Has anyone changed their own gray water tank?

I blew a tire and tore up the plumbing. Being an engineer I can't simply patch the torn tank where the drain comes out. I bought a new tank. Actually I bought the "Tire tore out the plumbing" kit from the factory. Tank with drain line flange installed, Valves, Pipe, Elbows and 2 more flanges. It did not come with instructions.
I just got the old tank out. I SHOULD HAVE PATCHED THE OLD TANK.
There are two flange type fittings glued to the top of the tank. I tore them loose when I removed the tank. I think one is from the sinks and the other from the tub. I hope I didn't damage the tub.
How do I gain access from above to glue the new fittings in?
Is there a work around? Foam seals?
HELP!

[Mr. Adventure]

I make this suggestion without a clear mental picture of the fittings you're working with, in the spirit of offering some encouragement.

I had freezing damage once on a trailer's drain manifold with ABS plastic fittings. It was going to be a huge pain to tear them all out to replace about 2" in the middle, so I just goobered (technical term) ABS glue on the crack and it worked perfectly.

You have the same thing going for you in this application: the water is not under much pressure. You also have one additional asset that I didn't have: "Heck, it's only gray water, so a few drips from a leak under the middle of the trailer might be an adventure, but it's probably not an EPA reportable event."

[Northwoods]

Hi, I sure hope someone has an answer. The same thing happened to us (tire blew/hole in gray water tank). We're just trying to figure out how to go about the repair. We had a tank replaced under warranty when it just sprung a leak on its own. We haven't gotten as far as trying to remove it, etc, etc. Any help would be appreciated. Ken and Olga, Northwoods

I disconnected the P trap in the first photo. I thought it was the only connection and it would snake out when I lowered the tank.
Actually that pipe is about 2 1/2 ft long and goes to the most distant flange. I guess the other flange is the bath tub drain. I don’t know what damage I may have done on the other end of that pipe. Meanwhile my TM is out of service and hurricane Hanna is headed our way.

Until I learn how to gain access from above, my advice is;
Don’t remove the tank.

Even then, I now think that changing the tank should be the last choice not the first.

I talked to Ed at the factory today. Now I know I have to take up the bath tub. Lots of molding and silicone to remove . The good news is; it is no longer attached to the tank. If Hurricane Hanna lets me I'll work on it this weekend. I will take pictures and report progress next week.

[Bill]

Al -

I'm sorry you didn't spot http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ead.php?t=7720. To summarize, when my gray water tank developed a leak, the dealer couldn't replace it - it had to be done by the factory. The tub and the tank were solvent-welded together at the fittings, and they had to saw out the tank, break the fittings joining them, then pull the tub up off the floor. I think they also had to cut out a hunk of the floor under the tub, and then replace it - judging by the fact that the floor beside the tub has squeaked since the job was done. Can't be sure about that, though.

I agree with your conclusion - don't replace the tank if you can find any way to patch it!

Bill

I took out the tub today. Note in the photos below that the trap you see under the TM goes to the tub. If you only want to remove the tub, you can reach up from below, loosen the nuts and remove the trap.
Then from above;
• Remove the top half of the bathroom walls.
o For the half next to the kitchen remove the stop screw in the slide and slide it off. (plan where you are going to put it first)
o Unscrew the hinge on the other wall.
• Remove the box with the faucets.
o It may help to go outside and remove the outside shower to get at the pipe fittings. (don’t loose the white plastic seal washers)
• Pry off the molding around the top edge of the tub
• Remove the screws that hold the tub to the walls
• Lift out the tub

I also removed the tub wall, with the exhaust fan, for easier access.

There was not space to cut the pipe and replace the flanges so I had to machine the old tank pieces off of the flanges.
The line from the sinks could not be removed without pulling up the tile floor, so I crawled under the TM with an end mill chucked in my drill and filled my hair and face with plastic chips.
Now I will be able to mark the location of the holes in the top of the new tank.
Now that I have it out I am thinking about replacing the tub with the new (2008 and later) style tub. I’ll call TM Monday.

Note! My pipes are ABS not PVC. PVC cement will not work. It looks like the best available on Sunday is OATLEY #30821D Red label All Purpose Cement.

I have a lot more pictures if anyone is interested in details.

To be continued…

Wow, that is a lot of work. Great photos. I imagine this thread will be well used in the future for those needing to change their gray water tank.

Thanks for all of the great information and photos.

Chap

[ShrimpBurrito]

I agree with Chap. What a serious pain, but I'll rest easier knowing this great thread is here if I ever have to do this....

Thanks!

Dave

Does it look like if a little more time was spent all that wiring could have been done just a little more neatly Or is that just trailer norm