Replacing torsion bars with larger ones

[BrucePerens]

Because I've added about 70 pounds weight to the front shell with this, and adjusting the lift to the maximum didn't quite make up for that, I need to replace the two torsion bars on the rear of my front shell with two thicker ones. I already have these on hand, they came from a crushed TM that was parted down. If I end up with too much lift, I will add antennas and solar panels as necessary.

Has anyone ever removed a torsion bar?

My plan would be to use a pair of farm jacks to lift the shell off of the rear lifting bar, and then unbolt the lifting bar. Then the other end needs to be pried out from under the adjusting bolt. Given that my trailer has pipe clamps securing the bottom end of these bars, that might not require very much force.

[BrucePerens]

Note this interesting photo of how the torsion bar is positioned with no load.

[BrucePerens]

And here are the lifting bars with the shell removed:

[Craigrrr]

Never had the torsion bars off. But a question about the first pic... I thought TM did away with wood framing? looks as the bottom skin is mounted to a wood frame, unless that is just a jig.

[Shane826]

Dose anyone remember a couple years ago I had floor framing failure? This is where TM used 2 sections of 2x4 (or whatever size it is) and cleated & glues them end to end. The joint failed, and the weight of the shell on the arms when opened would push that corner of the floor down past the wall. Not a fun fix.

[Bill]

Originally Posted by Craigrrr

But a question about the first pic... I thought TM did away with wood framing?

Craig -

This myth keeps coming up. You might re-read posts 6 thru 9 at

http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ad.php?t=19500

Bill

[tentcamper]

Bruce, I had to replace the lift bar on one side. All I used was a garage floor jack, with a about a 4-5' 2x4. I took off the pivot bolt off the shell. I would think you could do it on each side if you had 2 jacks, or a cut to size a 2x4 or 4x4and. I would then span a 8' 2x4 across the bottom shell to hold up the upper shell. Then move to the second pair.

The real issue I had was getting the lift arm off the torsion bar. I ended up unbolting those 4 bolts and placing a short 2x4 on the floor jack and the bottom of the lift arm. I jacked it up and when the torsion bar hit the topside of the frame hole it finally started to press off.

I have wondered if the torsion bars need to crisscross only a certain pattern. I would take some photos of them beforehand if you don't know the answer.

Also, not certain, but I think the front shell and rear shell torsion bars are a different length??

[BrucePerens]

Thanks for writing, there probably aren't many people with DIY experience for this.

Originally Posted by tentcamper

The real issue I had was getting the lift arm off the torsion bar.

I was thinking of clamping the lift bar end in a vise on the longer axis to expand the part that is squeezed on to the torsion bar. This might work better than brute-forcing it off.

Did you have any problem getting the bar off of the chassis after you removed the adjusting bolt?

Good point about the length. I think I have the right one, but will check.

[Bill]

Bruce -

For some info that may help, look for a post on the topic from commodor47 within the last several months. Maybe post #11 here?
http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ad.php?t=19003

Bill

[tentcamper]

Originally Posted by BrucePerens

Thanks for writing, there probably aren't many people with DIY experience for this.



I was thinking of clamping the lift bar end in a vise on the longer axis to expand the part that is squeezed on to the torsion bar. This might work better than brute-forcing it off.

Did you have any problem getting the bar off of the chassis after you removed the adjusting bolt?

Good point about the length. I think I have the right one, but will check.

I did not have to take the torsion bar out, just disconnect it from the lift arm.

No problem getting the lift bar out of the pocket when the roof was raised. I used the floor jack with at 2x4 cut to almost the length from jack to bottom of the upper shell. Very near the arm I was replacing, I raised the 2x4 until it was tight to the upper shell. I then removed the bolt on the upper shell and lift arm.

To play it safe and not twist the upper shell. I did the same thing to the other arm and bolt on the same side. But I left the other side's arms attached. The upper shell will rest on the arm end in the pocket without the bolt.

I then went to about the center between the two arms and jacked it up, this time I ran a 10" 2x4 across of the bottom of the shell to spread the weight of the 2x4 that ran down to the jack.

I jacked up the one side until the lift arm was free and I could pull it to the outside of the shell. I lowered the shell to about where it normally is, while DW held the one arm on the outside of the shell. The top of the arm I had wrapped in rags to avoid scratching the paint. close to where the one arm was out of the pocket I used another 2x4 cut to length to rest the shell when I removed the jack.

I then proceeded to used the jack and a short 2x4 to push the arm off the torsion bar. Side note: this year I was adjusting my arms and I found the inter arm on the center of the camper. Because of interference with the other arm. I had to cut the end of the 2x4 edge off at 45 degrees along one of the 3.5 inch edge. Leaving a flat area about 1/2 by 3.5