Battery and fridge operations

TMCamper1 · 05-29-2017, 08:27 AM

Hello TM friends,
we bought our 2720 a few years ago. Long story short, we ended up replacing the original fridge for a Dometic. It requires power all the time for the control panel. Electric works great (it had too on old unit) and gas started right up too ( that was not the case with original unit). Now I wanted to start the gas with the battery, and would not get power. I bought a new 27 series battery. One that came with unit was dead and never needed it with our minimum camping over last few years
I see there is an in-line 30 amp fuse extension on the battery's hot wire connector. I opened the fuse box and the fuse would not come out. I'm wondering if it froze in there due to corrosion. So I was just going to order a new in-line connector from TM parts , but just wondering if anyone has experience having to replace that. Thank you. Prior owner used AC 100% of the time so I think this fuse had been there since they bought it.

rvcycleguy · 05-29-2017, 08:46 AM

Should be an easy repair. The fuse should be replaced with a new type fuseable link with plug in type ATO fuse. That's probably what's is keeping the igniter on the propane side of the refrigerator from working.

To check it prior to that, you can plug the camper into the house electric with an extension cord, using an adapter, and the inverter will allow 12v service.

Rv

**Bill** · 05-29-2017, 09:07 AM

I bet you have the old cylindrical fuseholder. They are either black plastic or white nylon, and they are very prone to failure. You should replace it with the automotive fuseholder and 30-amp blade fuse that rvcycleguy mentioned. But don't buy it from TM. You can get it from WalMart, any hardware store, Home Depot, Lowes, etc, for a very few bucks. Buy a few extra fuses at the same time - I think they can be had in a box of 5.

Take a look at this picture in my Tech Stuff album.
http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...&pictureid=760

However, I should note that if everything else (interior lights, etc) works properly without AC "shore power", and only the refrig has a problem, then that fuse has not failed, and replacing it will not fix the problem. Can you clarify the situation a bit? Do the lights work even when the refrig won't?

Bill

TMCamper1 · 05-29-2017, 10:14 AM

Thank you rvcycleguy and Bill. I usually check but did not at first, so I just came back from hooking up the battery again and tried the interior lights. Nothing.
It is that long white plastic about 2" with a shorter black cap. The old style buss fuse did not fall out; that is why I suspected corrosion. Anyway, thanks for the tip to get the new style flat fuses. I will check the automotive section for the attachment. These are actually the kind that are inside in the converter box. Sorry, while typing this I cannot see your replies, but will reread so I make sure to get the correct in-line attachment for the battery wire.
I'll let you know how it turns out, hopefully tomorrow.

ps. should have mentioned first. Thanks to all you serviceman. God bless America.

TMCamper1 · 05-29-2017, 10:26 AM

RVCycleguy,
I did, by the way, try the new fridge and lights when on the house current and all worked just fine.

Bill, when I clicked on your link to view the picture, it said I did not have access to that section. Do you know what I need to do to view it? thank you

**Bill** · 05-29-2017, 01:13 PM

Quote:

Bill, when I clicked on your link to view the picture, it said I did not have access to that section. Do you know what I need to do to view it?

TMCamper1 -

When you joined the forum, you were designated a Trial Member and given 30 days of free access to the entire forum. This gave you a chance to evaluate the forum, and see if it met your needs. After that, you were expected to become a Site Sponsor if you wanted to retain access. The cost of Sponsorship is small, and Sponsor fees pay the expenses of the forum. Perhaps you've noted that no advertising is allowed here. At any rate, if your 30 day trial expires, and you don't become a Site Sponsor, you become a Registered Guest and your access is cut back to a small part of the forum.

You can go to the forum called Getting Started on the Board to find out how to join.

Bill

TMCamper1 · 06-01-2017, 07:04 AM

Update: Probably will install the new few later today or Friday.
I got an ATC (they tell me C is for closed) fuse holder from Walmart. The fuse is inside a plastic or rubber compartment. The wires were silver strands, so I'm guessing aluminum, and the coating was yellow. It is a Bussmann, same as Auto Zone carries.

Advanced Auto carries Littelfuse. Theirs was ATO (I think O is for open). You can see the fuse. This model uses copper strands and outside coating is red.

Trail Manor parts have always been helpful and much more responsive, which is a good sign to me that they are getting more organized. Anyway, their on-line parts list did not show a picture so they texted me what they carry. The description said ATC but it looked open to me. So they are checking that aspect. But maybe my understanding of what the C and O mean (per google) in ATC and ATO or not correct. Their coating was red. I could not see the strands though as it seemed it was a looped piece with the fuse holder in the middle. Only 96 cents but I'm sure shipping would take it over what I've already bought. I thought maybe I'd have to cut the wire in the middle to make my splices or maybe the picture just did not show that it has two ends. They are reviewing.

So,
I always thought it was bad to mix wires, so I was going to go with the Littelfuse which had the copper strands. Would you all agree with that? But that means using the ATO fuse holder where you can see the fuse (the fuse box does not have a cover to it), which was first recommended. But it is inside the trailer and inside a vented battery box, so is this okay?

Thanks again. Appreciate very much your time.

**Bill** · 06-01-2017, 08:32 AM

Quick notes

Closed is better. Good choice.
The silver strands are tinned copper, not aluminum. If you can solder the connections and then use heat shrink tubing over the joints, that is best. If not, be sure to use proper size wire nuts.

Bill

Gapopper · 06-04-2017, 05:26 AM

I just checked the operation of my fridge on 12 volts. Someone said to set it on battery the night before a trip. Plug in to shore power to run the converter. Just before leaving on your trip , unplug the shore power. Your tow vehicle will keep your battery charged until to get to your campsite. Your fridge will already be cold. I did this in the driveway. I placed a thermometer inside the fridge. It got down to 36.5 degrees. I just hope my truck keeps the battery charged.