Dennis -
The drain valves in your original pix (post #6) don't look like the OEM drain valves. This suggests to me that an earlier owner modified the plumbing, as Shrimp Burrito suggested in post #7. The fourth valve should be forward of the valve in your third pic, a few feet forward of the tire. Given the location of the water tanks and the other plumbing, there is no other location that makes sense. Is there any sign of a patch that might cover a previously-existing hole in the aluminum? The patch might be small (a few inches on a side) if the previous owner decided to remove the valve for some reason. Or it might be quite large if, for example, a previous owner backed over a rock or a root and tore the aluminum skin on the underside. In that case, he might have removed a large section of the skin and replaced it, modifying the plumbing at the same time.
As was suggested, you need to get under the kitchen sink and look at the plumbing, looking especially for a tee that joins two pipes and goes out to that one drain valve. You also need to slide under the TM on your back and look for patches.
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I tried blowing thru the two rear drain valves with the two kitchen faucets open. They both were able to pass air. I then tried blowing thru them, one at a time, with all faucets closed. In both cases I got a small amount of water passing out of the drain not being blown on. Seems to indicate that there is a small amount of water being trapped in one of the lines even after going thru the draining procedure.
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This sounds like water that is still in the shower hoses - the outside shower and the bathroom shower. If the associated valves were not opened (and left open), the water would not drain from these hoses. Instead, it would gradually dribble down into the pipes that feed them. Did you drain those hoses before your test?
You still didn't answer the question about what is different from last year. If it worked last year, but doesn't work this year, what changed?
Bill
Linear Mode
