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Old 10-02-2008, 07:20 PM   #31
PopBeavers
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I had a crack at one of the welds for the street side bracket for the swing away hitch. I believe it was because of my experience that the factory made a small change to the way they do the weld. I posted pictures around here somewhere.

My son is a mechanical engineer. He says never drill a hole near the edge. That cost me 50 grand.

If someone wants his opinion I will be happy to ask him the next time he drops by. Please be specific about where you think you want to drill a hole.

I am paranoid enough about it that when I added a disconnect switch, I chose to use the angle iron that runs horizontally across the front edge of the front of the floor and the batter tray. I did not drill a hole in the frame.

I believe that the forces are rather high on the tongue when driving down the road due to bouncing. Depending on how the floor is attached to the frame, that might make the frame stiffer and therefore weaker in front of the floor.

Imagine where the bend would occur if the TM were connected to the truck and you were standing inside near the front jumping up and down. *THAT*, it seems to me, is a high stress point.
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Old 10-02-2008, 09:47 PM   #32
Mr. Adventure
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PopBeavers View Post
I had a crack at one of the welds for the street side bracket for the swing away hitch. I believe it was because of my experience that the factory made a small change to the way they do the weld. I posted pictures around here somewhere.

My son is a mechanical engineer. He says never drill a hole near the edge. That cost me 50 grand.

If someone wants his opinion I will be happy to ask him the next time he drops by. Please be specific about where you think you want to drill a hole.

I am paranoid enough about it that when I added a disconnect switch, I chose to use the angle iron that runs horizontally across the front edge of the front of the floor and the batter tray. I did not drill a hole in the frame.

I believe that the forces are rather high on the tongue when driving down the road due to bouncing. Depending on how the floor is attached to the frame, that might make the frame stiffer and therefore weaker in front of the floor.

Imagine where the bend would occur if the TM were connected to the truck and you were standing inside near the front jumping up and down. *THAT*, it seems to me, is a high stress point.
Your son meant to say "never drill a hole too near the edge."

Welds that are not complete or not done right are always good points of failure. Welds properly done are as strong as the adjoining material.

An engineering analysis of "bouncing" soon has one bouncing into differential equations, and I cheerfully defer to someone who's done it fewer decades ago than me, educated back in the days when men were sent to the moon with equipment designs done on bamboo slide rules to 3 significant figures.

Bouncing on the trailer axle springs is conceptually similar to bouncing on your tow vehicle rear axle (except your rear axle has better shock absorbers and lower tire pressures) (God only knows how these will make your differential equations come out differently, but they will, of course). Regardless, a 1000# tongue weight is a "high" stress point, but still a minor fraction of the loads on the frame that occur at the trailer axle (1000# versus 4000#, in round numbers, assuming the rest of the TM doesn't materially contribute to the TM's structural strength). There are shear loads at the trailer hitch, but minor bending loads. I'm suggesting here that frame failures other than broken welds are probably rare in the RV trailer business in general, and extremely rare among our relatively short TrailManor trailers, except where there might be manufacturer associated design problems.

As someone with one (ahem) experience with a disconnected trailer hitch coupler (NOT the TM, and the story could be on the dumb-things-done thread, but that adventure is really another story), I'd like to report that the safety chains will allow the trailer to skid nicely to a stop behind the tow vehicle, using the easily replaceable jack which can be quite easily and automatically bent into a front trailer skid. In this configuration, it's possible to do fine even going over railroad tracks. The engineering analysis was actually pretty boring, compared to the DW analysis. Fortunately, the WDH makes this particular incident very unlikely to happen because you have both the tongue weight and the spring bars holding the ball and coupler together.
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Reese 1000# round bar Weight Distributing Hitch
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Old 10-03-2008, 01:42 PM   #33
Virginia Deacon
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Hi, Mr. Adventure!

No, my one experience wasn't a "dumb things done" by me. I found out later that the hitch frame hadn't been properly hardened by the welder who made it, and it snapped off in cold weather. Thanks for your other comments though.
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Old 10-04-2008, 07:48 AM   #34
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My personal knowledge is extremely limited, consisting of a single adventure, which turned out remarkably well, all considered. For others, the experience might vary.
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2005 TrailManor 3023
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Reese 1000# round bar Weight Distributing Hitch
Prodigy brake controller.

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Old 10-26-2008, 05:06 PM   #35
Mccooleys
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Default Safety Cables

I just purchased a 2004 2720SD and it has these long cables instead of chains. What am I suppose to do with all that extra cable? I thought the intent to chains/cables was to keep the tongue off the ground in the event that it comes unhooked from the ball. With a chain one can shorten it by hooking the "s" hooks farther back on the chain. How do I take up the slack on these cables? Am I missing something here?

I would appreciate any advice please.

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Old 10-27-2008, 08:34 AM   #36
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Cross the cables underneath the tongue and that may use up some of the slack (and at least in Illinois, I believe, is required by law). My Ford Supercrew hitch has two attachment points on each side and, if yours is similar, use the furthest attachment points. Some hitch ball mounts are longer than others or are adjustible - a different mount may help. (West Marine has a pretty comprensive trailering selection in their catalog and on their website.) Hope this helps. I personally like the cables better than chains but it is much easier to adjust chains by removing a link, using a universal link, etc. - camp2canoe
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