TrailManor Owner's Forum  

Go Back   TrailManor Owner's Forum > TrailManor Technical Discussions > Plumbing
Register FAQ Members List Calendar

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 06-11-2013, 02:41 PM   #11
pauloh
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Black Hills, SD
Posts: 90
Default quick question before re-install of toilet

Toilet is out...more on that soon. Looking up through hole in bottom (with the slide/valve now removed) I see the metal screen, and also the sock or whatever it is called, with what appear to be 2 rubber bands holding it over the opening. Sock looks like it is torn, and certainly looks nasty (unlike the rest of the toilet I must say). Do I understand I could remove this and no real harm done? We don't travel with the toilet charged (I believe this sock is for anti-splash during travel?) and rarely if ever use it for "#2" if that matters.
__________________
Pauloh
TM: 2004 3124KB
Maxxis ST225/75R-15D1 tires
TV: 2007 Toyota 4Runner, V8, 4x4
Tekonsha P3 Brake Controller
Reese 49586-020 Trunnion WDH
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
pauloh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2013, 04:35 PM   #12
ShrimpBurrito
Site Sponsor
 
ShrimpBurrito's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Sunny Beaches of Los Angeles
Posts: 3,246
Default

Presumably, the "sock" you refer to is the vinyl skirt -- it is opaque and has the consistency of a brittle shower curtain. It basically fits over the chute like a sock, and also has a lead rod weight in the bottom of it. If so, and you are so inclined, I would remove it. I have removed mine, travel with the toilet charged (and full, for that matter), and use the toilet for "#2", and I have experienced no ill effects.

Dave
__________________
2000 2720SL & 2007 3124KB
2005 Toyota Sequoia
Twin Battle Born 12v 100Ah LiFePO4 (BBGC2) batteries, 300W solar on rear shell, Link 10, Lift kit, Maxxis 8008 225 75/R15 E tires
ShrimpBurrito is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2013, 09:51 PM   #13
pauloh
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Black Hills, SD
Posts: 90
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ShrimpBurrito View Post
Presumably, the "sock" you refer to is the vinyl skirt -- it is opaque and has the consistency of a brittle shower curtain. It basically fits over the chute like a sock, and also has a lead rod weight in the bottom of it. If so, and you are so inclined, I would remove it. I have removed mine, travel with the toilet charged (and full, for that matter), and use the toilet for "#2", and I have experienced no ill effects.

Dave
I took it out, the ugliest grimiest thing in the whole project. Thanks for confirming that will be OK.
__________________
Pauloh
TM: 2004 3124KB
Maxxis ST225/75R-15D1 tires
TV: 2007 Toyota 4Runner, V8, 4x4
Tekonsha P3 Brake Controller
Reese 49586-020 Trunnion WDH
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
pauloh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2013, 10:02 PM   #14
pauloh
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Black Hills, SD
Posts: 90
Default

Well here's my final report on fixing a leaking Thetford toilet. I hope it's not too long and boring but might help someone else especially if their retaining clips/wedges/slides (I will use "wedges" from now on) were installed backwards as mine certainly were. It's hard to knock them loose working from the front of the toilet, if they are in backwards. I finally realized there was better access from the side of the toilet (especially on the right, where you can see right in there, see photo), so you can see where to place a long, flat-bladed screwdriver, or some other long blunt tool, and then tap with a hammer if you can hold it in position while doing so. It's very awkward laying there on your side trying to get your flashlight in the right spot, hold your tools, drink your beer, etc. The left side has even less room to maneuver as the shower wall is right there (on a 2004 3124KB) so you may need just the right length screwdriver or other long thin blunt device to reach in to the back of the clip from an angle, so you can hit the other end with a hammer and force the wedge out.

I had placed about 100 lbs. of books (had them stored in boxes nearby anyway) on the seat of the toilet (not on the lid, as Dave said, that could crack easily) hoping to compress the bottom donut/ring and reduce the amount of pressure on the wedges. It may have helped but they were still quite tight, but a few raps with hammer on the screwdriver (and a few &%#@@$ misses) and they finally popped loose. They may move back a bit with each "rap" and then pop loose. You can try to get a flat screwdriver aligned on the front of the clip (closest to toilet front, when clips are in backwards), but there's not much there to hit against, and the back of the clip is mostly hidden behind the nut. Its not easy.

On left side near the shower wall where space is tighter, I used a combination of first loosening the nut above the wedge through contortions with various wrenches/pliers, plus tapping the wedge with various items including a flat-blade screwdriver and an allen wrench that happened to be about the right length and blunt on the end. Eventually worked the clip loose on the left side also. A small piece of it, a lip of sorts which holds it in the metal track, broke off but this didn't affect re-installation, just made the wedge a little loose in the track.

Another idea: Before starting, take a magic marker and trace the front legs of the toilet, so you can see where it was originally in the re-install. Mine actually had the factory locator disc under the right leg, but it was still helpful to see the black line as I was lowering the toilet back into position. I also put a black mark on each nut before I began hoping to keep them in the same position for the re-install.

Whoever installed this toilet (at the factory) had used so much caulk that I had a somewhat hard time pulling up the toilet. I thought I had missed a screw and was a going to break something off while pulling up. I was not hitting agains the nuts at the clips/wedges (which is possible to do if you aren't lifting straight up). Finally gave it a good yank. At this stage of the operation I was about ready to go buy a portapottie anyway! It came loose, I put it outside, and then I spent a half hour cleaning out old caulk from the floor flange. I had a new valve/slide to replace the caulk-coated one (leaky also as it turned out), so I didn't have to clean it, just removed it. I took photos while taking off the old valve/slide in case of trouble but putting the new one on is a fairly simple task with 4 screws.

Earlier in this thread, the foam donut was discussed…the thin one that comes installed on the valve/slide, a thicker donut that you may receive if ordered separately for this toilet, and now I learned the original donut on the old slide was another variation…about as thick as the thinner one on the new slide, but it had silicone parts, little squares of silicone (visible in a photo here) built into it, that went up into recesses on the valve/slide. These recesses are present on the new valve/slide, but the new donuts don't make use of them. Upon reinstall, I used the donut that was already on my new valve/slide. I am guessing the thicker one would have been OK, but probably would have meant putting the adjustment nuts at a slightly higher level.

Tell you what, you get good at removing/installing those wedges the 2nd and 3rd time you pull the toilet but its far easier with the wedges not installed backwards! Use the right one as a guide to how far in the wedge needs to be tapped when replacing, then compare distance "in" with the left one (which you can't see from the side as well). I didn't have the nuts tightened down enough at first, so had some wobble so I pulled the toilet 2 more times (I'm slow, but I get there) and kept adding 1 turn tighter on the nut until there was no rocking of the toilet on install. As Bill's tutorial says, it looks like about 1 11/32 inches to the top of the nut was about right, or maybe 1/16 lower than that on my floor.

Oh yes, the leak?? It looks like the valve/slide itself had a leak behind the pull handle…there was dried blue fluid along the crack there, so the seal within the slide (which can be user-replaced, vs. buying an entire new slide like I did) was leaking a bit. Probably getting worse with age. As far as I could tell, the donut was not leaking anywhere. I did not add any caulk, as Bill said, I couldn't see how it would add anything here. I did caulk the edges of my vinyl flooring around the flange on the floor, just to seal things up in case of future leaks, hoping to keep the leak on the vinyl not underneath it in the wood sub-floor.

Put the pump assembly back together, power back on, charged the toilet, no leaks so far. I left the trim off the toilet base for our upcoming trip for ease of access to those clips in case something works loose in travel.

Many, many thanks to Bill and Dave for helping me through this! Also had one private message that was helpful.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20130611-4513.jpg
Views:	90
Size:	208.5 KB
ID:	8567   Click image for larger version

Name:	20130611-4526.jpg
Views:	86
Size:	186.7 KB
ID:	8568   Click image for larger version

Name:	20130611-4535.jpg
Views:	93
Size:	217.7 KB
ID:	8569   Click image for larger version

Name:	20130611-4537.jpg
Views:	108
Size:	253.0 KB
ID:	8570  
__________________
Pauloh
TM: 2004 3124KB
Maxxis ST225/75R-15D1 tires
TV: 2007 Toyota 4Runner, V8, 4x4
Tekonsha P3 Brake Controller
Reese 49586-020 Trunnion WDH
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
pauloh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2016, 05:03 PM   #15
TM Pilot
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Colorado
Posts: 195
Default

Yesterday, I had the honor of experiencing pulling out the Thetford Electra Magic Model 80 toilet to replace the seals on the EZ-Valve. As you can see from the picture, the seal for the valve was trashed. So if I filled up the toilet with water, it would leak past the EZ slide and fill up the drain pipe with water. Air would bubble up from the EZ valve into the toilet as the air inside the drain pipe was displace by the water.

I'll add two notes to what has already been written on this subject (thanks to all for the posts). First, I had to set my closet bolts to 1.25" instead of the 1.34" Thetford recommends. They were set at 1.25" from the factory. I tried the 1.34" but reset them back to 1.25 after I noticed the toilet was rocking slightly on the 1.34" setting. So the 1.34" setting is not an absolute in every particular TM.

Second, after the install I filled the toilet with water to check for leaks. No air bubbles were present inside the toilet. However, the outside toilet drain valve was open and water was still slowly dripping past the EZ slide and down the drain pipe. After I closed the outside drain valve, I looked inside the toilet and still noticed no air bubbles. After several hours I pulled the EZ slide handle and "whooosh." So why the continuous leak with the outside valve open? After running this scenario several times, the only think I can think of is that since the seal rests on top of the slide, as the air is displace with water inside the drain pipe it pushes the slide up tighter against the seal and stops the slow dripping. Whatever the physics, with the outside toilet drain valve closed, I always get the "Whooosh" sound of victory to this dirty job.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Seal.jpeg
Views:	47
Size:	1.03 MB
ID:	13545  
__________________
2007 TM 2619
2.5" Lift Kit; Maxxis M8008 ST205/75R15 8-Ply (65psi); Mud Flaps
Champion 75531i 3100 Watts Inverter Generator; Renogy 100 Watts Foldable Solar Suitcase
Thetford SmartTote 18LX
-------------------------------------------------------
2005 F150 5.4l 3V Triton V8; Maxxis Bravo H/T-770
Tekonsha Prodigy Brake Controller
RideControl by Air Lift
TM Pilot is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2016, 07:13 PM   #16
[email protected]
BannedUsers
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 466
Angry my wedges were in backwards!

I kept trying to pull on the brass colored slide stop end...you'll see what I mean when you get that abomination out...I finally took a wrench and loosened those nuts and pushed those wedges free towards the wall ....boy was I hacked after trying to get those out for 45 minutes!!!

If you know Froggy the Gremlin (a character on a 1950's kids tv show starring Andy Devine), who always interrupts and causes folks to say the wrong things (go look him up on youtube), while I would say "what you need to use on that toilet is... (then Froggy would say interrupting me)"two sticks of dynamite"!.....and he'd be right! Pauloh, you're a prime candidate for the Dometic Sealand 711 M28C real flush toilet from Scamp Trailers! Ditch that stinker and get real...toilet that is....it's the best thing you could do to your TM....don't make me write a note to the management!
lnt123@att.net is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
The Thetford toilet: a virtual tour and fixing it for good ShrimpBurrito Plumbing 172 12-11-2015 01:39 PM
The TM's recirculating toilet Bill TrailManor Technical Library 1 11-03-2015 02:43 PM
Toilet leak and removal brulaz Trailmanor Elkmont Models 4 05-18-2012 10:02 PM
Major Toilet Problem Caused by TM, Not Thetford Virginia Deacon Plumbing 13 09-11-2011 08:27 PM
Removing the TM toilet Bill TrailManor Technical Library 0 06-21-2007 07:21 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:13 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 2022 Trailmanor Owners Page.