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Old 04-29-2007, 08:18 PM   #1
JTurner
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Lakewood, CO
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Default Leveling tandem axles

I'm new to the tandem axles. Anyone have simple instructions for leveling? Do you have to level both wheels? Oh and what's the best chocking method?
Thanks in advance...
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Old 04-29-2007, 09:08 PM   #2
Freedom
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We had a regular travel trailer before that had tandem axles and we used a chock that looked like this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RV-Tr...spagenameZWDVW
They worked real well because they locked the wheels together. You only had to adjust them once and then when you put them in place and flipped the lever the wheels wouldn't move at all. You can even build some out of 4X4 s and a couple of long carriage bolts with wing nuts.

P.S. We use Lynx Blocks for leveling - you can buy them a Wal-Mart. Here's a picture: http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/r...?source=google
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Old 04-29-2007, 10:31 PM   #3
Paul_Heuvelhorst
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Quote:
We had a regular travel trailer before that had tandem axles and we used a chock that looked like this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RV-Tr...spagenameZWDVW
Here's the chock we use: http://www.campingworld.com/browse/s...k/skunum=11109.

Quote:
We use Lynx Blocks for leveling. Here's a picture: http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/r...?source=google
We prefer the Camping World equivilent to Lynx Levelers, due to problems we had with Lynx cracking. http://www.campingworld.com/browse/p...ks/prodID=4155 Depending on the terrain you need to level on, I'd suggest carrying 2 set of 10. When we level in some areas, we need to make a ramp that both wheels will fit on. The spacing between the dual axle is such that if you need to get 3 high (3") you can't get the blocks between the wheels. Yes, you could set them up to go up and over, but I'd prefer to have a level ramp to back onto rather than try to pin-point my final position on 2 12" square towers.

Finally, before you disconnect the trailer from the TV, be sure to use not only the chocks, but put a block behind the wheels on the opposite side of the trailer to keep it from moving when you lift the hitch off the ball. You will prevent serious damage to the trailer, and possibly to yourself of a family member standing near the hitch as you release it.
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Old 05-02-2007, 08:57 PM   #4
JTurner
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Lakewood, CO
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Talking Thanks

Thanks for the tips. So to summarize, block the wheels before disconnecting from the hitch to prevent the trailer moving when unexpected. Make a level platform under both wheels when the ground is very unlevel or if the height adjustment is 3 or more inches.
Before we leave this weekend, make a trip and get the wheel chock that fits between the wheels. It looks like a very nice solution.
Thanks for the URLs about the ideas. A picture is very much worth a 1000 words.

Jim and Colleen
former 3124 KB TM
moved to 271DS Coachmen Captiva
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Old 05-02-2007, 09:22 PM   #5
countrygirl
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After a while it got to where we could look at the levels...we have one on the front of our Outback and one on the side and know if we were a whole bubble off...how many leveling blocks to use. We heard so many horror stories of runaway campers...that I do the chocking and I admit...I over chock...must cause some smiles or head shaking.
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Old 05-04-2007, 11:23 PM   #6
Paul_Heuvelhorst
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Quote:
Originally Posted by countrygirl View Post
After a while it got to where we could look at the levels... we have one on the front of our Outback and one on the side and know if we were a whole bubble off... how many leveling blocks to use.
I have one of these levels [http://www.campingworld.com/browse/s...=6440:src=TSC] mounted in the center on the front of my TT which I can see through my truck's rear view mirror. I had the same arrangement on my TrailManor. So, when backing the trailer into a campsite I can see which side needs to be raised and by how much. The DW is in charge of placing the "blocks" under the tires and does a wonderful job of it.

I also have a level, similar to this,[http://www.campingworld.com/browse/s...r/skunum=5905] mounted on the side of the 'A' frame of the tongue which I can see as I'm raising/lowering the tongue jack. That gives me the front-to-back leveling.

Obviously, before you install the levels, make sure you have leveled the trailer using a carpenter's level (or similarly reliable tool). Check the side-to-side and front-to-back levels several times before you permanently mount a level on your trailer. I devised a tapered peice of wood to mount the level on the front of my TM, and make it "readable" from my cab, due to the angle at which the front cap slopes inward from top to bottom.

I hope this helps you make leveling at the campsite as easy as possible. Happy camping.
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