Radio

[Leslie & Nick]

I don't know if this has already been discussed, but I'm convinced that heat rising from the refrigerator "cooked" the TM's original radio. My reason is: I pulled the radio out of it's compartment above the refrigerator to see if I could get the faceplate dial to work again. No such luck of course (Jensen wanted as much to fix it as a new one would cost, but I'll get to that later). Anyway, while the radio was out of its "slot" I walked by the operating refigerator (AC power) and felt very warm air coming out of the "slot". The circulating fan was on, and refgigerator seems to work fine.

I didn't think this was a good environement for the radio - in the way of a proverbial "blast furnace". When I removed the vent grill from the outside of the TM I found a small piece of paper faced fiberglass wall insulation (the same kind that's in your house) haphazardly placed on top of the refrigerator. After some hunting around Home Depot, I found a piece of flexible sheet insulation. I cut a piece to snugly fit above the refigerator, and below the radio.

I bought a new radio/CD from Crutchfield (least expensive one they offered <$80) and installed it. This one has an AUX jack on the faceplate so I can plug in an i Pod or any other device (see red arrow). Radio works good so far, but it hasn't been in long enough to see if remaining heat causes it any problems.

[Bill]

I think I have the same (or a very similar) Jensen radio from Crutchfield. I like it. Just as a note, though, the thing consumes quite a bit of power even when it is turned OFF! As I recall, removing the faceplate did not reduce the power consumption very much.

This power consumption matters when you put the TM in storage (unless you disconnect the battery, or keep a 3-stage charger on the battery). And of course it matters when you are dry-camping, trying to conserve every drop of battery power.

BTW, this isn't a problem in a car, because a car has a separate switched-ignition wire, and when the ignition goes off, it cuts most of the power to the radio. The TM has no such switch - unless you install one beside the radio!

Bill

[Leslie & Nick]

Didn't know that radio minus its faceplate still drew power from the TM battery. I'll have to remember to disconnect battery when I put the trailer up for the winter (not much of a winter here actually). I would guess the propane leak detctor/alarm is also a constant power draw (?).

BTW the new replacement radio I bought from Crutchfield was an "AIWA" - the CSR at Jensen whom I originally called, was not very helpful so I wasn't about to buy another Jensen (even though they're all probably manufactured by the same one or two companies anyway).

Nick

Originally Posted by Bill

Just as a note, though, the thing consumes quite a bit of power even when it is turned OFF! As I recall, removing the faceplate did not reduce the power consumption very much.

This power consumption matters when you put the TM in storage (unless you disconnect the battery, or keep a 3-stage charger on the battery). And of course it matters when you are dry-camping, trying to conserve every drop of battery power.
Bill

I pull the fuse in the TM that supplies power to the radio. It appears to be a separate circuit for just the radio. Left column, second fuse from the bottom. I store it in one of the unused slots. Mine is a 2005 TM 2720. The factory nicely labeled each fuse slot.

Much easier than disconnecting the battery.

Originally Posted by Leslie & Nick

I don't know if this has already been discussed, but I'm convinced that heat rising from the refrigerator "cooked" the TM's original radio. My reason is: I pulled the radio out of it's compartment above the refrigerator to see if I could get the faceplate dial to work again. No such luck of course (Jensen wanted as much to fix it as a new one would cost, but I'll get to that later). Anyway, while the radio was out of its "slot" I walked by the operating refigerator (AC power) and felt very warm air coming out of the "slot". The circulating fan was on, and refgigerator seems to work fine.

I didn't think this was a good environement for the radio - in the way of a proverbial "blast furnace". When I removed the vent grill from the outside of the TM I found a small piece of paper faced fiberglass wall insulation (the same kind that's in your house) haphazardly placed on top of the refrigerator. After some hunting around Home Depot, I found a piece of flexible sheet insulation. I cut a piece to snugly fit above the refigerator, and below the radio.

I think that I have the same problem. I also installed a Jensen radio, not the same model, and I think that it was also fried by the heat of the refrigerator. I do get FM stations, but very few AM stations. I also fixed the fiberglass insulation. I will have to look into it more.

genesc

[mjlaupp]

I installed a Kenwood radio with remote CD changer in my 2720SL. I was concerned about the heat problem since the radio is installed in a small sealed compartment. I did three things to help the problem:

1) I installed a computer CPU fan to the built in heat sink in the rear of the radio. I had to drill the CPU heat sink to allow installation of a screw. It is fastned where the rear support area for the radio would be installed. I powered it from the power antenna leads from the back of the radio. These leads are normally used to raise/lower a power antenna. I also spliced the amplified antenna power lead into this connection so that the only time the antenna is consuming power is when the radio is on.

2) I cut four notches in the front of the refrigerator cabinet under the counter top overhang. I had to remove the counter top to cut the notches. First I had to remove the insulation over the frige heat exchanger including the plywood insulation support. Then I could get to the angle bracket screws that hold the counter top to the cabinet. There are two in the front of the cabinet and two in the back of the cabinet. After the screws are removed, the counter top has to be pried up. It is sealed to the cabinet with silicone sealant. While the top is off you can find the place where the antenna power wire is spliced to the radio power wire. I removed the splice and added a wire extension to the antenna power lead so that I could get the power from the radio. Counter top installation is the reverse of the removal.

3) After the counter is re-installed look through the radio cutout and use a long stick to put the insulation back in place. With the refrigerator outside vents removed you can see daylight wherever the insulation is not in place.

The Kenwood radio has a function switch on the front with three selections, ALL OFF, RADIO & DISC PLAYER. The ALL OFF function turns everything off but keeps the front panel lit since I have the radio light power lead splaced to the radio power lead. However, if I hold the function switch in for 3 seconds it will turn the lights off. The only power consumption is then to hold the button and tuning memory on line. I have not noticed any power drwin on my batteries even when the unit is stored for two months or more. I do have 2 golf cart batteries installed.

The other current drain (propane detector) is disconnected when the rear bath wall is folded down.

The CD changer is sitting on top of the water tank under the sink. I used a piece of the non skid shelf matting to hold it in place.

Mike

[wbmiller3]

Our 2619 didn't come with a radio, but has the mounting hole. I would like to put in a radio that has weather band, but the only ones I can find that are car-radio sized with weather band are marine radios that cost big $$$. Anybody know of any car radios with weather band?

Thanks,
Bill

[Leslie & Nick]

Bill,

If you haven't done this already, I'd suggest giving Crutchfield a call at
1 888 955 6000. I looked at their web site, and they have a huge selection of car radios. The Crutchfield phone reps are quite knowledgeable and don't try to pressure you. They should be able to advise you as to what is available. Good luck in your search.
Nick