New member. New owner. 3023 rejuvenation questions

[Padgett]

Well I am assuming when he said "4-door" that meant an "Unlimited" which is almost as big as my GC & has the same engine. If it has the 4.10 axle and a 4.46:1 first gear then getting started should not be an issue.

Am also assuming he has the Max Tow Package which is rated at 350/3500 hence my comment that it is marginal on the trailer weight but may have an issue with the tongue weight (Class II hitch).

OTOH before I knew about weight limits I towed a lot more with a lot less just did it slowly (Indiana to Texas at 50 mph max). Used to tow mainly on the coolant temperature gauge. Most important thing to remember is to NEVER out drive your brakes.

With my GC with towing package and the 2720SL, 65 mph is a comfortable cruise in flatlands.

[hillbillyhotel]

I had the same thought r.v.c.g. is that enough for the tm fully loaded , I found out what having one g. kid along added to the trip weight, them add two, ?
let me back up and say welcome z , we will work hard to make you look good in front of dw and kids In this camping,
we also started in the same way yrs ago, as a way to have a family vac. we could afford. our first trailer was a old pop-up.
do your family and yourself a favor, become a full member, it is the best 12.00 you will ever spend on your tm, I still lean things here from these fine folks. and learn to embrace the search keys, and again welcome.

Welcome.
The first thing I'd do is spend the $12 so you maintain full access to this forum...

Thank you for the replies.

Lots of good info.
Here is what I've done so far.
1. Took everything apart in the hitch area. Cleaned and sanded /painted the metal that was starting to show rust. Cleaned and greased the hitch ball assembly. It now works great. I added the hitch safety pin.
Painted the propane tray and changed all the zip ties holding the hoses and cables.
2. Will be changing the propane tanks this weekend. Haven't started on the inside yet. I still have to service/change tires, brakes and wheel bearings.
3. Shed weight. I will need to be weight conscious, as if not careful, this thing can exceed my vehicles tow rating.
4. Found the emergency brake cable. I need to figure out where the safety chain needs to connect on the trailer and where the safety brake cable attaches to the TV.
5 steam clean/detail recommendation in SoCal. Need to do this.
Also, are there low profile mattress toppers?
Will keep all posted.

Z

[LoveToCamp]

4. I connect my breakaway brake cable to the same loop as my safety chains. Just make sure there is unobstructed movement for the cable, so turns don't pull on it.

Also: We got a double-mattress air bed from Camping World. They don't have it visible online right now, so I can't link to it. But, we also have a 3" egg-crate mattress topper on it. When deflated for travel, there is room for bedding, topper, and mattresses. They take up almost all of the king-sized tray. I got some foam (6" x 4", x ~7') to put along DW side, so she has a place for watch, phones, etc. Works quite well, in our book.

[Bill]

Originally Posted by Zartoon

4... I need to figure out where the safety chain needs to connect on the trailer and where the safety brake cable attaches to the TV.

Z -

I'm sure you realize that the safety chains are permanently bolted to the trailer. They are hooked to, and unhooked from, the tow vehicle.

When you look at the back of the tow vehicle, you will see the hitch receiver. That is the 2-inch square box into which you slide the stem of the ball mount (hitch). On each side of the box, and very near it, will be a loop or a hole - configurations vary. Pass the end of each safety chain under the trailer coupler to the opposite side, then drop the hook on the end of each safety chain through the loop or hole. It simply hangs there by gravity.

I went to a hitch web site, grabbed some photos as examples, and attached them below. In each case you can see the attachment points for the safety chains. The first one has oval holes in a vertical plate, the second has round holes in a horizontal plate, and the third one has welded loops (this third photo shows a Class II hitch, though, instead of the Class III needed for a TM).

The clip on the break-away cable (I use a small spring-loaded carabiner) can be attached to any secure point on the rear of the vehicle, near the center. Many folks clip it into the same hole/loop as the saafety chain. I don't put it there for a number of reasons, none of them overwhelming.

Bill

[Bailey'sMom]

Originally Posted by tentcamper

Welcome.

7. Clean fresh water tank. How? If you don't have any mold in the tank. Just add about a cup of plain bleach to the holding tank. Fill the tank with water. Then run the pump until water comes out of the cold and hot faucets. Let the camper sit for a couple of hours and pump all the water through the system. Drain the system at the low point drains. Refill with clean water repeat the steps. Somewhere along the process you will need to drain the gray water tank. I normaly just open the gra water at the start of the process.

.

Z. I would clarify this advice to tell you after allowing the bleach to sit for a couple hours, you should then make sure to run enough clear water through the system until it runs clean with no smell or taste of bleach. I typically run thru two full tanks of clear water after sanitizing with the bleach.

[Bailey'sMom]

Originally Posted by Bill

Z -

I will comment on #20, simply because it seems so important. If I read you correctly, you think you may be driving around with the hitch mechanism not fully closed and latched over the ball. The hitch weight of a TM is high, so the hitch probably won't bounce off the ball. But probably isn't a good word in this situation.

Take a quick look at the three pictures below. And yes, my hitch is still dirty after my last trip, please ignore that.

In picture #1, the hitch is open. The arrows point out two holes, one in the body of the hitch, and one in the latch lever. When the hitch is fully closed and latched, these holes will line up. There is another pair on the other side of the coupler, of course.

In picture #2, the hitch is closed and latched. Or is it? It is hard to be sure simply by looking at it.

In picture #3, I have slipped the hitch pin through all four holes and out the other side. If the hitch is not fully closed and latched, the pin will not go through. This is the only way to guarantee that you are good to go.

I ALWAYS use the hitch pin, because I did it wrong once, and scared myself half to death. A hitch pin costs about $4 at most hardware stores, big box stores, or RV service places. I recommend that everyone get one.

BTW, there are many items that go by the name "hitch clip" or "hitch pin". Most have a pin that is too big to go through the holes, so look for the kind that I've pictured. I think I got mine from the local NAPA Auto Parts store (cat # BK7552408).

Bill

Excellent advice. Another test that I ALWAYS do is this. Once I think it is fully latched, I raise the trailer UP again until the point that it begins lifting the car also. Once it does that, I know for sure that it is fully latched.

My dad always told me to do this, and I learned the hard way (a very long time ago) why this is very important.

[Padgett]

You may think it is latched but if it goes "clank" when you start or stop, it isn't.

[rvcycleguy]

Originally Posted by Padgett

You may think it is latched but if it goes "clank" when you start or stop, it isn't.

Use a hitch locking pin and you know its locked. The hitch pin holes won't line up if the coupler is not locked down.