Removing antenna

[HoMiPa]

Originally Posted by Bill

This is not to say that it can't be done, but it will be a PITA kind of job.

Bill

Good to know all this info Bill - and it pretty much sways my mind in regards to considering it's removal. I've been battling with it in regards to putting on/taking off any sort of cover/tarp for years now - just thought it was high time I rethink that hassle. But, I also know I probably only have a few more years of enjoying the TM, before it gets to be too much for me in regards to opening/closing on my own. Hence the reason for the remodel now - have a few years to enjoy it after the remodel, before it gets too hard for me to enjoy it. So, might as well leave the darn thing up there..... Thanks so much - this is exactly the sort of info I was looking for, before making a final decision on removing it.

[grubbyjeans]

Originally Posted by klpauba

Kewl! Is that any higher (when folded down) than the A/C unit? My 2720SL just barely (and I mean, just barely) clears the opening of my storage garage now -- and I modified the top trim to be removable.

Mounted, the top is 16.5 in. from the top of the TM.

I had to modify the top trim also due to the installation of the Atwood a/c. I just removed a section of the top trim. I re-attach it with a couple of screws until I need to move the trailer again. My garage door opening is 83.5in.

[Larryjb]

So, did anyone actually remove their antenna?

The coaxial cable was cut and the antenna mast removed on mine. All it does is tear any cover I want to put on it. I am considering removing it, tucking the remaining cable into the hole, filling the hole with spray foam, then putting an aluminum plate over the works. Around here on the west coast of Canada/Washington, there's not much TV to be had unless you've got a cable hookup.

[Shane826]

Grubbyjeans- More pics and LOTS of details, please! Been trying to think of ways to make camping more enjoyable for the wife. DISH is one of the ideas I've been kicking around.

[Bill]

Shane826 posted

Been trying to think of ways to make camping more enjoyable for the wife. DISH is one of the ideas I've been kicking around.

Shane -

I have a Dish antenna and a cheapie tripod. We don't use it often - we are not big TV fans. But when we think we might need satellite TV, we just grab the Dish Network receiver from the house, pack up the rest of the parts, and go. Once at the campsite, it is surprisingly easy to set up and aim.

You can buy the entire setup new or used, as a complete kit or piecemeal. They are sometimes available at Good Will, etc, and always available for cheap on ebay. It would be hard to spend as much as $75 for a complete setup, including dish, feed (LNA/LNB), tripod, cable, and satellite finder.

You can buy one of the elaborate self-leveling self-aiming satellite antennas in a box or dome, and pay a lot of money. But for me this approach works well. And by the way, the same equipment works on Direct TV - I have done it.

There at least two discussions of satellite TV elsewhere on the forum. A Search should turn them up. I don't want to hijack this thread, but feel free to PM me if you have specific questions.

Bill

[grubbyjeans]

Originally Posted by Shane826

Grubbyjeans- More pics and LOTS of details, please! Been trying to think of ways to make camping more enjoyable for the wife. DISH is one of the ideas I've been kicking around.

I began with a 1/4" sheet of aluminum alloy which I got at a scrap metal place for $5.00. I placed the dish on it and marked the hole locations then laid out the mount allowing 1/2" on either side of the four holes. I then laid out the four holes for the antenna bracket, so the dish unit would be centered over the mast when raised. I cut most of it with a rotary metal disk on a 4" angle grinder.

I set the dish in position, over the antenna mast, and marked the hole and cut-off locations so the dish sits forward of the vent frame. I also measured the space between the mount and the roof, front and rear.

After cutting and drilling the mast, I mounted the dish using stainless machine screws connector nuts (pic 06). I crafted the legs, which keep the dish from rocking in transit, from 1/2" pvc, more machine screws, washers and feet. I used stainless hardware in all mountings and applied Loc-tite to hold them.

The connector nuts are screwed onto the four screws which hold the dish. Those screws are cut so they only reach about half-way into the connector nuts. After the nuts are tightened, I could determine how long the bottom screws and pvc pieces would be to obtain the previously measured length for the legs. The feet and washers, which give support to the feet against the pvc, and the pvc legs are attached to the bottom of the connector nuts.

On the inside, I disconnected to antenna cable from the back of the wall plate and connected it to a newly installed connector which I placed below and to the right of the original connectors. The cable to the rear trailer cannot be connected to the dish, but we don't use tv there anyway. The 12v outlet is still functional and the antenna power isn't needed.

We purchased a Wally receiver that we just leave in the trailer. It requires a direct connection so the receiver and dish can communicate during setup. When connected the dish locates satellites. Orientation of the unit is not necessary as the dish rotates as it scans.

The antenna crank requires a little more effort but doesn't seem to be more than it can lift. Raising the dish about halfway gives about a 4ft. lateral swing if there is an obstruction. We haven't had any problem finding satelites except in areas where hills block some of the low-orbit satellites.

[Larryjb]

I removed my antenna today. Wasn't bad, and the possible issue with the antenna cable that Bill suggested turned out to be a non issue, at least for me. Pictures later.

[Larryjb]

Okay,

Hollie considered it, I wanted it, but no one seems to have done anything about it. So, I did.

Removing the antenna wasn't so bad. I'm not finished yet with the interior work, but the hardest parts are done.

1) Remove the handle from inside. This uses a small allen key. According to Dick (commodor47), it's 3/32. Thanks Dick!




2) On the roof, remove the screws, any beads of caulking, then get a razor knife that will reach a good 3-4 inches under the base. I went through about 5 broken blades doing this, but I finally got it.



3) Remove antenna cable. This leaves just a short length of antenna cable that can be tucked inside the roof, ready in case the next person wants the antenna back.




4) Attach an aluminum plate to the roof where the original mount was. The metal shop recommended 1/8" aluminum so that flexing wouldn't separate the sealed joints. The roof skin could be securely screwed to this plate from above.

I predrilled 12 screw holes large enough for metal screws to pass through, then applied some butyl tape to the underside of the plate. The metal guy said as long as I used a matte paint, and scuffed the surface with some 600 grit paper, the paint would hold well. So, I primed and painted the plate once it was in place on the roof, but not screwed in. After the paint cured for an hour or so, I applied some RV sealant to each screw hold, then tightened the screws. I used stainless screws, so it's important that you use sealant in the hold to prevent galvanic action on the aluminum. Once the plate was secured with the screws, I applied a bead of RV caulking around the perimeter of the plate. I don't have a picture of this yet, but I'll take a picture of it later this week.

Now I can pull my tarp over my TM with far more ease!

My plan is to fill the hold with expanding foam, trim to size, then attach something new there. I haven't figured that out yet.

[commodor47]

Larry,

Great photos that will be helpful for anyone else removing their antenna.

The crank handle set screw is 3/32.

It looks like (from your photos) the coaxial pass-through connector at the base of the antenna is severely corroded. That may have played a role in poor reception. Early on in our ownership I had an issue with TV reception and traced it back to a bad pass-through connection in the ceiling, between the base of the antenna and the hand crank mechanism.

Dick

[Larryjb]

I'm sure that connection would have played a role in poor reception. In our case, we had no reception. When we bought the TM in WA, we forgot to pick up the antenna! No matter, here on the west coast, at least in BC and WA, there's very little TV you can get on the air.

One thing I forgot to note about the antenna base. The base was extremely well sealed, except for the screws. All of the leaking was through the screws. I see most people just caulking on top of the screws. I think much better way is to remove the screws, squeeze a dab of sealant into the screw hole, then reinsert the screw. This will do two things. First, I believe it will seal far better and longer than simply mashing a big blob of sealant on top of the screw. Secondly, unless you're using aluminum screws, you run the risk of the aluminum eroding through galvanic action when in contact with steel or stainless steel. A coating of sealant will separate the two metals, and where they are in contact, keep the water out.