setting brakes on a 2011 2720

I pulled our 2720 out from storage last weekend and towed it to our spring\summer parking spot. This was the first time i moved it since buying it
last October, i tested our new P3 brake contoller and ultimately had to turn the
brake setting up to 9.3 (techonsha recomends starting at 6.0) just to get minimal
braking. This doesnt seem right. How do i check brake adjustments,and is it hard to readjust? Thanks for any and all advise.

Raddad

I am curious, were you moving when you tested it. I know with mine they suggest 30 mph to test the brakes as there is a sensor that senses the tv slowing down and that is what actuates the trailer's brakes. If you were sitting still and just pulling forward you will get false readings.

Check the manual that came with the TM. I you do not have it, you can go to the dexter website. There are also threads here on brake adjustment. It is not hard. Also check the wiring under the TM to make sure you have good connections. Many TMs have wire nuts on the brake wiring and they can corode and impact brake operation.

If I recall correctly from other threads, this is not uncommon. I don't get mine to lock until I'm at 11 volts. And that is after I adjusted the trailer brakes. Several people have said that their brakes never lock up even at 12 volts.

Keith

[T and C]

Originally Posted by raddad

I pulled our 2720 out from storage last weekend and towed it to our spring\summer parking spot. This was the first time i moved it since buying it
last October, i tested our new P3 brake contoller and ultimately had to turn the
brake setting up to 9.3 (techonsha recomends starting at 6.0) just to get minimal
braking. This doesnt seem right. How do i check brake adjustments,and is it hard to readjust? Thanks for any and all advise.

Raddad

Raddad,

You might want to adjust the brake shoes on your TM. When I got mine in 2010 the brakes had been adjusted by Custom RV. After 18 months and about 12,000 miles of use I noticed a considerable reduction in braking force when I applied the little lever under the controller. I asked the folks here and they kindly told me what to do.

1. Use your bottle jack or whatever to raise one tire off the ground. Then put your levelling jacks down on that side so it can't fall off the jack.

2. Pull the plug on the back of the brake drum backing plate and use a screwdriver or brake adustment tool to turn the star thingy until the wheel binds and won't turn. I believe that you move the screwdriver handle down to tighten it. You can look through the hole with a flashlight to see if you are turning the thing in the "tighten" direction. If it won't turn any further and the wheel still turns, you probably went in the wrong direction.

3. Once the wheel binds up back it off 3-4 notches or until the wheel turns freely.

4. Put the plug back in and repeat the process on the other side.

I am 70 and I did this myself last week. I had not adjusted drum brakes since the 1960's, but it worked just fine. When I tested them there was a considerable improvement.

Another option is to have an RV place do it as well as lubing the bearings.

Tom

Just don't use the bottle jack on the axle.

I lift the wheel with the leveling jacks alone. They are strong enough on the newer Trailmanors. Not sure about the older ones.

Originally Posted by brulaz

Just don't use the bottle jack on the axle.

I lift the wheel with the leveling jacks alone. They are strong enough on the newer Trailmanors. Not sure about the older ones.

For my 2005 TM 2720 I have used the corner jacks on the curb side to lift the TM to change the tire.