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03-24-2012, 10:15 PM
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#11
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Guest
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The 2 6 volt batteries which are in sequence have a small external fuse to protect the system. I am not sure what size fuse should be in there as I blew all the fuses I had in there from before.
The TM works great off the plug in and all the fuses on board are fine as well.
Sorry if I confused anyone with this post as I have been meaning to address this issue for a 2-3 months. Just wondering what could be going on as I really love and use my TM.
Today my buddy put in an 8 amp fuse probably while it was charging. His son said he saw something come from the front of the trailer which was a spark or something. I probably need to have my buddy check it out who is an electrician as it is getting a little more difficult to explain on a forum.
Thanks for all your feedback and welcome anything else anyone has to offer.
Brent
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03-24-2012, 11:02 PM
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#12
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 621
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Yes, I agree that you need to have someone with electrical experience take a look at it.
Let them know that, as Bill told you earlier, you should have a 30A fuse on the positive lead of your battery.
Tim
__________________
Previous owners of a great 2010 [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] TM2720SL.
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03-25-2012, 09:13 AM
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#13
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Guest
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I would definitely replace the fuse holder with a automotive blade type holder as the 3AG style holder is marginal to start with ( subject to corrosion and case breaking ) and doesn't hold well if you had a major short which probably overheated it. Place a 30A fuse in the holder. Once you have the holder replaced turn on one light and let it go for 30 mins. If nothing happens, then you have things wired correctly and no shorts in the basic wiring. Now turn things on one at a time let them run a while to see if the fuse blows. You should be able to run most all lights and the furnace blower without blowing the fuse. When running test make sure the Fridge is not set to operate on DC is it draws a significant amount of current.
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03-27-2012, 12:42 PM
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#14
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Guest
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You can use (buy or borrow) an inductive amp probe/multi-meter to find what component is drawing the overload. You simply put the wire for each circuit in the inductive loop and it will tell you how many amps it is drawing.
http://www.amazon.com/Amprobe-ACDC-1...d_sim_sbs_hi_4
Koz
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03-27-2012, 01:42 PM
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#15
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: The mountains of Scottsdale, AZ, and the beaches of Maine
Posts: 10,123
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That is a great meter, Koz, but kinda pricey. HarveyRV has posted about another great one from Sears for about half the price. IMO, this one is worth buying.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_03482369000P
Bill
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03-27-2012, 01:59 PM
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#16
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Sunny Beaches of Los Angeles
Posts: 3,259
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill
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I bought this meter on harveyrv's recommendation a few years ago, and it is excellent. You won't find a decent clamp on DC ammeter for less, anywhere. Clamp-on AC is easy to find....inexpensive clamp-on DC meters are not so easy.
Dave
__________________
2000 2720SL & 2007 3124KB
2005 Toyota Sequoia
Twin Battle Born 12v 100Ah LiFePO4 (BBGC2) batteries, 300W solar on rear shell, Link 10, Lift kit, Maxxis 8008 225 75/R15 E tires
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03-27-2012, 03:48 PM
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#17
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Guest
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill
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Looks really good for the money.
Koz
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03-28-2012, 04:50 AM
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#18
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Big Bend area, Florida
Posts: 2,120
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I got the one from Sears, works great.
__________________
Axis 24.1 E 450 chassis, 6 spd tranny. GVWR 14500# GVCWR 22000 # GW(scales) 12400 #
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
mods: 2- 100 watt solar panels, on roof, 300 watts portable
“They who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety.” Benjamin Franklin
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