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  #11  
Old 12-07-2015, 12:35 PM
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Bill Bill is offline
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My guess is that there are two purposes.
1. To spread the load of the unit's weight across the roof structure.
2. To keep you from hitting your head on the inside parts.

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  #12  
Old 12-07-2015, 06:32 PM
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Oh then the air handler must be recessed so the rear module can slide under it when folding. I keep forgetting the roof is only 1" thick (originally thought it was 3").
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  #13  
Old 12-08-2015, 04:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by truesdac View Post
Thanks for the replies. I agree that taking the wheels off and lowering it on the corner jacks will probably work and I will probably go with that solution initially. I was looking for an easier way.

Short of buying a TM without an air conditioner (not practical in the South) or buying an older model without the side air conditioner, I was looking into the difficulty of replacing the factory unit, which adds 14-1/2", with a new low profile or ultra-low-profile unit.

Two examples are the Dometic Penguin II, which claims only 9-1/2" above roof line or the Coleman Mach 8 (http://www.rvcomfort.com/rvp/products/rooftop/mach8.php), which claims only 8" above roof line. The inside part of these (using 2" into the trailer) may be the limiting factor. Any experience with these?

Charlie
Charlie,

As previously posted, I also would not be comfortable supporting the weight of the trailer on the stabilizer jacks. Given the length of the frame and weight of the trailer, it's very likely that you could twist or distort the frame over time.

Dave
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  #14  
Old 12-08-2015, 08:18 AM
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Agree cantilever forces would be pretty bad but a pair of bottle jacks on the frame close to the axle plus the levelers should be NP.
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