Fitting TM in Carport

[kikeehn]

Art,
I think I'm going with switching out the Hitches when parking the TM.
I had no trouble getting the TM up the apron and into the carport, if fact I could put the entire TM in the carport, it's the box on the A frame that holds the Tanks. That box hangs 5" below the hitch rail, that box holds the tanks, and when the TM gets to the top of the apron it hangs up.
The way it looks I only need another 1 to 3 additional inches of height just to clear the top of the apron.

[tentcamper]

I though about dropping the hitch for the TM, but I would need to do that going up and down the drive. What a PITA it would be re-hitch every time I took the camper out and brought it home. KISS! The boards were simple for the TT. The lift kit was about $100 and 1.5 hours of work for the TM. But I could have done the boards for the TM.

Your issue is higher up the drive, so you would add the stacked 2x6 behind the trailer tires just before it started to drag and make them long enough most likely a little longer then width of the sidewalk.

My issue was when the TV tires where higher up on the road and the trailer tires were lower in the gutter. Once I could get the trailer tires up the drive about 2 feet there was no issue. I have about 7 feet between the curb and sidewalk that has about a 2 to 2.5 foot rise from the gutter and sidewalk. The drive has another 5 foot rise from the sidewalk to the flat are at the top where there is a 70 degree turn into the garage.

I did try a difference ball mount on the 31' TT for the drive. But it was not a WDH. The trailer rear bumper cleared the drive, but the rear of the TV dropped about 3 inches without the WDH and the lower ball mount then dragged when the TV rear wheels were in the gutter, or should I say the ball shank/nut dragged.

[Padgett]

I'd use 2x12 or 2x14 and put them behind the TV rear tires a bit before it drags for two reasons:
1) box that is dragging is closer to the hitch than the TM axle
2) axle torque will help the TV tires to climb the board where the TM tires might just push the board. (Why I also bevel the end of the board.)

With boards it is also easy to stack if you need more.

I made this one for the RV to clear the lift without a tire dropping off and damaging a sidewall. Just used some scraps and countersunk drywall screws plus a channel in the back to clear the hydraulic lines. Can see the Vixen tread mark.

[kikeehn]

Padgett,
I was cleaning out my storage shed and I found leveling blocks from Rambler, that I had when I had my RV. there 8 1/2"x 8 1/2" x 1" and they interlock and also stack. If my raised hitch ball doesn't work, I'll try those or mayby a combination of both. If you go to (camping world.com) Under towing and leveling look for leveling blocks by Rambler and you'll see an example of what I'm talking about.
The picture below is what I'm talking about

[kikeehn]

Art,
If you check the enclosed picture, our street meets the driveway, so your going from the street right into the driveway. There's no gutter or sidewalk you have to go over first, it's a direct shot into the carport.