Fridge question / help

Bowfreak · 05-14-2016, 07:06 PM

So we have a 2003 2720 SL with a Norco fridge that can run on shore, DC, or Propane. We have always had hook ups when we have used it since purchasing last year with no problems.

We plan on a trip to Colorado in a few weeks and we are staying the first few days were we will be dry camping. We have a generator to recharge the batteries to keep up with lights, radio, etc. And we planned on using the propane for the fridge to reduce the drain to the batteries.

Well today I went out and was going to test the fridge on propane. Opened the tank valves and went through the process of holding the one button down while hitting the striker button several times. While I was striking it and holding the button the flame indicator would go to the green area and stay there as long as I held the right button. Within a few seconds to 20 seconds after releasing it would slowing work back over to the white area on the indicator.

Thought maybe I was low on propane so tried the furnace and it started right up no issues. I tried the fridge several more times with no luck.

So my first question is any ideas where to start?

My next question revolves around running it off DC. I have a 2015 F150 with the tow package and my trailer is set up with 2 brand new group 27 AGM deep cycle batteries ran in parallel. Will I have any issue with driving for 6 - 10 hours and the fridge draining the batteries faster than the tow vehicle can charge as I wanted to run it will driving to keep it cold? And lets say I am very sparing with using lights in the trailer and don't anticipate using much else could I get away with running the fridge off DC while dry camping by charging the batteries for several hours per day on a charger hooked to the generator?

We had planned on moving after the first 3 days to another spot in Colorado and dry camp for several more days but now this has me worried.

Any help would be appreciated.

Padgett · 05-14-2016, 08:45 PM

Well it is rated at 10.7A at 14 VDC and the pair of 27s should be good for about 65 AH (50%) so 6 hours ?

OTOH a Coleman 40qt Power Chill (Peltier) pulls about 4 amps. I use one of these in transit and until the fridge cools down on shore current or propane. My GC2s are good for about 26 hours (50%) and the 200W solar (12.5A @ 75%) is enough to run the cooler and charge the batteries.

After quite a bit of study I could not find anything with as much capacity that would fit my rear compartment as 2 GC2s.

ps with my rig there is no limit to how long I can dry camp. Do use a 2400W gen to run the AC.

gonzo628 · 05-14-2016, 10:26 PM

Regarding the issue with your propane. I've had the same problem and found the following:

1) To prime the system, I need to open the propane tank(s), and then light the appliance furthest from the source (the tanks). For me, lighting my stove seems to be the best option. I light all three burners and make sure the flame is strong and consistent. Once the burners pass that test:

2) Light the fridge. I had issues with this (even after priming the system. I could press the igniter (took a number of presses) and get it to light, but once I let go, it would go out (much in the way you describe). i repeated the process (repeatedly pressing the igniter) then holding it, and after 20 seconds or so, letting go caused the gauge to move back to white. After trying again, I held it a bit longer (probably almost a minute) and then it stayed lit.

Padgett · 05-15-2016, 07:49 AM

This is the recall information page.

Bowfreak · 05-15-2016, 10:10 AM

So I went out and tried again this morning. Ran the burners on the stove for several minutes and then tried the fridge again. As long as I am holding the right button down I can hear the pilot light running and I held it down for several minutes. As soon as I let up on the button the pilot noise stopped and the flame indicator started moving towards off.

So where do I go from here?

Padgett · 05-15-2016, 11:21 AM

To me that sounds like the thermal control that is supposed to hold the gas open once the flame heats it isn't.

Last trip it took nearly two days before the fridge would stay lit but I did not try the stove trick. Too bad there is not a way to purge the lines.

**Bill** · 05-15-2016, 12:10 PM

Let's start with one thing. If the pilot flame lights (meaning that the meter moves into the green), then propane is reaching the refrig. There is no further need to worry about the propane supply, or purging the lines, or lighting the stove, or anything similar.

Your refrigerator is probably in the N300.3 series. The problem is most likely a harmless (but annoying) loose connector. Relevant info from Norcold is at the very bottom of the page cited above. It is not related to the scary 1200 series burner-corrosion problem at the top of the page.

Norcold had a problem with loose electrical connectors. Just that simple. If you write to Norcold and complain, they will send you a couple new wires with tighter connectors. You must install them yourself.

I told Ken - and I will tell you the same thing - that you can tighten the connectors yourself, or you can install the new Norcold connectors, but either way, you must do the following.

1. Disconnect all power from the trailer. Unplug shore power, and disconnect the trailer battery (easiest way is to pull the fuse in the battery red wire).
2. Remove the refrig door. How? At the very top of the hinge side is a big silvery hex screw head with a screwdriver slot in it. Unscrew it, remove it, and the door will come off. Set it aside where it won't be damaged.
3. Look at the edges of the front of the refrig. Up and down each side, you will see three or four screws. These hold the refrig into the kitchen cabinet. Remove them.
4. Pull the refrig 3 or 4 inches toward you, into the room. This may require lifting it 1/4 inch to clear the wood molding strip along the floor. Once you have pulled the refrig out a bit, this will expose the rotary switch at the top right - the one that selects ELEC/|BATTERY/GAS/OFF - and all the wires that are connected to it.
5a. One by one, pull off each wire. The connector looks like the attached photo, though the insulation may not be yellow, or may be missing entirely. Squeeze the folded-over portion of the connector just a bit with pliers (don't flatten it!), and push it back on. Pushing it on should require moderate, but not bone-crushing, force. If it slips on easily, it is not tight enough.
. . . OR
5b. If you have new wires from Norcold, this is where you remove the old wires and push on the new ones.
6. When you have done every wire, push the refrig back into cabinet, replace the screws you removed from each edge, and replace the door.

That's all there is to the repair. It duplicates the Norcold recall repair. It has worked for a number of owners, including me. Note that the recall is by Norcold, not TM, and the repair should be performed by a Norcold retailer. Since the refrig is warrantied by Norcold, and not by TM, I doubt that a TM dealer will perform the repair for free, though if your dealer is close by, you might want to inquire.

Bill

Bowfreak · 05-15-2016, 05:30 PM

Thanks. Heading out to the shop to try it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill

Let's start with one thing. If the pilot flame lights (meaning that the meter moves into the green), then propane is reaching the refrig. There is no further need to worry about the propane supply, or purging the lines, or lighting the stove, or anything similar.

Your refrigerator is probably in the N300.3 series. The problem is a harmless (but annoying) loose connector. Relevant info from Norcold is at the very bottom of the page cited above. It is not related to the scary 1200 series burner-corrosion problem at the top of the page.

Norcold had a problem with loose electrical connectors. Just that simple. If you write to Norcold and complain, they will send you a couple new wires with tighter connectors. You must install them yourself.

I told Ken - and I will tell you the same thing - that you can tighten the connectors yourself, or you can install the new Norcold connectors, but either way, you must do the following.

1. Disconnect all power from the trailer. Unplug shore power, and disconnect the trailer battery (easiest way is to pull the fuse in the battery red wire).
2. Remove the refrig door. How? At the very top of the hinge side is a big silvery hex screw head with a screwdriver slot in it. Unscrew it, remove it, and the door will come off. Set it aside where it won't be damaged.
3. Look at the edges of the front of the refrig. Up and down each side, you will see three or four screws. These hold the refrig into the kitchen cabinet. Remove them.
4. Pull the refrig 3 or 4 inches toward you, into the room. This may require lifting it 1/4 inch to clear the wood molding strip along the floor. Once you have pulled the refrig out a bit, this will expose the rotary switch at the top right - the one that selects ELEC/|BATTERY/GAS/OFF - and all the wires that are connected to it.
5a. One by one, pull off each wire. The connector looks like the attached photo, though the insulation may not be yellow, or may be missing entirely. Squeeze the folded-over portion of the connector just a bit with pliers (don't flatten it!), and push it back on. Pushing it on should require moderate, but not bone-crushing, force. If it slips on easily, it is not tight enough.
. . . OR
5b. If you have new wires from Norcold, this is where you remove the old wires and push on the new ones.
6. When you have done every wire, push the refrig back into cabinet, replace the screws you removed from each edge, and replace the door.

That's all there is to the repair. It duplicates the Norcold recall repair. It has worked for a number of owners, including me. Note that the recall is by Norcold, not TM, and the repair should be performed by a Norcold retailer. Since the refrig is warrantied by Norcold, and not by TM, I doubt that a TM dealer will perform the repair for free, though if your dealer is close by, you might want to inquire.

Bill

Bowfreak · 05-15-2016, 05:32 PM

Would you mind giving me his contact information. We are heading to Colorado on the 27th and will be in Denver on the 28th. If playing with the wires don't work it sounds like this guy knows another trick and I can just schedule something on the way through to Bailey Colorado. Thanks

Quote:

Originally Posted by kengiesige

Bowfreak----I just had a Mobile RV come over today about 1:30 he checked why the Frig.
won't work on propane I had the same problem like you with the gauge going to green once you take your finger off primer it goes to white the problem was the safety valve
on the refrigerator he fixed it & it works great it cost was with a trip charge $129.00 that's great since we are going on our first trip starting a week from Thursday for 4 days --I have seen on the Forum that there a lot of TM owners with the same problem--that was better to
have someone come to the house than taking it to another RV place that you would have to wait 2 weeks for them to look at your TM---plus his hourly rate is cheaper----Ken

Bowfreak · 05-15-2016, 06:37 PM

Quick update. Pulled fridge out and noticed a yellow wire on top that wasn't plugged into anything. According to the manual the only yellow wire referenced was supposed to plug into w2. We plugged it back in and put fridge back in. Pilot light is staying on now. However, should we be hearing the compressor or anything other than the pilot light?