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Old 09-23-2016, 05:50 PM   #21
Padgett
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Name and manufacturer please. Did find out the 5-2-1 is only for 220VAC compressors.
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Old 09-24-2016, 03:52 PM   #22
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Default Soft-start devices

110 volt devices that will work for us:

Micro Air Easy Start
Hyper Engineering Sure Start

Looks nice but only 220 so far:

Emerson CSS Compressor Soft Starters Looks like a more professional version of Hyper Engineering, possibly made on contract. Not for US market at this time.

Everything else I've seen, including the 5-2-1, is a hard start capacitor.

Run capacitors change the phase between the stator and armature (rotor) so that the motor can run in quadrature phase. In general the run capacitor is in series with the stator or armature windings.
Hard start capacitors increase the capacitance while the rotor is starting, because the run capacitance will not be enough for quadrature phase at the lower starting speed, and the stock start capacitor might be too small. They use a contact and delay device to switch the extra capacitor in for a moment while the motor is starting, and then remove it from the circuit.

Soft start or smart start devices can switch in a capacitor and limit the overall current. In general current limitation is done using a triac to chop out a portion of the AC wave. Some devices have a relay or contactor that bypasses the triac once the motor is running, to eliminate any resistance of the triac or to increase the lifetime of the triac.

Soft start devices claim learning and optimization for a specific motor, but there isn't much real documentation of how they work. Comparing one to the other would take laboratory equipment - which I happen to have, but I'm not volunteering to buy multiple devices just to compare them.
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Old 09-24-2016, 08:25 PM   #23
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Is also the Dometec SmartStart but it is pricy.

I have the Easy Start in my camper and have a Sure Start for my 15kbtu test unit but plan to test when under 100 in the garage. Have heard it works well with a typical Coleman and a Predator.

Both work fine but the Sure Start requires one more wire than the Easy Start.

The manuals for both are on line.

I consider one to be essential for running a TM AC on a single lightweight generator.

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Old 09-26-2016, 07:46 AM   #24
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All of this info is nice but what I don't understand is why don't the RV A/C unit come with this built-in to begin with??
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Old 09-26-2016, 08:51 AM   #25
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$$$$$$
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"Retractable hard side camper", way more than a pop up

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Old 09-26-2016, 12:57 PM   #26
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A boondocking air conditioner would use an electronic motor, which has multi-phase windings and does not have the problems of conventional alternating current motors. And it would regenerate rotor power from the pressure after the condenser, like the Prius air conditioner.

Nobody makes one yet.
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Old 09-26-2016, 01:08 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Padgett View Post
Is also the Dometec SmartStart but it is pricy.
Padgett, compare the photos of Dometic and Hyper Engineering. It's pretty obvious that the same company makes both, and Emerson Secure Start, and probably the Emerson CSS models.
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Old 09-26-2016, 04:34 PM   #28
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Emerson yes, it is a five wire connection and has the bag on the side. But the Dometec is the four wire no bag MicroAir design. See here.

We are getting way down below any interest by the average user.

And correct, the start/run capacitor method is a kludge but a cheap one and most shore power systems can accept the surge. A 2KW generator can't unless really lucky.
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Old 10-03-2016, 02:51 PM   #29
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I have a Champion 73540i 2kW inverter generator, it's 3 years old now with a LOT of hours on it. It's been a good generator.

But, new trailer had to have a new generator, bought a Honda EU2000i that I will convert to propane with this kit - http://www.campingworld.com/browse/s...FQGSaQod5A4LMQ

The Champion is just a wee bit louder, larger, and heavier than a 2kW Honda or Yamaha, but about $500 less new. It can be parallelled with another Champion to get enough wattage to power both the airconditioner and a microwave, for about $1000 less than parallelling a Honda or Yamaha.
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Old 10-03-2016, 03:47 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bheisser View Post
does anyone use a power inverter, it seems so much easier (just let truck run,,not much gas at idle ,, plus a truck engine running is pretty quiet etc, I have a 1000/2000 watt i use around the house ,,( i do have a loud 4k champion gas generator for prolonged power outages)
I have seen inverter advertised up to 5000 watts seem pretty cheap
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5000-Watt-Co...25.m3641.l6368
An inverter in the tow vehicle is a great thing to have, but I think 1000W is the max you should go. Even then you would have to upgrade the truck alternator to 180 amps and upgrade the underhood cabling.

Also, you want a Pure Sine Wave inverter, not a Modified Sine Wave. PSW is double the cost of MSW.

Many people have tried and failed to put massive inverters in their trucks, it's just not feasible compared to a PSW inverter generator.

I have the 600W Samlex that mounts under the driver seat, it's a great thing to have and isn't too much of a load on a 130A alternator, but I'd certainly like to put a 180A alternator in even with that little guy.
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