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07-22-2014, 12:08 PM
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#11
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Orlando
Posts: 2,796
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I am sure the factory has an SOI on how to adjust the torsion bars with a chart of some sort. Has anyone seen a copy ? Could someone visiting the factory ask for a copy please ?
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Looking for a 24/17 in or near Florida.
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11-03-2014, 11:07 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 128
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Still no response on this from the factory??? Maybe that's part of the "magic smoke" that they don't want outta the box.....
I personally would love to have that info for future reference since I live four hours away from the nearest dealer......
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TV - 2011 Ford F150 3.5L v6 EcoBOOST --- SOLD
TM - 2014 2417KS SilverTrail --- SOLD
Purple Line Enduro Caravan Movers
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11-03-2014, 01:11 PM
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#13
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: The mountains of Scottsdale, AZ, and the beaches of Maine
Posts: 10,121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LoveToCamp
Be sure that the front of the front shell, (or the back of the rear shell), is down on the rubber stops on the ends, before trying to latch. I have found that, if I didn't have my front shell on the rubber stops, it was next to impossible to latch the release levers. But, if I make sure the front shell is resting on the rubber stops, I can latch it very easily. On my curb side, I have to pull down on the shell's top as I walk from the front to the back, so I can latch it. If I would think about it when I am going out to set it up, I would take a wrench and loosen the bolt for the front curb side torsion arm.
If your front (of the front shell) is not resting on the stops, back-out the adjustment bolts for the front of the shell a quarter-turn at a time, until it rests properly. Adjust while the shell is open, and test after each adjustment. As Padgett says, it is a little bit at a time.
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I'm not at all convinced that this is a torsion bar issue. And since torsion bar adjustments are difficult to reset precisely once done, I would avoid playing in that area until nothing else works.
LoveToCamp, I think you may be on the right track. I say this with a blush, having just been through this issue. But if I am reading correctly, your post reverses "front" and "rear". The rear shell closes first. On the front corners of the rear shell, inside, are two rubber bumpers. Once you have closed and latched the rear shell, you can see them by sticking your head over the front wall of the TM and into the interior while the front shell is still up. These bumpers must come down onto the top of the wall. If they don't come down onto the wall, the rear shell is not down far enough, which will make it very difficult to close the front shell over it. The rear shell latches may need to be lowered a bit, to pull the rear shell farther down. Or, as in my case, something inside may prevent the rear shell from coming down all the way. Perhaps bedding, as KidKraz mentioned. Or, since you have a 2720SL, where do you store the chair? I discovered that neither the front or rear of the chair can be up on the step of the slider. Who knew?
There is a picture of these bumpers in Post #18 here
http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ad.php?t=14619
Start with this question. When you close the front shell, does it swing down nicely almost all the way, and hang up only in the last couple inches? Or does it get progressively harder and harder all the way down? The latter would indicate torsion bars too tight. The former would suggest that the rear shell is too high, since the front shell has no problems until it contacts the front shell. Then, when you jump on the stirrup, it is difficult because you are lowering both the front and the rear shell at the same time.
Let us know.
Bill
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11-03-2014, 01:37 PM
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#14
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Somerset, OH
Posts: 1,868
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Thanks Bill.
My unit is about the same; easy to open the front shell, but more difficult to close. I will try making sure I not only latch the rear shell when steeping on the stirrups, but that I latch the rear latches on the rear shell before I lower the front shell.
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Art & Joyce
Current camper: Motor Home
Previous: 2009, 3023-QB and 2003 2720
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11-04-2014, 07:04 AM
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#15
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Big Bend area, Florida
Posts: 2,120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmferg
I have found that latching the curb side first then the street side goes much easier than the other way around. If the second side is difficult unlatch and reverse the order.
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The dealer we bought ours from new instructed us to close the street side first. When we first got it I had to jump into the stirrups to get it to latch. Over time it has gotten to the point I have to step into only one stirrup to latch the street side rear shell. Both shells open easily.
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Axis 24.1 E 450 chassis, 6 spd tranny. GVWR 14500# GVCWR 22000 # GW(scales) 12400 #
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11-04-2014, 08:31 AM
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#16
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Orlando
Posts: 2,796
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Mine was nice until I removed the awning, now the front is hard to close. Since I have a new awning & just need a round tuit, have not adjusted anything.
__________________
Looking for a 24/17 in or near Florida.
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11-04-2014, 09:01 AM
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#17
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Somerset, OH
Posts: 1,868
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scrubjaysnest, are you saying that you only have to step on the front street side stirrup and not on any other stirrup? I assume you only need to push down on the shell for those other locations? Is you front heavy to pull out?
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Art & Joyce
Current camper: Motor Home
Previous: 2009, 3023-QB and 2003 2720
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