A wiring repair method under the refrig

[scrubjaysnest]

Wiring is a real pet peeve of mine. Having lost our break lights and left turn signal a few hundred miles from the dealer on our new TM didn't add to the happy camper feeling. After looking the wiring over and doing a temporary fix, here is what I did in the refrig compartment. The attached pics will show the before and after.
The 2720SL has several cable runs that connect in the refrig compartment. Both shells. the TV connection, and wiring to from the converter. All splices left a lot to be desired IMO.

My fix:
Since most wires are labeled keeping track wasn't to much of a problem.
1. If your wires aren't marked do that first, masking tap works good.

2. Strip insulation off a wire so it seats properly in your connector, I used ring lugs so that will require removal of about 1/2 inch.

3. Twist the strands together in a clockwise direction. Tin the wires using a good 60/40 electronic solder with a rosin core.
DONOT use acid core. To tin the wires use a 100 to 140 watt soldering iron or gun. Place the tip on one side of the wire and the solder on the opposite side from the gun or iron. This draws the solder through the strands. Some kind of third device will help here. Caution things get hot here. Finished tinning on wire should be shinny. If not your temp. wasn't hot enough.

4. Crimp your ring lug ( or non-insulated butt splice connector) to the wire. You have just a little wire showing or bottomed out in the butt connector. Use the proper crimper for the connectors you are using.

5. Solder your wire to the lug or butt splice again heating on one side and drawing the solder from the other. For butt connectors make sure your heat shrink tubing is on the wire and well away from your soldering first.

6. If using ring lugs this means using a terminal strip. The type I used has a barrier between screws. After my wiring was done I used 3 inch angle brackets to hold the terminal strip to the floor. You may want to use star washer under the screws for a better connection. Also you may want a corrision inhibitor.

[Wavery]

Nice job. I have been thinking of doing something similar for a long time. It's very nice to see it done and I'm a little surprised that there are only 12 connectors. My wife got a new Dymo Labeler for Christmas. She saw your pics and she is even excited about helping with this project. She loves to label stuff.

I was thinking of going one step farther and using a covered fuse block (I realize the fuses aren't necessary). Something like this one but I would like to find one that uses ring connectors instead of blade connectors and the connectors covered as well:
http://www.amazon.com/10-section-ATM...686898&sr=8-30


I also like to use these heat-shrink connectors:
http://cgi.ebay.com/3M-HEAT-SHRINK-R...item3a61851772


It would be easy to put a clear plastic cover over one like yours, using the mounting screws on each end to secure the cover. I would just be a little concerned about all those connections being exposed.

I may have to re-think the "fuse-holder" and look for a terminal block like yours.

[Bill]

Blue Sea has some nice covered fuse blocks. I use one in the battery area of my TM.

Being a boat guy, you're aware of Blue Sea, I'm sure.

Bill

[scrubjaysnest]

I didn't have any lexan or plexi glass for covers but it is on the list for the next town run.
The 12 TB strip just covers the two shells and the TM breaks. I have to install another for the rest such as the refrig and its fan. The refrig and fan will have a switch I can reach to operate when going down the road.

[Wavery]

OK.......I found what I wanted and just ordered them. I ordered 2, 10-lugs and 2, 6-lugs. They're so cheap........

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT



The nice thing about these is I won't even have to use ring connectors. Just tin the wire end and screw it down under the clamp.

Thanks for the inspiration........now, maybe I'll get this job done.....

Nice work Srubjays, great post!

[Wavery]

Originally Posted by Bill

Blue Sea has some nice covered fuse blocks. I use one in the battery area of my TM.

Being a boat guy, you're aware of Blue Sea, I'm sure.

Bill

Good suggestion Bill........ I hate having more than one wire going to each pole on the battery.

I just purchased this fuse block for the battery compartment:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...=STRK:MEWNX:IT

[scrubjaysnest]

Something I didn't mention in the original post is the muffin fan wiring for refrig vent/cooling. The wires are pinched between the floor and the vent tube housing. I drilled a hole in the housing and pulled the fan wires through it with additional insulation around the fan wires. If I hadn't done this the fan wires was have been pinched by the angle bracket I installed also.

[Wavery]

Originally Posted by scrubjaysnest

Something I didn't mention in the original post is the muffin fan wiring for refrig vent/cooling. The wires are pinched between the floor and the vent tube housing. I drilled a hole in the housing and pulled the fan wires through it with additional insulation around the fan wires. If I hadn't done this the fan wires was have been pinched by the angle bracket I installed also.

If it makes you feel any better, my brother's TT wiring is worse (by far) than the TM wiring. That's why I ordered double of everything. I'm going to rewire my brother's camper too. They used standard crimp connectors (not very well done) and scotchlocks on everything. The wires on his battery were just smashed under a washer on the battery terminal. I already fixed all that. I won't even mention the manufacturer but they should be ashamed of themselves.

After all the connections are made on the block, a light coating of dielectric grease will prevent surface corrosion on the connections. Our Florida climate is tough on electrical connections, dielectric grease is fast becoming a good friend.