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02-17-2015, 03:34 PM
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#51
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Guest
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Thank you.
Lots of good info here. I had the 7 pin wired for the backup wife. It now works.
I'll need to practice in a parking lot and I'm thinking need to install a permanent rear view camera on the trailer.
On the home stretch now...
Any recommendations in a website to find/reserve camp sites?
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02-17-2015, 05:55 PM
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#52
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Guest
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So Davlin, what do you call your td?
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02-17-2015, 09:10 PM
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#53
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Centennial, Colorado
Posts: 885
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Zartoon, it depends on what type of camping you want to do. If you want to camp in National Forest campgrounds, recreation.gov is the site for doing that.
Won't vouch for it, but I have a private endeavor bookmarked. Have not looked at it recently, so I am not sure how complete it is.
For commercial campgrounds, I would search the town you will be in, with "campgrounds", and see what comes up.
Enjoy!
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02-20-2015, 06:35 PM
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#54
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Havre Montana
Posts: 122
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Quote:
My two cents on backing a trailer. Easiest way to learn is to put your hand on the BOTTOM of the steering wheel. Now look in your rear view mirror, and move your hand in the direction you want the back of the trailer to move. To move the rear of the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right, which is turning the wheel to the left. It does work, and avoids the confusion of which way to steer while looking in reverse.
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Posted earlier by Mister P; this works great. I started backing this way and it was so much easier putting my hand at the bottom of the steering wheel as stated above. And if I have a spotter they needs to point which way the back of the trailer needs to go, saying right or left when looking in the rear mirror gets me confused, so hand signals work for me.
__________________
2010 2619 TM
2012 Dodge Dakota
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02-23-2015, 03:41 PM
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#55
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Valencia, CA
Posts: 97
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I'm fairly local!
Welcome, Zartoon! I'm a long time trailer camper, but still awaiting delivery on our TM. I'm over in Valencia, and would be happy to help in any way I can, but you are getting good advice here from experienced owners.
My only quibble might be that if you dry camp a lot, you might want to consider dual batteries rather than a single if your budget and room on the tongue allows. A pair of 6 volt flooded lead/acid golf cart batteries wired in series for about 220 Amp/hrs of 12 volt storage are the conventional default solution, but I have no qualms about modern AGM deep cycles as long as you have a charger set up for them. There are slight differences in recommended charge voltages, and you don't equalize an AGM. In any case, and at the risk of telling you something you may already know, don't buy compromised "Marine/starting" type batteries, but true deep cycle types in whatever style you choose. I personally like Trojan, Crown, or DEKA deep cycles, but there are lots of choices out there.
You can get battery boxes at Amazon or Wal-Mart, or a local RV store like Camping World.
Jim
__________________
3124KB delivered 5/2015 - early unit from Nebraska. TM installed Dometic compressor fridge, lower battery rails, 4AWG batt cable, and PD converter during build. Custom RV installed cassette toilet, two 260 AH 6V batts, 2 UniSolar 64 solar panels, Morningstar MPPT controller/meter.
Tow vehicle: 2016 Ram 1500 Outdoorsman CC 4x4 3.0 diesel.
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02-24-2015, 11:27 PM
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#56
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Guest
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Thank you skyjim.
The battery I got is a marine but it isn't agm. It is flooded. Interstate group 27. Paid $105.
Right now, I just needed something light that would work. I figure I will gauge what kind of camping we will do first.
Wife got sick so haven't done the ring out trip yet.
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02-24-2015, 11:49 PM
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#57
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Valencia, CA
Posts: 97
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Yeah, we can't wait to do our first shakedown/debug trip... hopefully within a month or so.
__________________
3124KB delivered 5/2015 - early unit from Nebraska. TM installed Dometic compressor fridge, lower battery rails, 4AWG batt cable, and PD converter during build. Custom RV installed cassette toilet, two 260 AH 6V batts, 2 UniSolar 64 solar panels, Morningstar MPPT controller/meter.
Tow vehicle: 2016 Ram 1500 Outdoorsman CC 4x4 3.0 diesel.
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03-02-2015, 01:30 PM
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#58
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Guest
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Moving right along. Last weekend was washing all curtains and general clean-up.
Here are a few more questions.
1. Sewer drain. It is missing cap. Is it 3"? And what should I look for? If there is a preferred cap, I'd appreciate the info.
2. 110V for dry camping. So I learned that it does not have a 12 to 110 inverter.
How do folks get 110 when dry camping?
I've been looking at te Honda/Yamaha/champion 2000W generators.
Thoughts on this?
3. The latches to close (the bar that hooks into the hook with the handle to keep it closed when towing) are all loose. They also look like they were moves because there are many holes and some are missing screws. What is a good repair on this? I was thinking of installing a steel strap, about 1/4" and threading it for machine screws. Any ideas?
4. Fridge door. Not sure what the thing looks like that holds the fridge door closed during towing. Can anyone post a picture?
Thank you all, really looking forward to taking this out. I'm tired of just workin g on it.
Z
Last weekend
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03-02-2015, 02:24 PM
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#59
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: New Braunfels, Texas
Posts: 919
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zartoon
Moving right along. Last weekend was washing all curtains and general clean-up.
Here are a few more questions.
1. Sewer drain. It is missing cap. Is it 3"? And what should I look for? If there is a preferred cap, I'd appreciate the info.
2. 110V for dry camping. So I learned that it does not have a 12 to 110 inverter.
How do folks get 110 when dry camping?
I've been looking at te Honda/Yamaha/champion 2000W generators.
Thoughts on this?
3. The latches to close (the bar that hooks into the hook with the handle to keep it closed when towing) are all loose. They also look like they were moves because there are many holes and some are missing screws. What is a good repair on this? I was thinking of installing a steel strap, about 1/4" and threading it for machine screws. Any ideas?
4. Fridge door. Not sure what the thing looks like that holds the fridge door closed during towing. Can anyone post a picture?
Thank you all, really looking forward to taking this out. I'm tired of just workin g on it.
Z
Last weekend
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1. Available at an RV store. Standard size. It should have a strap that screws to a bracket so it hangs or dangles when in use.
2. When dry camping, unless you use a generator, you don't have 110v power. A 2000w gen will operate all except the AC. Plug the main camper power cord into the gen. You have 2 electrical service on the TM. All lights are 12v and will operate using the on board battery. The 110v is only available using full hook ups or a generator.
3. Please post a photo if possible.
__________________
rvcycleguy
TM-2002 3124KB
TV-2003 Toyota Tundra V8 4.7L. Fact. Tow Pkg, air bags
2006 Suzuki Boulevard C50c Motorcycle- crashed- parted out
1956 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 Motorcycle-sold
2006 Harley Road King
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03-02-2015, 07:15 PM
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#60
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Orlando
Posts: 2,796
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Just some opinions - if going to run the a/c you need 2500W or better surge.
If not going to run the A/C, the next largest single load is the Microwave/Oven: 1300W Grille/Bake and 980W for the Microwave. Any of the crop of 2000/1650 gens will work but most serious RVers use the Honda eu2000. You do pay more for it (two can be ganged to run the A.C).
Yamaha is considered intermediate and then you have all of the bargain basement Orientals: Predator, Champion, etc. Usually a lower price but if they work for a weekend they generally work for a long time. Everything responds well to proper maintenance.
Next down are the 1000 watt generators. If you use the propane a lot then it would probably be enough.
As to inverters, Harbor Freight has quite a few. Just about everything uses a switcher so you get a modified sine rather than a pure sine wave but anything with an external power supply or wall wart should be able to handle. Only problem I've seen is with some analog clocks.
A 200W will handle most current TVs and small electronics. Just be aware that if the device pulls 2A at 120v that is going to be 20A at 12v. Plus losses.
With a 2kw inverter you could run the Microwave/Oven but not for long. The good news is that motern inverters don't use much power for themselves, just figure 110% for the Watts and convert appropriately to amp-hours.
__________________
Looking for a 24/17 in or near Florida.
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