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11-07-2012, 11:37 AM
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#11
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Guest
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Bill-I've appreciated all your posts that I've read (and especially like this one). I've had a couple other trailers/popups etc and winterized recently. It kept feeling like 'this is too easy-I must be doing it wrong'. You've assured me I didn't . I did do one step you don't mention...my owners manual says to disconnect both lines at the water pump. I may try to avoid that one in the future though-it was a bear to get to one of the connections
Now - if we can just get one more warm streak in I can go out again (but won't be using the onboard plumbing---just gallon jugs and maybe the toilet which will be redrained)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill
Because there is no water in the water system to freeze. The system is easy to drain by gravity. Just open the four drain valves under the camper, and turn on the faucets inside the camper. These steps drain all the water out of the system, including the water heater and the fresh water tank, with four easy exceptions. The exceptions are:
1. The water pump. After draining the system, run it for 5 seconds or so clear the pump chamber.
2. The kitchen faucet sprayer. After draining, unscrew the spray head and shake it out.
3. The bathroom shower head. After draining, unscrew the spray head and shake it out.
4. The outside shower head. After draining, turn on both outside shower valves, and remove the shower head and shake it out.
Having done this, there is no water left in the system to freeze.
Bill
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11-07-2012, 12:19 PM
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#12
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Sunny Beaches of Los Angeles
Posts: 3,257
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CeeWoo
I did do one step you don't mention...my owners manual says to disconnect both lines at the water pump. I may try to avoid that one in the future though-it was a bear to get to one of the connections
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If there is water in the water pump chamber when it freezes, the diaphragm will rupture and will require replacement. ($15-$20) Not the end of the world, and not hard to do, but you will need to remove the pump to do it. Been there, done that -- was on a trip where we didn't stay in the TM for a night, during which it got down into the 20s.
You might be able to get rid of the water without disconnecting the lines if you drain all the plumbing and then run the pump dry for 30 sec or so (which does not damage the pump). I live in LA, so I don't have to winterize.
Dave
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2005 Toyota Sequoia
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11-07-2012, 01:54 PM
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#13
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Guest
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I know what you mean CeeWoo...I put it away and winterize it, then we get 2 weeks of 65-70 degree weather! I was thinking this morning I should take it out one more time. Probably won't though. Dang it.
I do need to go run the pump dry though...thanks all, this is always a good thread even though we cover it every year. Good sanity check...
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11-07-2012, 02:26 PM
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#14
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: The mountains of Scottsdale, AZ, and the beaches of Maine
Posts: 10,121
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I've never had the pump freeze, but I can see how a bit of water might get trapped in the pump unless the outlet pipe is routed downward, or removed from the pump. If it is hard to remove (it shouldn't be), this is one case where a puff of air would ensure that all the water is out. But beware - you must blow the air into the fresh water storage tank (after closing the tank's drain valve), which is not strong enough to stand much pressure. Rumbleweed has used 20 psi, so that should be OK.
See the plumbing diagram here.
http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...&pictureid=435
Bill
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11-07-2012, 03:09 PM
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#15
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Guest
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShrimpBurrito
If there is water in the water pump chamber when it freezes, the diaphragm will rupture and will require replacement. ($15-$20) Not the end of the world, and not hard to do, but you will need to remove the pump to do it. Been there, done that -- was on a trip where we didn't stay in the TM for a night, during which it got down into the 20s.
You might be able to get rid of the water without disconnecting the lines if you drain all the plumbing and then run the pump dry for 30 sec or so (which does not damage the pump). I live in LA, so I don't have to winterize.
Dave
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RutRoh! I disconnected (and some water did come out of the pump and lines which I wiped up) but I'm getting the feeling I should I have run the pump afterward just to pump out any remaining water?
!
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08-11-2013, 10:29 AM
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#16
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 538
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill
Because there is no water in the water system to freeze. The system is easy to drain by gravity. Just open the four drain valves under the camper, and turn on the faucets inside the camper. These steps drain all the water out of the system, including the water heater and the fresh water tank, with four easy exceptions. The exceptions are:
1. The water pump. After draining the system, run it for 5 seconds or so clear the pump chamber.
2. The kitchen faucet sprayer. After draining, unscrew the spray head and shake it out.
3. The bathroom shower head. After draining, unscrew the spray head and shake it out.
4. The outside shower head. After draining, turn on both outside shower valves, and remove the shower head and shake it out.
Having done this, there is no water left in the system to freeze.
Bill
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Bill
If I don't ever use these will they still have water in them? My thinking is that unless I turn on the faucets at these locations then there shouldn't be any water at either spot. Would that be correct?
Sara
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Both purchased July 2013
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08-11-2013, 02:07 PM
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#17
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Big Bend area, Florida
Posts: 2,120
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There will be water to the out side shower faucets. We had to replace the spray in the kitchen even though we don't use it. We even put low air pressure on the city water fill and blow all the lines after draining.
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