damage and value of 2619 - Page 2

Padgett · 12-08-2016, 07:49 AM

Here in Florida a "salvage" title is the kiss of death, most people won't touch one.

I have been through the insurance bit before and have never surrendered my title on a "totaled but keep". What happens is that once the Ins Co has the title a Salvage title costs them $7 vs $70 (10X) for a clean one so here you never surrender the title unless giving the vehicle to the Insurance co.

So the question is did the PO buy it with a salvage title ? Again here in Florida, if you have the VIN you can check the Florida DMV web site for when the title was issued & if there is a lien.

JimColorado · 12-08-2016, 08:33 AM

Thanks Shane. I will try to contact Trailmanor and get an estimate on a ready-to-go panel.

flipflop · 12-08-2016, 03:09 PM

If everything works and the cosmetic damage is the only problem seems like it's worth an offer. Can you run water through it this time of year and make sure everything works with no leaks? It's easy to drain everything once you've tested.

That pic, there's no LP tanks or batteries on it, obviously the seller will have to put those on so you can test.

You reselling might not be a problem if you can doll it up a bit, and you won't have a salvage title, correct? You'll be issued a fresh title?

I think these TM's are hard to find close to home, so even with cosmetic damage (as long as you're sure you won't look at it every day and be disgusted) seems like it's worth an offer. If it has a 40g water tank, that's a bonus (although I suppose one could order a 40g tank from TM and slap it in)

rvcycleguy · 12-08-2016, 03:26 PM

I'm under the impression that salvage title is forever...

RV

**Bill** · 12-08-2016, 04:05 PM

Jim -

A couple observations from the picture in Post #2.

The "crease" appears to extend behind the rear window, all the way to the rear edge of the shell. I'm not sure this makes much difference, but it means the branch (or whatever) scraped along the length of the window, which should be checked for fit and damage.

The black dot about 8 inches aft of the word "TrailManor" is a bolt that goes through the wall, and I believe that it secures the pocket stop inside the wall. The pocket stop is the pivot point for the shell as it goes up and down. If you decide to bid/buy, you should set it up and down a few times, and listen for scraping noises inside the wall at this location.

By the way, I am in total agreement with Shane that the way to fix it is to get a new outer skin, with paint and graphics in place. This makes much more sense than trying to replace the entire wall, although that is certainly what the insurance company asked for. Shipping a new skin from Nebraska to Colorado will be interesting, of course, but it can be done. I'm not sure how you would glue it to the old skin, but I'm sure that can be done, too. The good news, I think, is that the windows are used by many manufacturers on their own RVs and trailers, and so are almost certainly built to accommodate various wall thicknesses.

And I was only partially kidding about the mural ...

Bill

JimColorado · 12-08-2016, 08:43 PM

Checked with Trailmanor today and they said the epoxy idea would not work. The differential heating of the outer skin versus the inner damaged skin would cause the two to epoxy bond to fail very quickly.

rvcycleguy · 12-09-2016, 06:37 AM

Interesting answer. I'm sure they are the experts in that regard. Something that I noticed in the photo you have of the TM damage. Bill remarked about the bolt or nut that would be on the outside wall there near the damage that is attached to the lifting arm there. If I'm seeing the image correctly, its missing. And the one on the rear roof as well, as near as I can tell on the photo....On that year model, they're somewhat prominent bolt head design, shape and color. As someone has also pointed out, the propane tanks are missing, which in my opinion, is another tell tale sign of a vehicle that has not been maintained, or alludes to more issues than you are being made aware of.

Without them, you can't test the refrigerator, furnace, water heater on that mode. They may work on electric only.

I'd pass on this TM.

rvcycleguy · 12-09-2016, 06:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimColorado

Checked with Trailmanor today and they said the epoxy idea would not work. The differential heating of the outer skin versus the inner damaged skin would cause the two to epoxy bond to fail very quickly.

Well you could use fasteners to attach the outer skin. I had the front right-side corner separate and had to use a fastener repair. The front cap, so to speak, has that curve edge and it doesn't just press fit back together.

Just my opinion.

RV

Shane826 · 12-09-2016, 08:04 AM

Yeah it could also be attached during rivet nuts. The outer trim will keep the edges in place. All you really need is to keep the aluminum from flapping in the breeze. I know we did this with the sliding door in our minivan when my wife tangled with the iron drop-gate on a delivery van. The damage looked almost identical to this TM, it was purely cosmetic but looked terrible. We re-skinned the door over the old one. Epoxy held fine, that was 7+ years ago.

Padgett · 12-09-2016, 08:17 AM

OK we have a 12 year old smaller TM that does not have a slide. I have a feeling that the insurance company totaled it, the PO removed what was portable (e.g. tanks) and let them have it.

Insurance co got a salvage title and wholesaled it out. It is unlikely the PO paid more than $2k (maybe as low as $1k without a normal title), has done nothing, and is flipping.

If you really want it I'd put a max of $2500 since know you have to replace things (and check the awning out carefully, that is a $1k replacement. Check for batteries, converter function, microwave function, and tires. For checkout take a propane jug and a big jump box with you. Deduct for anything found deficient.

Crease appears just cosmetic but check the windows carefully.

Just remember the old adage: "The most expensive thing you will ever buy is something that has a cheap price."