Has anyone moved AC unit?

07-29-2003, 01:19 PM

We have a 2001 3023, Is is possible to move the A/C unit to the front shell like the new trailer?
I can't sleep without air, and I can't sleep with the air unit over my head making all the racket.

Does anyone know if there is a new low pro unit that can be installed? If anyone has had sucess moving the Dometic Duo-therm Brisk Air Unit it would be very helpful.

I can do the wiring myself, I Just don't know about the clearance issues.
Any advise would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Doug

**Bill** · 07-29-2003, 05:16 PM

Best thing to do is contact Jimmy Davis at the factory. You will have two issues. One is that the shift in weight will require hefty adjustment (and possibly replacement) of the torsion bars that counterbalance the front and rear shells. The other is that you'll have a whopper of a hole in the roof of the rear shell that will need to be filled and patched.

My 2002 has the Duo Therm 579 Brisk Air on the front shell. Shortly after mine was built, the factory did move to a slightly lower-profile unit, from Coleman, I believe. I'm not sure offhand what model - perhaps the Mach 3 - but someone will post the answer. It saved only an inch or two in height, IIRC, but in a garage situation, that can make all the difference.

Bill

07-30-2003, 07:50 AM

Thanks for the information,

Internal Shell Clearance is another issue I have concern with. Is there enough room between the shells for the air conditioner to fit. My AC unit drops approx 2 inches.

When I took the lower cover off of the ac unit seemed to be mounted only in the space of a normal sky light. I was thinking of putting the unit in the space up front where one of the sky lights are mounted and moving one of the skylights back to the rear bed.

Thanks again, Doug

**BobWilson** · 07-30-2003, 10:30 AM

That seems like a lot of work and expense to solve the major issue which is noise.

What I do is wear those industrial foam ear plugs. They are soft disposable foam that easily conforms to the ear canal.

It may take a few nights to get used to it but I wear them all night without a problem even at home or for taking naps at lunch in the office. It works great and they are cheap. Check at Home Depot or other stores selling tools. They come in different softnesses and shapes.

Hope this helps.

**Bill** · 07-30-2003, 11:12 AM

[quote author=bulin3023 link=board=1;threadid=1073;start=0#msg7433 date=1059573049]Internal Shell Clearance is another issue I have concern with. Is there enough room between the shells for the air conditioner to fit. My AC unit drops approx 2 inches.[/quote]No, there is not sufficient space between the shells, at least on mine. The front-mounted A/C is "jacked up" on a spacer-frame on top of the roof, so that inside, everything is flush with the ceiling. I believe (though I can't prove it at the moment) that the spacer-frame is a standard product, or you might get one from the TM factory, so you are not looking at cobbling anything up yourself - but you *will* need to use one.

Bill

**bell** · 07-30-2003, 06:47 PM

You will need a wiring harness and a collar and a deflector. Jim Davis has all the answers on how to do the job.

07-31-2003, 07:21 AM

Thank you everyone, I have spoken to Jimmy Davis as suggested.
He stated that the cost is just too high and the modifications would be extensive.

With the brisk air unit, I would have to change air units. Approx cost $2500
with the parts and labor involved. Jimmy advised the money would be better spent towards a trade for a new trailmanor.

I think I will pick up a box of ear plugs for now.

Please check my new posting if you have any advise on installing an outside shower unit.
I have ordered the parts needed from trail manor, I would like some pictures of the back of a 3023 with an outside shower so I can mount to appear factory. Thanks.

07-31-2003, 04:32 PM

Though this is settled I guess, I kinda wonder if he could use the same AC unit, with the riser, and simply have the torsion bars in the rear moved to the front clam shell, and the ones in the front clam shell moved to the rear? Then only slight adjustments would need to be made as far as the torsion bars are concerned. But dunno if they're longer in the front than in the rear as the front clam shell sits an inch or two higher than the rear one. Of course you'd still have the labor of fixing the old hole, and cutting the new one........ And YES! I'm VERY familiar with those little foam earplugs. They do work well, and I can sure attest to that. In basic training, I fell asleep for about a half hour with them in on the hand grenade range waiting on my turn! LOL!
Just a thought or two............

[glow=red,2,300]Happytrails.......[/glow]

**mjlaupp** · 08-05-2003, 09:28 AM

Quote:

Though this is settled I guess, I kinda wonder if he could use the same AC unit, with the riser, and simply have the torsion bars in the rear moved to the front clam shell, and the ones in the front clam shell moved to the rear?

There are additional modifications needed to add internal supports to the front shell roof to carry the additional load. This is where most of the $$ is accounted for.
MJL

08-05-2003, 04:20 PM

Interesting, hadn't thought about that, I do know however, the supports in the front shell go all the way to the outside edges. (The framework in the ceiling around your vent). I guess if the hole's bigger, that would have to be cut out, and modified somehow. Yes, I imagine the ear plugs would be the best way to go!

[glow=red,2,300]Happytrails......[/glow]