#1 advantage: Mine can and (does run) run about 70V of panels, wired in parallel. Redarc shows a "12V" panel
because they can't even handle 24V nominal Voltage - which is above 36 Volts (typically 38) when the panels are disconnected in PWM mode. Their safety shut-off kicks in at about 34V. I'm not sure about their Solar current handling, but their Solar Voltage sucks - any decent, modern MPPT should be able to handle at least 100V on the Solar side.
#2 advantage: Their machine, if you install in the Trailer (where Solar Panels are) .... will pull high current through your bargeman Connectors and "Battery Charge" wiring, unless you do a voltage "doubler" within the Trailer first. (That "Voltage Doubler" being the main feature within my "home brew".)
Example: Suppose you "need" 250 Watts from the Trailer-mounted Redarc, with all power coming from the TV. At ~13.5V Source Voltage, with all that length of (skinny!!!) "Battery Charge" wire from your TV fusebox, you're trying to pull 20 Amps, before considering Voltage drop.But these wires, fused at 30A in Toyota (and Chevy) and others, are
not #10. And neither is the "battery charge" wire in the TM bargman connector cord. You're going to get a good estimate calculating Voltage drop with #14, round trip. (25ft. each way.) A Voltage drop calculator will show that you're actually pulling 24A to get this power, because the Voltage at the Redarc is only 10.47V. 22.4% of the electric energy is wasted in cooking the wires!
My "homebrew" doubles the Voltage, to about 27V, and provides the same "input power for the MPPT at only 9.7 amps. (Way more efficient, and Way SAFER.)
My home brew disadvantage seems sorta big - until you think about it harder: With the "Homebrew", you choose (at the dashboard) whether to invoke the Bargeman "Doubler" and connect the TV into the MMPT inputs - disconnecting the Solar Panels. But think about it: You can buy a "doubler" which is capable over 20A, at nearly 27V.... Do you really need to add Solar on top of the 500W you're pushing from the TV ??? No!
Homebrew prices: $50 for assorted Relays and wiring. (2 of the Relays are special 24V coil "detectors", the rest are everyday 5-pin "automotive" 12V coil relays. But you need high current capability on some of those automotive Relays... buy a 5-pack of 60A or even 80A).
About $35 for a
regulated Voltage Booster. I use this one:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-Step...-/362154954611 You can get higher Voltage/higher Power versions, but it becomes more difficult to buy matching "Sensor" Relays. 24V is good.
And then a negative ground controller of quality. For up to 30A, I recommend the EP-Solar "Tracer 3315BN" with MT50- controller". (About $210-240, depending on USA versus foreighn shipping.) The "BN stand for "model B, Negative Ground" - do NOT confuse it with other "EP-Solar/EP-Ever models! The good ones have front facing vertical aluminum fins, not a flat cover. My own discontinued "Rogue"" is a bit small, is comparable to the EP-Solar "Tracer 2215BN". (I can do up to 450W from the TV booster, but my max through the MPPT is only about 300 watts: about 22A * 14.4 Volts, and less when running at lower charge voltages.)
And finally - time. Lots of installation time, to get it right. Two installation Threads are:
http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ad.php?t=18272 and
http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ad.php?t=16761
Redarc In-Vehicle BCDC Battery Charger - Dual Input
If you didn't notice it - my "home brew" has big advantages.
Linear Mode
