New TMs

[LoveToCamp]

They are all wood, no paper veneer. The goal was to have wood, so dings could be easily fixed, and still look good.

[ceickhoff]

We just read the comments regarding the switch and the wood block.

We moved the KILL SWITCH from the bathroom to where we believe is a better place.

The wood block is our first attempt to keep the door in place when the unit is folded for travel.

We appreciate reading all that is on the forum.

Thank you,

TrailManor

[BradS7535]

Originally Posted by ceickhoff

We moved the KILL SWITCH from the bathroom to where we believe is a better place.

Does an owner have to remember to turn off the power when folding up? The nice thing about having it tied to the bathroom wall is you don't need to think about it. Someone might forget to flip the switch when closing up.

[BrucePerens]

Originally Posted by ceickhoff

We moved the KILL SWITCH from the bathroom to where we believe is a better place.

I guess this will allow the switch to govern the front as well as rear lights, at the cost of them all being on one fuse unless further complication is introduced to the electrical wiring. I guess 15 amps is sufficient for an all-LED system.

The wood block is our first attempt to keep the door in place when the unit is folded for travel.

Replacing the hook, I guess.

[BrucePerens]

Originally Posted by BradS7535

Does an owner have to remember to turn off the power when folding up? The nice thing about having it tied to the bathroom wall is you don't need to think about it. Someone might forget to flip the switch when closing up.

The real function of that button on the bathroom wall was to disable the CO/LP detector and its 1A current draw without giving the user a way to accidentally leave it disabled. Making it disable the lights too just gave the user another reason to put up the bathroom wall and activate the detector rather than leave it down for a short overnight stay.

There might be acceptable CO/LP detectors with independent battery power today, which don't turn off at all.

I put a cut-off switch on the A-frame. It is turned on during towing to run the emergency brake (our 2004 doesn't put that on an independent battery) and the refrigerator (we upgraded to the CR-1110 compressor 'fridge).

An outside switch is a better idea except if some wiseguy decides to mess with it. I put it on the street side so pedestrians won't see it when it's parked.

Thanks

Bruce

[Keith Wire]

Originally Posted by BrucePerens

The real function of that button on the bathroom wall was to disable the CO/LP detector and its 1A current draw without giving the user a way to accidentally leave it disabled.

I seem to recall that on some old units there was a 12V (non fluorescent type) ceiling light above the bed that if left on would get hot enough to burn a hole in the mattress and could even catch fire.

The switch in the bathroom wall stopped that from occurring.

But I could be mistaken...

Keith

[commodor47]

Originally Posted by Keith Wire

I seem to recall that on some old units there was a 12V (non fluorescent type) ceiling light above the bed that if left on would get hot enough to burn a hole in the mattress and could even catch fire.

The switch in the bathroom wall stopped that from occurring.

But I could be mistaken...

Keith

Keith,

You have good recall - on earlier units the slight side-to-side motion of the inner shell while under tow would, under certain road conditions, cause the light(s) in the bed area to turn on. And in some cases that did char the bed (or bedding) and could start a fire. I have not seen any reported incidents of a fire but there have been reports of burn marks on the bedding. Tying in the LP/CO detector to the kill switch is an added benefit.

Dick