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08-29-2012, 08:28 PM
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#11
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Guest
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I get my pex parts at home depot and some at ACE, it's best to keep a few extras in the tool kit. Make sure you get the cutters.
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08-29-2012, 11:39 PM
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#12
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Guest
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I bought my parts at the San Mateo/Foster City Home Depot, that should be pretty close if you live in the SF bay area. I should have just done all the work to replace my toilet in the parking lot at the Depot, it sure would have made for a lot less trips for parts.
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08-30-2012, 06:19 AM
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#13
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 342
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The PEX cutting tool is inexpensive and cuts the plastic pipe like butter. A must have when doing PEX work. I had to do some of this work on my new unit and I would cut right above the black band to save as much pipe length as possible. All you have to do when you do this is remove part of the previous "T" left inside the PEX pipe and this is not hard to do.
Like Bill said, the brass PEX elbows and tees are expensive but cheaper than getting the crimp tool if all you need to do is a few connections.
I also have one coupler, one tee and one elbow, plus a three foot section of PEX pipe, along with the cutting tool, in my unit as a plumbing first-aid kit.
__________________
2011, Model 2720SD, 13.5k btu Dometic Low Profile Penguin II with a user installed Easy-Start modification, "Jack" TV Antenna, 15" Goodyear Marathon 225/75R15D Tires on Alloy Wheels, Swing Hitch, Electric Tongue Jack, Front Window (now an option). Powered with a Honda 2000i or 3000 handi (depending on the weather) generator when dry camping. Powered with two 6V Trojan T145 batteries when I need to run silent and deep. TV = 2016 Toyota Tacoma Double Cab w/ WDH.
Home Port: Western New York.
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08-30-2012, 06:19 AM
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#14
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: The mountains of Scottsdale, AZ, and the beaches of Maine
Posts: 10,105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trisht
I confirmed the shore water pressure, post regulator, is 32-35 psi.
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As shown in this pic, the pressure in the TM plumbing can be higher than the pressure in the shore water hose because of the anti-backflow valve in the inlet.
http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...&pictureid=435
Quote:
Tons of HW stores around here but the nearest RV supply store with any sort of inventory is 45mins away.
Would still be interested to hear if anybody knows a good source for the PEX parts.
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As others have posted, I have found a ton of PEX parts at the big box stores, as well as ACE, Aubuchon, Do-It-Best, and most hardware stores. I'm surprised you are having trouble, but shop around. Of course, if you asked for "PVX", that would have confused them.
I also believe that you should not spend time thinking about RV supply stores. Since the parts you need are not RV-specific, RV stores will be much less well-equipped than a hardware store.
Bill
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08-30-2012, 01:47 PM
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#15
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Guest
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertkennel
I bought my parts at the San Mateo/Foster City Home Depot, that should be pretty close if you live in the SF bay area. I should have just done all the work to replace my toilet in the parking lot at the Depot, it sure would have made for a lot less trips for parts.
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That's funny! We've all had a few projects like that.
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08-30-2012, 01:49 PM
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#16
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Guest
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brittany Dogs
The PEX cutting tool is inexpensive and cuts the plastic pipe like butter. A must have when doing PEX work. I had to do some of this work on my new unit and I would cut right above the black band to save as much pipe length as possible. All you have to do when you do this is remove part of the previous "T" left inside the PEX pipe and this is not hard to do.
Like Bill said, the brass PEX elbows and tees are expensive but cheaper than getting the crimp tool if all you need to do is a few connections.
I also have one coupler, one tee and one elbow, plus a three foot section of PEX pipe, along with the cutting tool, in my unit as a plumbing first-aid kit.
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Thanks - good advice. Is the PEX cutter the same thing used to cut 3/4" PVC using in lawn sprinkler systems?
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08-30-2012, 01:57 PM
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#17
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Guest
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[QUOTE=Bill;97879]As shown in this pic, the pressure in the TM plumbing can be higher than the pressure in the shore water hose because of the anti-backflow valve in the inlet.
http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...&pictureid=435
Bill - do you think the anti-backflow valve could be a culprit (has that surfaced before in the forums?) What is an acceptable pressure inside the TM? btw, I haven't seen a noticeable change in pressure when running the sinks. Seems quite tame actually.
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08-30-2012, 05:58 PM
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#18
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Guest
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The tube cutter is a ratchet "type" cutter. As already said, if you don't have one, you'll be sorry. I used the brass connectors, more expensive but pretty much goof proof. Made it real easy to add a couple on/off valves.
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08-30-2012, 09:54 PM
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#19
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Guest
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I like the crimping tool. When I did my toilet change out you have to crimp the connections under the sink for example in the right order. I tapped off the hot water heater cold water supply under the sink to get water to the toilet. Many of the connections you can't crimp if they are in their final location. You have to assemble your run outside and then feed the assemble under the sink because there is no room to work the big crimping tool. The final crimp must be in a place to swing the arms of the tool.
The crimping tool is fast and reliable, but if you have to do a repair in a difficult place the brass fittings are a good thing to have in an emergency repair kit. Wrenches are smaller than the crimping tool. Robert
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08-31-2012, 12:03 PM
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#20
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Guest
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertkennel
The crimping tool is fast and reliable, but if you have to do a repair in a difficult place the brass fittings are a good thing to have in an emergency repair kit. Wrenches are smaller than the crimping tool. Robert
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No wrenches needed with the brass Robert, you just cut the tubing and slide it in. Not meaning to correct you, just want to be sure the OP knows that. It couldn't be any easier for plumbing dummies like me.
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