Upgrade ideas for the "new" TM

[HoMiPa]

Originally Posted by BrucePerens

External steps set into below-floor area rather than hanging from bottom of trailer. One or two internal steps built in at door.
Shells overlap the below-floor area when closed.
AC, tanks, batteries, heaters, wheel wells, plumbing, spare tire, wiring, gas piping, converter, solar controller, torsion bars, water fills and valves all in below-floor area and fully enclosed except for necessary ports to outside.

All the 'below floor' ideas will basically increase the overall height of the trailer by at least 1', quite possibly 2', or, be some combination of decreasing the available height of interior cabinets, etc on lower half and increasing overall height of trailer. Bottom line is, opened up, you will have an increase in height, and when closed, that increase has to be absorbed somewhere. My parents had a travel trailer that was what the industry called a 'basement model' - meaning all that stuff you mentioned, was below floor level. The 'basement' was 2' high. Gave you lots of actual usable cabinet space inside, since holding tanks, etc, were subfloor, and plenty of external access storage areas as well (and face it, no one wants external storage areas that are only 1' tall, hence the reason I think it would have to be 2' tall). But man, that trailer was honking HUGE. In a TM, that increased height would then mess with the wind resistance, and add weight to the trailer as well.

[rvcycleguy]

Bruce,

If not on the roof, where do you mount the AC? To be efficient coverage to cool the unit effectively?

As you know, the older units had the AC stuffed into the cabinetry adjacent to the bathroom.

Rv

[Shane826]

If they mounted the A/C in a street/off-door side cabinet, they could also hide ductwork to evenly distribute cold air throughout the cabin.

I like a lot of the ideas listed above, some I don't really follow but they sound cool! Biggest issue, of course, is cost. And this new company should probably first look at ways to LOWER the initial price. TMs are some of the most expensive campers around, they need to get away from the "$30k for a pop-up?!? NO THANKS!" initial reaction so they can sell some units. A TM in the campground with a friendly, knowledgeable, HAPPY owner is the best salesperson they can ask for. Also they need to rebuild their dealer network and educate the salespeople on how to operate these campers.

[Bill]

Bruce -

I don't disagree with you about the value of the updates you suggest. However, the buyer is undoubtedly seeking a turnkey design - something he can build right now, with existing inventory and tooling, to recoup the costs of the purchase and bring the new company into profitability as soon as possible. IMO, this is the mistake that TMMC made with the Rise, the Mini, and the PowerLift. They should have stabilized the new company before branching out to new products. And then re-established the dealer network, currently almost non-existent.

Only at that point would it be appropriate to contemplate fundamental design updates.

Your ideas are all good, and from a fertile engineering mind. Give them two or three years with the base product, and then ...

Just my opinion, and I am no businessman ...

Bill

[RottieMom]

Originally Posted by rvcycleguy

Bruce,

If not on the roof, where do you mount the AC? To be efficient coverage to cool the unit effectively?

As you know, the older units had the AC stuffed into the cabinetry adjacent to the bathroom.

Rv

I was wondering the same thing. If not on the roof, where would you put the AC.

[rvcycleguy]

Originally Posted by RottieMom

I was wondering the same thing. If not on the roof, where would you put the AC.

There's a reply that suggests placing in the cabinetry as the older models did back in the 90's and running duct fore and aft? How to do you get the duct past the door opening, by going under the camper, not realistic and with cold air sinking it's not wise to to vent the cold air close to waist high or lower. Only camper I know that does that is a tent style pop up due to no hard roof.

Years ago in some models they placed the AC in the rear only and also in the rear window. Not efficient either. I had a 3326 that needed exposed ducting ( low profile type on the ceiling) to get the cold air back down the hallway to the rear bed.

[Shane826]

Originally Posted by rvcycleguy

There's a reply that suggests placing in the cabinetry as the older models did back in the 90's and running duct fore and aft? How to do you get the duct past the door opening...

Re-read my post. That's why I said put the A/C on the OTHER SIDE (off-door/street side). As for the cold air sinking, can't help ya there. But then what's the point of a heat pump in some of the newer rooftop A/C models? Hot air rises, so what good does it do?

[rvcycleguy]

Originally Posted by Shane826

Re-read my post. That's why I said put the A/C on the OTHER SIDE (off-door/street side). As for the cold air sinking, can't help ya there. But then what's the point of a heat pump in some of the newer rooftop A/C models? Hot air rises, so what good does it do?

It doesn't. A heat pump is not that efficient. Off street side? You've got the bathroom, won't go there, kitchen, won't go there, living room, got fresh water storage, pump, seating and oh yea... The furnace.

Most campers use the furnace or more likely, a floor model electric ceramic or oil filled heater. It's quiet and efficient.

As we know, on some models and years, the AC is optional. Just take it out. Hahahaha...

[Padgett]

All good ideas but somewhat PBIs. Most either increase weight, add height, or reduce ground clearance. Not saying the package could not be improved but would need a group of people (like this forum) to discuss.

One thing not well appreciated is that most of the heavy items (a/c, fridge, water tanks) are close to being centered on the axle.

Had a ducted basement A/C in my Vixen RV but was under the table/second bed and rather loud. Out in the open up top, little of the noise enters the cabin and no problem with A Lot of cooling air. Now in the last few decades there have been advances in weight/size/noise/low power compressors to the point that I would be thinking about combining the refrigerator and A/C, both do the same thing.

The other major change is that most now get infotainment from the Internet and not OTA. Am surprised there has never been a hot/spot extended antenna option.

For that matter the whole power system is pretty far out of date & personally would make 300W of solar with dual GC2s an option, not 80. Would also make it so power could be accepted from any 15A 120/240vac system. May be odd but little of my camping is done at formal campgrounds with facilities, is more likely to be a "mobile guest room" & every year I spend a week dry camping at an air show.

Guess that is part of the reason am thinking about selling mine, is "tricked out" just about as far as currently possible and am ready for something new and maybe smaller.

Still what makes the TM unique is the expansion and the parallelogram/torque arms is a brilliant design. For instance would like to look at slides for both ends & folding bunk beds for one end.

Part of TM's problem IMNSHO is the focus on a single market: conventional campers who use campgrounds. To me there are many more potential applications. For instance collapsible hard sided, self contained, and waterproof emergency shelters (Bill mentioned this). Fully self contained portable hunting blinds. Portable offices. Or even COWs.

Consider the possibility of a smaller unit with swing tongue that could be stood on end against a wall. Probably wouldn't work but just a thought.

[klpauba]

Originally Posted by rvcycleguy

A heat pump is not that efficient.
..snip..
Most campers use the furnace or more likely, a floor model electric ceramic or oil filled heater. It's quiet and efficient.

Yes, electric heat is efficient. But a heat pump will concentrate more heat into the space than an electric heater for the same electric costs. But in the colder months, I usually pay a flat rate for electricity at a campground so it doesn't much matter to me.

Originally Posted by rvcycleguy

Off street side? You've got the bathroom, won't go there, kitchen, won't go there, living room, got fresh water storage, pump, seating and oh yea... The furnace.

If the A/C evaporator were placed in the subfloor, I bet a duct/diffuser could go in the bathroom. If the water heater, water tank and pump were down there too, there would be room for a duct/diffuser in a kitchen cabinet. Perhaps an integrated duct could be inside the clothes cabinet (armoire) to deliver air to the sleeping area.

C'mon, I'm just brainstormin'/dreamin' here!