Power Outlet Help????

Hi I haven't used my 2000, 3124 for several years. When I plug it into shore power I'm getting lights, fan,test panel etc, but no power to the outlets. I'm sure this power is not coming from the battery, because lights dim significantly when I disconnect from shore. I can't remember if there is a switch I need to flip to tell the tm to switch from 12v to 120ac.
I think I might have a GFI and/or fuse problem. When I look at the pannel I have 4 circuit breakers labeled (as I remember):
1.Main
2 & 3 Roof (F?R)
4. GFI - with a "test" button below it.

1 -3 are on and stay on.
4 (GFI is down) and when I flip it up, it immediately flips back down. I've tried pushing the test button also.

Is there a GFI reset button somewhere else or do you think I have a bad fuse?

I figure I ought to disconnect power, before I pull a fuse,
but could use guidance on any other possible concerns
regarding pulling the fuse.

Also is there a way to look at the fuse and know it's bad?

Kathy.

Originally Posted by ktrail

Hi I haven't used my 2000, 3124 for several years. When I plug it into shore power I'm getting lights, fan,test panel etc, but no power to the outlets.

Is there a GFI reset button somewhere else or do you think I have a bad fuse?

Also is there a way to look at the fuse and know it's bad?

Kathy.

Kathy,
I'll try to help.
* First, you are saying that all the fans, lights, and test panel work. You are talking about the 12 Volt circuit here and that appears to be ok.
* Second, you say the lights dim significantly when the shore power is disconnected. That is a sign of a low battery. If that happens after teh battery has been charged for 3 or 4 days on shore power, you probably need to change the battery due to its age. Be sure it is full of distilled water to the bottom of the little indicator tubes inside the filler openings.
* Third, you say 2 breakers are normal. That is good. I don't have my manual and the stuff on my PC doesn't have diagrams of the converter, so I am limited here.
* Fourth, you say the GFI is flipped and when you reset it, it won't stay. I think you have found your problem here. Again, I don't have a diagram with me and can't be certain what all is powered by the GFI circuit. I believe all the outlets are, and now you have a common thread. The breaker won't stay and all the associated outlets are dead. The GFI is looking for a sneak path between the hot 120 V wire and ground and it thinks it has found one -- a short to ground that shouldn't be there.

You may have blown the water heater element by turning it on when there is no water in the tank. That is a common problem with this same outcome. The element shorts to ground when overheated and the GFI senses the short and opens the circuit. You can look at the 120 V switch on the water heater and turn it off. That might clear the short as far as the GFI is concerned and you can reset the GFI. That will will give power to the remainder of the camper.

The switch is on the outside of the TM. There is a removable panel behind the water heater; remove it. If you look back against the heater, you will see a rocker switch. This should have a key in it holding it off. If it is on, turn it off. Then you can reset the GFI.
If this solves the problem, you need to replace the water heater element which is not very expensive.

* you ask about fuses. I don't think you have a blown fuse. The 12V works but is weak, so the fuses are ok. The 120V uses the breakers and not fuses.
Good luck. If that doesn't get you going, let us know.

[ripp1202]

It not a fuse. It's a GFCI breaker and something in that circuit is causing the breaker to trip or could be a bad breaker also make sure that when you reset the GFCI breaker that you push the handle down hard to the off position then back to on as this reset it !!! Next I would remove and check all of the plugs with POWER OFF to see if a wire is touching another wire or a loose wire or a bad plug . I would start in the bath room then counter then to the outside plug. The plugs they use in the TM are cheap and don't take the plugging and unplugging over time to well ,they wear out fast . Hope this help some The Rip

[Bill]

Kathy -

There is no switch to change the TM from 120 VAC to 12 VDC power. Those two power systems are separate.

I believe that the illegible label on circuit breaker 2 or 3 says "ROOF AIR", meaning that this breaker controls the roof-mounted air conditioner.

Originally Posted by BobRederick

* Fourth, you say the GFI is flipped and when you reset it, it won't stay. You may have blown the water heater element by turning it on when there is no water in the tank. That is a common problem with this same outcome. The element shorts to ground when overheated and the GFI senses the short and opens the circuit. You can look at the 120 V switch on the water heater and turn it off. That might clear the short as far as the GFI is concerned and you can reset the GFI. That will will give power to the remainder of the camper.

The switch is on the outside of the TM. If it is on, turn it off. Then you can reset the GFI. If this solves the problem, you need to replace the water heater element which is not very expensive.

As Bob says, a blown water heater element has been found to be the cause of a lot of GFI-tripping in the TM. You can find the threads with the search tool if you care to. As Bob says, your first check should be to take the outside cover off the water heater and turn it off, then see if the GFI circuit breaker will stay in the ON position. If it does, you (and Bob) have found your problem.

The water heater has a separate outside cover, and when you open it, you see THIS. The water-heater's difficult-to-locate switch is pointed out by the arrow.

Bill

Bill
You did a great job of illustrating the hard-to-find switch. Where did you get such a clean picture of the TM? It looks new-in-box!

[mjlaupp]

Had a problem simular to this with my '03 when it was new. If I put any real load (microwave, TV, etc.) on the circuit it would trip. Problem was a weak GFCI breaker. The dealer gave me a replacement breaker and the problem went away.
Mike

[Bill]

Originally Posted by BobRederick

Bill
You did a great job of illustrating the hard-to-find switch. Where did you get such a clean picture of the TM? It looks new-in-box!

Ain't that a hoot? That is a pic of my 2002 2720SL when it was new and I was still learning everything. I couldn't find that switch to save my life! So I took a pic and stashed it on the "webspace" that my ISP gives me (not a web page, just a storage bin). The idea was that I could give other folks access to it when needed, along with a bunch of other pictures and drawings that come in handy.

The TMO server has some ftp space that would be better for this purpose, but I can't figure out how to get access to it. So I use my own personal space. Chris, you listening?

Bill

I recently purchased a 2002 2720SL and took it out on a "shakedown" camping trip to see how everything worked. Everything is/was fine, but I am not getting power to my 120V outlets located in the bathroom and kitchen area off the right side of the refrigerator's cabinet. I look in the user manual and it shows logical schematic drawings of both the 12V and 120V system, but no physical location for the interupter/fuses? Anybody there that can help!
Thanks,
Joe

There is a panel by your feet in the hallway in the bathroom wall opposite the closet. Breakers for 120 volt stuff and fuses for the 12 volt stuff.

Also be aware that as you lift the rear wall of the bathroom up that it will depress a switch that will enable 12 volt power to the rear shell.

WOW. Great thread. I'm still making use of a '01 and I'll bet this is my issue.