Wish list for new owners: exterior

[Bill]

Oldstick -

I agree that a handle as you describe it would be handy. But let me caution against using the awning as a pull-down handle. The awning has been known (on this forum) to pull its mounting screws out, and that's a mess.

Bill

[oldstick]

Originally Posted by Bill

Oldstick -

I agree that a handle as you describe it would be handy. But let me caution against using the awning as a pull-down handle. The awning has been known (on this forum) to pull its mounting screws out, and that's a mess.

Bill

Yep, I understand. Usually, once I get the street side rear shell locked, the curb side will go down easily. Just a light hold above the awning for stabilization and the weight of only one foot on the stirrup. Then the front shell will latch both sides with minimal effort on the stirrups. But then again, handles all the way around would be great too.

[Bill]

Originally Posted by oldstick

But then again, handles all the way around would be great too.

Agreed. Like you, I tend to topple as I step up into the stirrup, so even a simple balance handle would be welcome. Maybe worth trying?

Bill

[Shane826]

Been thinking about ways to improve the lift design and perhaps make it easier to add lift assist mechanism... What if instead of using 2 L- shaped torsion bars at each end of each shell (so 8 bars total), they used 1 U- shaped torsion bar at each end of each shell (4 bars total)? This would eliminate binding caused by one side or the other being out of adjustment. Or, instead of torsion bars, they could just use plain U- shaped steel bars*. Put a gear on the middle of each bar and a motor with a smaller gear meshed to it, you have a simple torque reduction motor to lift or lower the shells. Take it a step further; locate a motor between the front and rear bars of each shell and use a chain & sprocket or jackscrew & gear setup from 1 motor to 2 U-shaped bars. There’s your automatic lift mechanism. One motor for the front shell, one for the rear.

*Not sure if the spring action of the torsion bars would cause a motor & gear mesh assembly to bind when the shells try to pop up when unlatched, thus just plain U- shaped steel bar with no spring load.

[Larryjb]

A "U" shaped torsion bar would have nothing to put spring tension into it, which is key to providin a lifting force. The small part of the "L" of the torsion bar locks onto the frame below and puts a twist tension in the bar when closed. A "U" shaped bar with a motor might be an idea, but if the motor ever failed 15 minutes before checkout time ...

I am a big fan of the simplicity of the TM torsion system. I still think my idea of a torsion bar that can provide even more lift advantage at the beginning is the simplest. As Bill said, more spring tension at the beginning of the lift will make it more difficult to latch down. That's why I was suggesting a latch down mechanism that would make it easier to close. This could be an assymetrical lever or perhaps a screw down system. A lever would be quicker, but perhaps more difficult. A screw down lock could be easier, but increase the setup and close down time.

[Shane826]

You could simply weld a tab on the middle of the U. Torsion bar springs on the front of a Chevy Silverado are straight lines, with a tab to catch the adjuster key. That was just a rough idea.

[Larryjb]

Originally Posted by Shane826

You could simply weld a tab on the middle of the U. Torsion bar springs on the front of a Chevy Silverado are straight lines, with a tab to catch the adjuster key. That was just a rough idea.

Maybe I need to look at my Tahoe again, but I thought the tab on the torsion bar was made by bending a straight rod into the "L" shape to catch the adjuster key, rather than welding a straight tab on the side of it.

[Bill]

Originally Posted by Larryjb

As Bill said, more spring tension at the beginning of the lift will make it more difficult to latch down. That's why I was suggesting a latch down mechanism that would make it easier to close. This could be an assymetrical lever or perhaps a screw down system. A lever would be quicker, but perhaps more difficult. A screw down lock could be easier, but increase the setup and close down time.

A power latch-down system, kinda like the automatic tailgate latch on newer SUVs? Larry, I'm liking this more and more. Keep going!

Bill

[Larryjb]

Originally Posted by Bill

A power latch-down system, kinda like the automatic tailgate latch on newer SUVs? Larry, I'm liking this more and more. Keep going!

Bill

If the power latch system were like your screw jack idea, except to pull the shell down instead, it could be operated by a cordless drill or manually. This could remain a foolproof mechanism that would rarely fail, but have the power option.

My only concern with increased torsion bar assistance when opening is that that tension is constantly pushing up on the shell. If they continued to use those little tent trailer style hold down clamps at the corners, they would be more likely to pull away from the side of the trailer. I think one would have to use 4 of those heavy latches that they use in the centre of the trailer, one at each corner of the shell. The power latch-down system could simply pull the shell down until each latch engages.

I think I'd also like to see some vertical aluminum pieces from the pockets stops to the upper horizontal shell frame. This would take the forces off the skin of the shell. The drawback is that the aluminum would make a cold spot in those locations along the wall.