2 Years of living with the TM - Page 2

tentcamper · 04-15-2015, 11:17 AM

We used white RV screws one at each end of the tape, and added one Velcro 1.5 inch plastic dot with a screw in the center of the new Velcro tape.

I got the dots from trailmanor but they were black. I painted with white plastic paint and gave them one coat and they are a light gray. I think any more paint would cause the dots not to grip.

**Bill** · 04-15-2015, 11:41 AM

Yup, the factory now uses black screwed-down dots rather than strips.

When I bought my first TM, my dealer (Dana Cheyne at MCD) taught me a little trick. If you just grab the flap and rip the velcro open like ripping a bandaid off a cut, then sure enough, the scab will come off with the bandaid. In other words, the velcro strip will pull off the wall. Instead, slip your fingers up into the velcro seam, and slide them sideways along the seal. This opens the seal gently, without pulling the velcro away from the wall.

Works like a champ.

Bill

scrubjaysnest · 04-15-2015, 03:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill

Yup, the factory now uses black screwed-down dots rather than strips.

When I bought my first TM, my dealer (Dana Cheyne at MCD) taught me a little trick. If you just grab the flap and rip the velcro open like ripping a bandaid off a cut, then sure enough, the scab will come off with the bandaid. In other words, the velcro strip will pull off the wall. Instead, slip your fingers up into the velcro seam, and slide them sideways along the seal. This opens the seal gently, without pulling the velcro away from the wall.

Works like a champ.

Bill

This has been our method all along but in some spots the glue strip pulls away from the velcro.

Any idea what the molding is on the roof curb side

of the front shell.

**Bill** · 04-15-2015, 06:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scrubjaysnest

Any idea what the molding is on the roof curb side

of the front shell.

I'd like to help, but I guess I'm not sure what you are asking about. Pictured is the curbside roof of the front shell of my TM. There are only two pieces of molding up there. The red one is the channel molding that bends down over the front end, covering the intersection of the sidewall and the front wall. The blue one is the flat molding that runs the entire length of the roof, directly under the L-brackets that hold the awning. As near as I can tell, this is identical to the molding in the same place on the street side. Is this what you are asking about?

Am I missing something? Would a photo help?

Bill

scrubjaysnest · 04-16-2015, 07:18 AM

Bill,
Yep, your missing the 3rd piece of molding we have, its about 1/4 inch away from the rounded trim, blue in your pic, that the awning brackets are mounted to. This third piece is identical to the one that runs down the middle of the roof over the seam. I don't see a reason for it; but left it in place and re caulked it.

Now to come up with a repair for the awning L brackets.

Padgett · 04-16-2015, 08:39 AM

When I replaced my Fiamma awning I just found a 1/8" aluminum "L" 4 foot long at Lowes and cut into three pieces: two 18" for the ends and one 12" for the center. Somewhat stronger than the two shorter L's TM used.

See my writeup for some of the "gotchas" and misteaks in the instructions for a replacement F45s.

scrubjaysnest · 04-17-2015, 06:21 AM

Looks like I'll need to drill the rivets so I can straighten the two foot long bent "L" brackets. In addition I'll add "L" brackets the length of the awning. Kicking around coming up with some kind of gusset for the "L" brackets. Because so much of the "L" bracket is not supported, there is a lot of stress on the brackets when the awning is out. Also thinking about some kind of "L" bracket to help support the ones resting on air. Then fill all the gaps so they can't fill with other stuff.

rvcycleguy · 04-17-2015, 07:01 AM

The stress on the brackets should only be there when your rolling it out?
As soon as the arms are extended and adjusted properly, there should no longer be stress on the roof awning brackets.

scrubjaysnest · 04-17-2015, 11:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rvcycleguy

The stress on the brackets should only be there when your rolling it out?
As soon as the arms are extended and adjusted properly, there should no longer be stress on the roof awning brackets.

That is correct but you have 7 or 8 feet by 11 feet of awning pulling on the 2, 24 inch brackets until you get the weight supported by the legs. Most likely not a problem if you use the awning half a dozen times a year. We set up the awning almost every time we change camp sites unless it's just for over night.
So for us it's 2 or 3 times a week. If there is a light breeze, say under 10 mph we will guy rope the awning; which in turn may add additional force to the brackets. Almost 2/3 rds of the bracket isn't supported because of the curve of the trim they are pop riveted to. When I get finished I'll have angle running the entire length of the awning except for about 4 inches at the front.

scrubjaysnest · 03-06-2016, 04:47 AM

the start of 6 years for us and the TM. Been mostly minor repairs and mods this winter. I replaced the bathroom door hinges as the ones it came with tended to deform.
Added lighted switch for switching power on/off to the radio rather then reaching across the top of the fridge to plug in.
Added a lighted switch for the water heater, no more going outside to switch on the power. We haven't used the water heater since 2012 but this is a simple mod.
There was the solar redo of course, reported on that in the nest and its loads.
After the bag seal replacement it will be time for new tires before we leave and check on a possible alignment problem on the street side tire.