How to test electric brakes on 2007 2619

ChillEDog · 03-12-2013, 01:13 PM

Just bought a 2007 2619. During the transaction, the seller rode with me around the block and commented the electric brakes did not seem to be working.

I understand there are brake controllers that you can install in your vehicle, but it is not required. I don't have anything like that. TV is 2003 GMC Yukon.

Can anyone please recommend how to test the brakes ?

Thank you.

Redtail Cruiser · 03-12-2013, 01:37 PM

Hey ChillEDog,

I believe you will need to install an aftermarket brake controller. I installed a Prodigy2 on my F150 and it was easy to install, program and test. I'm sure others will tell you more than I can.

Good luck

Tim

2007 2720 swing tongue, 40 gallon water tank, new 15 in.tire upgrade, upper cabinets, microwave drawer AC and awning.

TV 2003 F150 5.4L 4x4 tow package w/ Prodigy 2

LoveToCamp · 03-12-2013, 02:51 PM

Just a wild guess, but if you are trying to test the electric brakes, and you don't have a controller; what if you first drove a few feet normally, stopped, then pulled the safety pin out of the emergency activator? Then, drive a few feet, and see if you feel any resistance that was not there before. That seems like it would indicate if they activate.

Granted, a low-budget way to test them, and it requires the battery to be charged, but in a pinch, this should show if the brakes activate electronically, wouldn't it?

**Bill** · 03-12-2013, 05:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChillEDog

I understand there are brake controllers that you can install in your vehicle, but it is not required. TV is 2003 GMC Yukon.

Thank you.

ChillEDog -

The 2003 Yukon is a big vehicle, but it is not THAT big. The Yukon will weigh somewhere around 6000 pounds when you are ready to go. The TM will weigh somewhere around 4000 pounds. Without Trail Manor brakes, you will be asking the Yukon to stop almost twice as much weight as it was designed for. NO NO NO!

You must add an aftermarket brake controller. This is not optional. As has been mentioned, a Prodigy is a great choice. Looks for the words "inertial" or "proportional". There are cheaper controllers, but be sure to steer away from any that say "time" or "delay" or "progressive".

You would do well to read the article in the TM Tech Library at
http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ead.php?t=2830
There are several other articles in the library you might read as well.

Bill

03-12-2013, 06:34 PM

You absolutely need a brake controller as Bill said. In the mean time, jack up one wheel at a time and spin the wheel. Then pull the pin on the break away switch. The brake should engage. Then do the other wheel. This is assuming you have a good battery in the TM.

ChillEDog · 03-12-2013, 10:57 PM

Got it. Buy brake controller. Thank you.

So next question - do the brakes not work by virtue of being plugged into TV hitch receptacle ? I assumed once plugged in, you were good to go. per Bill's post it sounds like the answer is "no".

hillbillyhotel · 03-13-2013, 04:51 AM

For the most part , they do not unless you was lucky enuff to have gotten on your tv from factory, matter of fact after reading your post it reminded me that i needed to get one after we upgrded to a larger tm last yr,
even with the beast of a tv , i could tell i needed to get one for safety, and protect my investment, trucks and tm's don't come cheap, ordered last night , e-bay $120. W/wireing/ free shipping,

Brittany Dogs · 03-13-2013, 08:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChillEDog

Got it. Buy brake controller. Thank you.

So next question - do the brakes not work by virtue of being plugged into TV hitch receptacle ? I assumed once plugged in, you were good to go. per Bill's post it sounds like the answer is "no".

The tow vehicle needs to have the brake controller wired such that the foot brake switch tells the controller that the tow vehicle is engaging the brakes. The other thing the controller is wired into is the +12 volts from the battery such that it can proportionally apply current to the trailer brake magnets depending on the amount of stopping you need done at a particular time or condition.

The controller also needs a real good vehicle ground (negative) to work well.

Lastly, the blue output wire from the brake controller goes to the trailer, through the 7 pin round connector, to feed both trailer brakes the proportional current drive to activate the brake magnets.

To address your question, if all connections are good and the controller is adjusted to the manufacturer's directions, yes, you should be good to go.

Make note that brake controllers generally do not change the voltage applied to the brakes. If you noticed above, I used the term "current" to indicate that the job of the controller is to apply 12 volts with a varying amount of current, generally from almost zero to 6 or 7 amps. So if you attempt to test the controller by only taking a voltage test, you may not get the full answer if the controller is working or not.

03-13-2013, 09:53 AM

Check your TV manual. Some of the new larger TV's come with a cable that plugs in to the TV electrical system then runs to the brake controller. This provides the foot brake signal into the controller and the output from the controller to the 7 pin connector near the hitch. BUT you still need a controller. If your vehicle did not come with a cable ask your TV dealer if one is available. It makes a much cleaner installation.

**rickst29** · 03-13-2013, 09:25 PM

They are put there so that you can brake the Trailer independet of the TV brakes for example, in case it is skidding the the side. In such a case, it is best to brake the Trailer much harder than the TV, by using the lever. The TV stays a bit faster, and pulls the "dragging" Trailer back in line. So if you get a good one (the Tekonsha "Prodigy" is very popular among TM owners; I love it), the you can and should test that your Trailer brakes are working - every time you begin towing.

First Test: push the lever, and feeling the the Trailer resists movement of the TV quite strongly. Then (2nd test) Release the lever and start moving slowly (5 MPH); stop, and verify that the Trailer creates "Drag" on the TV while you are stopping. As you begin towing, test again (3d test) at roughly 20 MPH. Feel the Trailer pulling on the TV, a bit, when you apply the brakes with moderately light force, as you slow to a stop.

You always want the Trailer braking to be at least as "strong" as the TV braking -- otherwise, the Trailer tries to push the TV whenever you apply the brakes. (And that's something you absolutely don't want, the Trailer trying to control the TV.)
You should also, I think, search for Threads about "setting the prodigy controller", and read them carefully.
- - - -
I feel that you should be sure to buy a more expensive "proportional" brake controller, such as the Prodigy, and take some time to set it up. The cheaper "time delay" controllers cause more wear and tear on the brakes, and the Time Delay can be catastrophic if you need to apply the brakes HARD AND IMMEDIATELY, in an emergency.