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02-07-2015, 07:39 AM
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#11
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Southeast of Houston, Texas
Posts: 1,089
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We didn't use the water pump much and after 10 years or so I had to replace the pump head. The symptoms were that the motor ran but nothing was pumped. It's been a while, but it wasn't terribly expensive (ordered the pump head off the internet) or difficult. It has worked fine since then.
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02-07-2015, 08:15 AM
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#12
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Greeley, Colorado
Posts: 314
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On the 2922 reaching the water pump is a bear of a job. Probably have to remove sink to get good access. So, try the "push with feet" trick first. I was ready to drive the 2.5 hours to my dealer to have the repair done, so I was very happy this trick worked!
__________________
Mark & Claudia - Greeley, Colorado
2016 Lance model 1995
2013 Ford Lariat F-150 Super Crew Eco-boost with 4x4 Off Road & Max Tow
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02-07-2015, 06:03 PM
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#13
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Chandler, AZ
Posts: 277
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Possible Plugged Pump Screen
Another possibility is a plugged pump inlet screen.
Unfortunately, the screen is located inside the tank fitting that supplies water to the pump. Attached are a couple of pictures of the screen that came from the factory in my 2010 3326. Ultimately, I replaced it with an easy-to-clean inline filter and put in a water tank clean-out port (AquaSaver).
There is really no good way to clean the water tank without a clean-out port.
For what it's worth.
Jerry
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Essie, Jerry and Lil' Bit the Mini Schnauzer-(now replaced by TWO Mini Schnauzers, Sassy and Schotzi)
2010 TM 3326 loaded for 3 day trip, 4955# GTW, 26 gal. water, 9.5 gal. LP, 530# Tongue Wt., 15" Dual Axle, TST Tire monitor, Hensley Cub Hitch
2004 Suburban 1500, 11,100# CGVW
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02-07-2015, 06:55 PM
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#14
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Somerset, OH
Posts: 1,868
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These pumps are self priming and can lift water like 5 to 9 feet in a line with no water. It sounds like either the input line is leaking and breaking the suction or the pump has failed. I have had two pumps fail and in both cases they did what you describe. One was from freeze.
They are not that expensive $70. I think Shureflo 2.8 gpm pumps may be hard to get because they came out with the new revolution pumps about 3 years ago. The new 3.0 gpm pump 4008 should have the same foot print, but slightly different. Check the sureflo web site to compare engineering drawings. I think the 3.0 gpm pump is the one you may want to look at if you need a pump. They claim it is more quite and uses less power, plus you pick up 0.2 gpm.
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Art & Joyce
Current camper: Motor Home
Previous: 2009, 3023-QB and 2003 2720
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02-09-2015, 03:19 PM
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#16
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Guest
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And this is why I come here, for all the great suggestions and troubleshooting.
So we worked on it yesterday and managed to determine that no lines were blocked. So we decided to take out the pump. Lucky for my husband, I have very small hands so I did the hard part. We took the pump completely apart and discovered that the drive assembly was somehow stuck instead of freely moving like it needed to be. My husband took that apart, cleaned it, hooked it all back up and sure enough it worked! We remounted it (probably the most difficult and time consuming part of the whole ordeal) and we have water now.
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02-09-2015, 04:37 PM
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#17
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Sunny Beaches of Los Angeles
Posts: 3,242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wbmiller3
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Bill,
That part (Head Assembly) is comprised of the housing, diaphragm, and pressure switch.
I had a pressure switch go bad on me one time and the symptom was the motor was reluctant to turn on without a little hit on the head. Turned out there was a leaking pipe above it, and the switch rusted out. The housing is fine unless it is visibly cracked (can't imagine why that would happen, it's fairly beefy), but my guess is the diaphragm is what was your problem.....the motor keeps running (which was what happened when my diaphragm tore) because it can't build up any pressure for the switch to turn it off.
The diaphragm can be bought separately for a fraction of the cost of that assembly. For anyone who may need it in the future, see here:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FQ7976
Not a bad idea to travel with one, actually. Cheap, lightweight, and can be replaced with a screwdriver and, in the models with the pump under the sink, a bit of blood from your arms.
Dave
__________________
2000 2720SL & 2007 3124KB
2005 Toyota Sequoia
Twin Battle Born 12v 100Ah LiFePO4 (BBGC2) batteries, 300W solar on rear shell, Link 10, Lift kit, Maxxis 8008 225 75/R15 E tires
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02-10-2015, 08:33 AM
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#18
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Southeast of Houston, Texas
Posts: 1,089
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Thanks for the suggestion. I kept the old head so I'll take it apart and see if the diaphragm was the problem.
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02-10-2015, 10:05 AM
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#19
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Somerset, OH
Posts: 1,868
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Great to hear you solve the problem. Happy camping. Test it out a few more times before your next trip.
__________________
Art & Joyce
Current camper: Motor Home
Previous: 2009, 3023-QB and 2003 2720
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10-08-2015, 05:49 PM
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#20
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New Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Naperville, Illinois
Posts: 4
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Regarding your water system, I had a similar problem in September, 2015. Got to the campground, no water out of kitchen sink or bathroom tub. Bathroom sink worked fine. I could not fix at campground so I took my 2720SL to my local TrailManor dealer. They replaced my kitchen and bathroom tub faucets. A person at the RV place told me that my problem was symptomatic of not being winterized properly. I thought I had done everything correctly, drained the water lines and my unit is garage kept. I thought that sediment had built up in the faucet valves and hardened. To prevent this in the future I purchased a water pressure control valve and a water filter for the water intake port and I am going to pump in some RV antifreeze before winter.
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