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Old 05-24-2005, 10:00 PM   #1
PopBeavers
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Default TM angle while towing

What should the angle of the TM be while towing? I would think level is best.

I measured mine this week. The tongue is about an inch low. I have not seen any hitch bar that is shorter than a one inch drop. I would need to mount the ball such that it is dead center in the 2" receiver. I have not yet seen a hitch bar with that shape. Ther apparenly is no shuch ting as a straight through hitch bar, meaning if you flip it over the result is exactly the same. It looks like I need to be either slightly high or slightly low. Which is better?
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Old 05-25-2005, 07:13 AM   #2
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An equalizing hitch will get you level. I prefer an equalizing hitch anyways since, even totally empty on both ends, I can feel a difference in the trailer/van combo. How many folks here use/not use WE?

Vicky
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Old 05-25-2005, 08:15 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Seleya
An equalizing hitch will get you level. I prefer an equalizing hitch anyways since, even totally empty on both ends, I can feel a difference in the trailer/van combo. How many folks here use/not use WE?

Vicky
I don't think an equalizing hitch will change anything. The sag in the TV as measured at the rear bumper is about an inch, maybe a little less. The TM factory recommended that I *NOT* install a WD hitch and *NO* sway bars.

I tow with a 2002 Chevy Silverado 4wd 1500HD Crew Cab 6 liter engine automatic. This has a relatively long wheel base and is essentially a 3/4 ton truck suspension. The TV is pretty much the same length as the TM.
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Old 05-25-2005, 03:54 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PopBeavers
What should the angle of the TM be while towing? I would think level is best.

I measured mine this week. The tongue is about an inch low. I have not seen any hitch bar that is shorter than a one inch drop. I would need to mount the ball such that it is dead center in the 2" receiver. I have not yet seen a hitch bar with that shape. Ther apparenly is no shuch ting as a straight through hitch bar, meaning if you flip it over the result is exactly the same. It looks like I need to be either slightly high or slightly low. Which is better?
Ideally both the TV and trailer should be level. If the trailer is tail low, you risk dragging the plumbing and rear bumper when crossing gutters. If it's nose low, that will drag as well but if I had to choose, I think I'd go with nose low on a TM that doesn't have horizontal front tanks (front slide models). With a front slide TM (very low hanging tanks), it'd be very hard to decide.
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I use my TM as a base camp for hiking, kayaking, mountain biking, and climbing Colorado's 14ers


The Trailer: 2002 TM Model 2720SL ( Mods: Solar Panels (170 Watts), Dual T-105 Batteries, Electric Tongue Jack, Side AC, Programmable Thermostat, Doran TP Monitor System)

The Tow Vehicle: 2003 Toyota Tundra V8 SR5 4X4 w/Tow Package (Towing & Performance Mods: JBA Headers, Gibson Muffler, 4.30 gears, Michelin LTX M/S Tires, Prodigy Brake Controller, Transmission Temperature Gauge)


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Old 05-25-2005, 06:36 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PopBeavers
I don't think an equalizing hitch will change anything. The sag in the TV as measured at the rear bumper is about an inch, maybe a little less. The TM factory recommended that I *NOT* install a WD hitch and *NO* sway bars.

I tow with a 2002 Chevy Silverado 4wd 1500HD Crew Cab 6 liter engine automatic. This has a relatively long wheel base and is essentially a 3/4 ton truck suspension. The TV is pretty much the same length as the TM.
I got the WD for my original van (an E-150), on the new van (an extended E-350) the van doesn't sag at all (the van just absorbs the weight -- even the dealer commented on it when we got our brake controller installed and they figured out where to set the chains for me), but I still feel a difference towing when I use the WD bars. It is a more solid, connected feel, especially on bumpy roads. I prefer keeping the trailer totally level and, since the question was asked, that is one way (even without using the eqaulizer bars) of leveling the trailer even with a receiver on level with the trailer since the ball can be positioned where you need it.

Vicky
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Old 05-25-2005, 08:51 PM   #6
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We use a weight distribution bar also, as recommended by the Trailmanor Dealer. The anti-sway bar was not needed however. I would recommend it to anyone towing a TM irregardless of the TV. It's just safer that way and makes for a less stressful tow. They are not expensive and easy to install.

PopBeavers, you may want to drive back to the dealer with your rig and see what they can recommend. Maybe there is a type of hitch that can bring the TM up to the height of the TV's hitch. Otherwise it sounds like you need the lift kit for the TM however if you can't fit it into the garage with it, you'll need to find another way to correct the problem. Maybe someone else can help... but definately get in touch with Dinuba RV.
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Old 05-25-2005, 09:39 PM   #7
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I already have the lift kit, and it does still fit in the garage with the a/c.

It just seems weird that I can get any amount of lift (or rise by flipping the hitch bar upside down) in one inch increments that I want. But the minimum drop is one inch below the bottom of the receiver slot. Flipped over this is one inch above top of receiver slot. This leaves a gap of 4 inches, center of receiver plus or minus 2 inches. If you want to be in that particular range there is just no one that I can find that makes a true straight through hitch bar. Rather amazing.

I have been researching this same topic on rv.net. The general concensus over there seems to be that slightly low is better than slightly high.

Towability is not an issue. I can stop nearly as fast with the TM as without it. Accelleration is only slightly below normal. Bouncing does not occur. TV sag is about an inch. Perhaps I'm just too picky. It looks close to level but I got curious and measured it. Then I started reading the forums on the topic and every one seems to be saying to keep it level.

Maybe one of these days I'll get lucky and find a true straight through hitch bar. Until then I don't think I'll worry about it.

Thanks for all the good suggestions though.
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Old 05-25-2005, 10:10 PM   #8
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We've moved our TM about 4 or 5 feet further away from our driveway retaining wall where we regularly park it, and now, when we lower the tongue all the way down with the crank, while we're attaching the TM to the truck, it's too low to get the wheel off (underneath the tongue crank-up jack). I think we have a 4" drop in our hitch. When we went to Seacliff Beach last month, I had to use a bottle jack to get the TM receiver off of the truck hitch ball. It's weird, because we have never had this problem before. I guess the solution will be to buy a 2" drop hitch receiver. We have a really heavy duty one (solid) and the ones I've seen at KMart & WallyWorld are all hollow, so I guess I'll have to go to the local hitch store. Maybe our tires are worn enough that it makes a difference...they have about 5K left, maybe the truck shocks are getting worn out too? It does kind of seem like the truck used to be higher up in the back. We haven't driven it that much, though. I'm still scratching my head over this. What else could it be?
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Old 05-25-2005, 10:36 PM   #9
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You have mentioned that the rear of the truck drops by an inch when you add the tongue weight of the TM. But you haven't told us how much the front end rises.

Ideally, both should DROP by the same amount. But without a WDH, the rear end drops, and the front end rises, so you have more than a 1" total effect. A WDH enables you to equalize these effects.

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Old 05-26-2005, 08:31 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill
You have mentioned that the rear of the truck drops by an inch when you add the tongue weight of the TM. But you haven't told us how much the front end rises.

Ideally, both should DROP by the same amount. But without a WDH, the rear end drops, and the front end rises, so you have more than a 1" total effect. A WDH enables you to equalize these effects.

Bill
I'll have the TM out of the garage this weekend and will take some accurate measurements.
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