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Old 04-10-2005, 04:05 AM   #1
tritterbrew
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Default Question on 2720SL Slide

Hi,
We just bought (3 weeks ago) a used 2004 2720SL. Other than needing a bath, it's in perfect condition. However, when I went out to practice the opening/closing ritual I found that it took a lot of force to pull out the front slide. I weigh about 180 and I needed to put my weight into it to get it to slide all the way out. I eyeballed the leveling of the trailer so I may have been fighting a slight uphill battle. However, I thought I'd ask the experience of other people. I do know that the unit didn't get much use so I'm wondering if the hinges need attention?

Thanks,
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Old 04-10-2005, 06:23 AM   #2
RockyMtnRay
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 816
Default Leveling is very critical

Quote:
Originally Posted by tritterbrew
Hi,
We just bought (3 weeks ago) a used 2004 2720SL. Other than needing a bath, it's in perfect condition. However, when I went out to practice the opening/closing ritual I found that it took a lot of force to pull out the front slide. I weigh about 180 and I needed to put my weight into it to get it to slide all the way out. I eyeballed the leveling of the trailer so I may have been fighting a slight uphill battle. However, I thought I'd ask the experience of other people. I do know that the unit didn't get much use so I'm wondering if the hinges need attention?

Thanks,
The front slides on TMs are pretty heavy and gravity will have a big effect on how easy they are to fully pull out. Before trying again, be sure the trailer is absolutely level. If it's still stiff there are two areas to check for corrosion/binding/grunge...one is the hinges & pins that hold up the front of the slide; the other area is the rollers under the rear of the slide.

I've personally never had much difficulty pulling the slide out...can usually do it with just a gentle tug on the handle if the trailer is carefully leveled. But my trailer is stored inside my garage and I live in a very dry climate. I have towed on wet roads/in rainy weather a total of maybe a dozen times in 3 seasons...and only one of those wet towing experiences lasted more than about 20 to 30 minutes. All of which greatly reduce the amount of corrosion and grunge my trailer has been subjected to. Plus my trailer is not carpeted...if yours has carpeting in the front, the rollers on the rear of the slide will have more resistance than mine do.
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Ray

I use my TM as a base camp for hiking, kayaking, mountain biking, and climbing Colorado's 14ers


The Trailer: 2002 TM Model 2720SL ( Mods: Solar Panels (170 Watts), Dual T-105 Batteries, Electric Tongue Jack, Side AC, Programmable Thermostat, Doran TP Monitor System)

The Tow Vehicle: 2003 Toyota Tundra V8 SR5 4X4 w/Tow Package (Towing & Performance Mods: JBA Headers, Gibson Muffler, 4.30 gears, Michelin LTX M/S Tires, Prodigy Brake Controller, Transmission Temperature Gauge)


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Old 04-10-2005, 10:40 AM   #3
Denny_A
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Location: Greenville, WI
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tritterbrew
Hi,
We just bought (3 weeks ago) a used 2004 2720SL. Other than needing a bath, it's in perfect condition. However, when I went out to practice the opening/closing ritual I found that it took a lot of force to pull out the front slide. ................ I do know that the unit didn't get much use so I'm wondering if the hinges need attention?
I live in a hostile climate. Cold, rainy, humid...etc. at different times of the year. Rust is a problem, but my slide out never was difficult to open. If the slideout doesn't move straight out initially (skews a bit) then it can feel as if it has brakes of its own. Check for skew by sighting along eithe edge of the slideout and comparing alignment with the trailer wall. If you can see an obvious angle between the two verticle surfaces, it's going to be difficult to move w/out correction.

I always found it easiest to start motion by pulling on the handle and the outboard portion of one of the rotating support beam. The first motion will skew the slideout slightly. Then I'd do the same on the opposite side. By the time the skew is eliminated, a continuous straight pull on the handle allows the slideout to continue to nearly full extention. Finally, I would occasionally need to give a tug on each support beam to finish the last inch or two of travel so that the inside locking pins could be inserted w/out using a few expletives.

I made a mark on the slideout(at the end of the trailer box; each side), after engaging the locking pins. Since then, before going inside, I could confirm from the outside that the pins would engage on the first attempt.

Re: Ray's comment... carpet and roller effect... that isn't a problem. There is a steel strip under each roller. The only possible resistance, as a function of the carpet, is the rubber sweep friction as it drags on the carpet. But, in my experience, it certainly must not have been much of an effect.

Denny_A
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Old 04-10-2005, 12:07 PM   #4
tritterbrew
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Default

Thanks for the info. I'll check it out this week when we go back out to pick-up the TM from storage so that we can get the State inspection.

Regards,
Ted R.
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Old 04-10-2005, 08:41 PM   #5
Senorsedona
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Smile Slide

And don't forget the Silicon spray.............inside.

Good Luck....................Jack
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Old 04-11-2005, 05:53 AM   #6
Queeniereads
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We were not level yesterday and it took two of us to pull it out. Get it level and then apply those stick on levelers. Queeniereads aka Judi
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