Refrigerator on propane problem

[Bill]

RotorWash -

That's a good diagram and text that you provided. Just to be clear, does the spark jump downward, from the end of the electrode to the notched metal area where the gas exits? Or does it jump upward, into the thermocouple area? I think that "down" is the correct answer, but my TM is closed and in storage at the moment.

I agree that the Norcold diagram (Art00955) is pretty poor, but I think I've figured it out. The number 3 in a circle has two arrows associated with it. The long one, extending from the number 3, points to the top of the gas tube just to the right of the notched area where the gas exits. The short one points to the bottom of the burner electrode. Between the tips of the arrow is the gap. However, I believe that the spark must not jump the gap at the location of the arrows. It must jump from the tip of the electrode (which is buried in the flame) to the notched area. Do you agree?

By the way, although the diagram Art00955 is on page 18 of the manual, the text that discusses it is way back on page 8. I wish Norcold wouldn't do that.

Bill

[rotor_wash]

Downward is correct to ignite the gas coming out of the notched portion of the burner tube.

hi everyone. we're having the same trouble lighting our refridge. we've tried the troubleshooting techniques listed but are not sure where to look for the pilot light. do we have to take off the sheet metal under the exhaust to see the pilot.

please forgive me for not searching further. we're in Glacier NP and using a tiny cell phone scren to access the web

thank you!
trish and mike

Since your TM is new, the problem may (hopefully) be with technique rather than hardware. Make sure your propane tanks are full and turned on. Light your stove burners to assure there is gas flow. Then, turn the refer dial to gas, hold down the button (green?) and spark the igniter. Continue holding down the button while clicking the igniter every 5 seconds or so. When the red indicator on the gauge begins to move, continue to hold the green button in until the red indicator moves completely into the green zone on the gauge and stabilizes. Then when you release the button the red indicator should stay in the green zone and your refer should be on!

thanks for your quick reply-Scott. unfortunately neither that or Harvey's (?) tip of waiting 100 seconds has worked. that's why were wondering how to find the pilot light so we can try lighting with a long butane lighter.

There is NO pilot light, the burner is either on or it's off. To light the refrig with a lighter some one has to be inside the TM holding in the bypass button while you use the lighter to light the burner and then continue to hold it in until the flame meter reaches the green. There is a small cover over the access hole to the burner that has to be moved aside to reach the burner. Also, set the temp to highest setting "5" to increase the gas flow and make it easier to light.

Ed

this worked. so very awesome. many, many thanks!!!

[Wavery]

Originally Posted by trisht

this worked. so very awesome. many, many thanks!!!

That means your igniter is either bad or needs to be checked out. Could just be a bad ground.....

[Bill]

Now that you have found the burner access port, you are probably good to go for the rest of your trip. When you get home, and have time and space, you should be able to peer into this port and see the spark when someone snaps the button inside. What you want to see is that a) the spark actually happens, and b) that the location of the spark is in the middle of the pilot flame. The igniters are pretty tough, although a bad ground is possible, as Wayne said. But is is easy for the spark electrode to get displaced just a little bit, enough that the spark doesn't encounter the gas.

Bill

[rickst29]

Originally Posted by Digger

There is NO pilot light, the burner is either on or it's off.... Also, set the temp to highest setting "5" to increase the gas flow and make it easier to light.

The burner (and the dial-to-adjust needle valve which sets the flow rate, on the front panel) ARE everyday water heater "pilot light" components. Gas flow is set with a #10 needle valve, adjusted by the dial on the front. (It connects DIRECTLY to the needle.) In today's typical water heaters, they let this burner run continuously -- because most of the heat flows upwards and helps to keep the water warm. At a maximum burn rate of about 650 BTUH, our "pilot light" is a bit larger than some- but not unusual, not at all.

Ed's suggestion is really good. When flame isn't yet present, and the metal is cold, it's a good idea to turn it all the way up when you attempt to light it.