exceeds the temperature.

4. ability of spouse to open/close solo

My wife was skeptical. At the RV show they had a model set up to demonstrate opening and closing the TM. My wife was able to open it and close it by herself with one hand. But, she did have to use her right hand. She has bad knees and can't do much for exercise so she certainly is not above average for strength. I think she is around 5 foot 7. Being the nicest guy that I know I won't disclose her age, but we first met as class mates in 7th grade. I'm 51 for a few more months.

5. toilet

Like I said, my wife has bad knees. She will be welcome to use the toilet any time she wants. I see no reason for her to climb down the steps if she is already inside. Anyone sleeping inside is welcome in the middle of the night. Anyone causing unnecessary strain on the holding tank is welcome to help me drain it or they will be unwelcome in the future. This philosophy has worked in the past when we borrowed my in-laws motor home. Most guests are accommodating once they understand the issues.

6. low cabinets

Oh well, this one will be an issue. I can't win them all.

7. making the bed when you can't walk around it

We use sleeping bags. I plan on investigating the Travasak. It seems to be rather popular.

Now for a few other tidbits:

At some of the mountain bike races it can get muddy. The in-laws motor home had carpets and my mother in-law was rather picky about dirty carpets. She had little throw rugs everywhere. We ordered our TM with full vinyl flooring. I plan on getting some remnant carpet and having it cut to size and the edges finished off. Possibly in more than one section for ease of removal. Then I can take the carpet in and out at will. I'm sure it is warmer with the carpet but easier to sweep with vinyl flooring. Ask me again in another year if this worked out well.

I became curious about putting a larger axle and bigger 15 inch wheels on the 2720. I called the factory today. According to Mike, he has only seen two 2720's built with the larger axle/wheel. It can be done but requires building the trailer outside of the normal assembly line. I understood that to mean longer wait time and higher cost. I abandoned that plan. I'll add the lift kit later if I need it. Mike assured me that the axle will tolerate anything we want to fill the trailer up with as long as the rock collection stays home. That was good enough for me.

I also asked Mike about the feasibility of me removing the roof a/c if I needed more head room getting in and out of the garage. It occurred to me that this might allow me to add the lift kit and still get into the garage if it is too tall. Mike explained that it was only four bolts and a few wires, However, unlike some other unnamed trailer manufacturers, the TM a/c has silicone sealant that would not be advisable to mess with repeatedly. But at least I know not to try that unnecessarily. Mike was pretty nice to talk with.

Mike also was confident that with a Chevy 1500HD Crew Cab as a TV that I would have no need for sway bars or WD hitch. I’ll start out that way and see how it works out. The trip from the dealer to the house will be 120 miles.

I’m so excited that I went to Camping World twice in one week to look around. Friends at the office were amazed that I had enough willpower to NOT buy anything.
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Old 03-04-2005, 05:24 AM   #14
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Ok, I will add my thoughts, when we get to a campsite that has no electric, I find that the battery is not fully charged. That is from running the fridge, and fan. I think the problem is that the battery is so far from the alternator in the truck. (Voltage drop)

We have only one 12 V battery but it is the bigger one. I simply plug the TM into the Yamaha EF 1000 is. We run it for a while on low quite speed. It operates the water pump, and any lights that we may need. At the same time it gives the battery a full charge. We have no problem with then running on just the battery with heat for the night. Yes the TV is on, but it will operate on 12v. The Yamaha is actually lighter then another battery, and can be carried in the TV.

If you are looking for a TRAVASACK Check with KATIE at [email protected] best price!!!
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Old 03-04-2005, 06:52 AM   #15
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At the suggestion of our dealer, MCD in MA, we start to make the bed up before pulling it fully into place. That allows us to get the outside corners all set. We then move to the inside and do the corner behind the bathroom wall before setting the bathroom up. That makes it much easier.

My 5' 2" DW and similarly sized youngest DD have both opened the shells of our TM and set it up. My DW wanted to be sure she could do it in case something happened to me and my DD just wanted to show off.

Happy Camping,
Al
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Old 03-04-2005, 07:11 AM   #16
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The Queen size Travasak is on sale at RV Parts Outlet for $134.95.
https://www.rvpartsoutlet.com/newsto...C&cat=travasak
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Old 03-04-2005, 01:52 PM   #17
B_and_D
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I forgot another thing that's "bad", well, sometimes, about the TM. When it rains hard outside, it can sound really loud inside. When we were in Yosemite in October, it started POURING around midnight, and although everybody else went right to sleep, I had to get out my earplugs. They worked well enough and I fell asleep after awhile, too.

On the other hand, when it's raining lightly, I enjoy the sound of the rain on the roof; plus we don't usually camp in the rain!
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Old 03-04-2005, 08:00 PM   #18
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Having the trailer level is a must for many reasons, including being able to raise the roof sections. But, there is a method of raising the roof if you don't have the trailer level. After having major surgery followed by another major surgery couple years ago, I was extremely weakened. I had leveled th trailer and then tried to raise the roofs but didn''t have the strength to even budge it. It probably would have meant a return to the hospital if I were to continue to try. Talk about frustration. Then, being that the front shell is the first to be raised, I got the idea to lower the tongue jack (electric) as low as it would go. The front roof almost raised itself then. Next, I raised the tongue jack all the way up so that the back of the trailer was at its lowest point. Now I could raise the rear section very easily. After the roof sections were clamped in their open position, I leveled the trailer by placing a level on the sink. Later, I lowered the roof sections by this process. I really felt proud being able to do it all by myself. I showed my wife how I did it, should she ever find the need to raise and lower the tailer by herself. Also, if you were thinking about an electric tongue jack, I say to go for it.

Hal
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Old 03-05-2005, 05:06 AM   #19
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Sometimes it is the simple stuff that is so ingenious! Thanks Hal, hope I can remember that if I need it.
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Old 03-05-2005, 05:34 AM   #20
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I have a '00 2619, purchased new. The TM is a pretty good trailer, I have enjoyed mine and pretty much lived in it the last 4 summers. With that said......

The TM does not seem to be a very good "off-road" machine.

My biggest complaint is dust. Just a few miles down a dry dusty road and I get to spend an hour cleaning. From the door on back, everything, and I mean everything, will have a healthy coat of dust (top of the stove very brown, not black). The front portion is not too bad, but still..
I will be forever greatful if anyone has a fix for this problem.

Next, are the latches at the back of the trailer. Even if I put something in lock hole to keep them from popping open, they still come loose so the back of the trailer is not secured. (This definitely can't be helping out my dust problem) I can only guess a hard bounce is jaring the latches loose.

Road bounce has apparently caused the back bed to bounce hard enough to break thru the cheap plastic guide the support rods slide along. So I have a piece of colored rope tied to one of the rods to remind me to check and put the rod piece back into the plastic guide before pulling out the bed.

And a piece of duct tape over the plastic knob for holding the top portion of door closed KEEPS the door closed. Otherwise knob turns and the door flys open.

Last, but not least, tire wear. My guess is the tires are toed-in, they smooth out on the outside of the tire. Problem started with the driver side and progressed to the street side. I replaced one tire with the spare, then rotated the tires a couple of times. Finally had the tires dismounted and flipped so the brand-new looking insides were on the outside. With a bit over 20K miles, the trailer is not going anywhere without new tires. The dealer said to balance the tires. They have been balanced since my 3rd or 4th trip when he told me to balance the tires as the answer to why my oven started to fall out (loose screws) and the oven door to fall off and the oven door handle to fall off. The dealer pointed me to a place that supposedly can align a straight axle. I have my doubts, but for 50 bucks guess it won't hurt.

Advice to any who purchase a new TM. Get the wrenches and screwdrivers to fit every nut/bolt screw on the TM. And some spare pieces of hardware. You WILL use the tools and need the spares during your 1st 10 outings.

Happy TMing
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