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07-27-2019, 01:08 AM
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#1
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Vancouver BC
Posts: 1,526
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Flexible supply lines for kitchen sink
I'm now trying to solve a plumbing issue with the kitchen sink.
Has anyone replumbed the sink with the flexible supply lines to make sink removal easier? I'm thinking of trying this.
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07-27-2019, 09:05 AM
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#2
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Sunny Beaches of Los Angeles
Posts: 3,246
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larryjb
I'm now trying to solve a plumbing issue with the kitchen sink.
Has anyone replumbed the sink with the flexible supply lines to make sink removal easier? I'm thinking of trying this.
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Yes, and I did it for the same reason. So far, no problems after several years, although completely draining the fresh water system is not required where I live due to a non-freezing climate, so I do not know if that might be an issue.
Dave
__________________
2000 2720SL & 2007 3124KB
2005 Toyota Sequoia
Twin Battle Born 12v 100Ah LiFePO4 (BBGC2) batteries, 300W solar on rear shell, Link 10, Lift kit, Maxxis 8008 225 75/R15 E tires
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07-27-2019, 10:20 AM
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#3
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Vancouver BC
Posts: 1,526
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Thanks Dave. I missed the possibility of the water freezing in the loop. I guess I could flush some RV antifreeze through the system before draining, just to be safe.
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07-27-2019, 04:42 PM
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#4
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: The mountains of Scottsdale, AZ, and the beaches of Maine
Posts: 10,112
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If you plan the installation carefully, you might be able to arrange a constant-slope loop., which would be self-draining. I did it at my camp in Maine - works fine. It may help to make a constant slope spiral, and tie the loops together with nylon cable ties. Just cut the ties when you need to work, then re-tie them when you are done. With any luck, you don't have to remove the sink very often.
Bill
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07-27-2019, 04:50 PM
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#5
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Sunny Beaches of Los Angeles
Posts: 3,246
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill
If you plan the installation carefully, you might be able to arrange a constant-slope loop., which would be self-draining.
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Getting one just long enough to lift up the sink to stick your fingers in between the counter and sink to unscrew the lines would probably make this easy. Of course, you could also unscrew the lines where they connect to the PEX, and so then you wouldn't even need to accommodate that.
Dave
__________________
2000 2720SL & 2007 3124KB
2005 Toyota Sequoia
Twin Battle Born 12v 100Ah LiFePO4 (BBGC2) batteries, 300W solar on rear shell, Link 10, Lift kit, Maxxis 8008 225 75/R15 E tires
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07-28-2019, 02:38 PM
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#6
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Vancouver BC
Posts: 1,526
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I'm having trouble finding fittings:
I can find Sharkbite stops (the ones that have a valve on them and goes to a flexible supply line). But I cannot find any 1/2" nylon fitting that will attach to the nylon faucet itself. The only nylon 1/2" female FIP connectors that I can find for now require crimp fittings. I'd go ahead and use one of those IF I knew that my current 1/2" PEX crimp tool and crimp rings would work. I kind of doubt that, and the PEX pipe in the trailer is very different from the PEX I have in my home.
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07-28-2019, 07:07 PM
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#7
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Sunny Beaches of Los Angeles
Posts: 3,246
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It's been maybe 10 years since I did that, but I am pretty sure I just used a Sharkbite that had pipe threads on the opposite end, to which I connected a regular braided supply line; maybe it wasn't specifically for the sink, I can't remember, but it was definitely nothing special since I got it at a hardware store. And the other end of the supply line screwed onto the faucet nipple.
I think the Sharkbite is the "push male adapter": https://www.sharkbite.com/products/b...h-male-adapter
There's no stop on them, but one isn't needed in this application.
Dave
__________________
2000 2720SL & 2007 3124KB
2005 Toyota Sequoia
Twin Battle Born 12v 100Ah LiFePO4 (BBGC2) batteries, 300W solar on rear shell, Link 10, Lift kit, Maxxis 8008 225 75/R15 E tires
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07-28-2019, 08:51 PM
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#8
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Vancouver BC
Posts: 1,526
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Just went to Lowe's in Bellingham. They had tons of the U-channel sink clips. They also had the nylon faucet hoses that I am able to attach directly to a Sharkbite stop valve. All the stainless steel faucet hoses have metal ends that could easily cross thread the nylon faucet threads.
I just hope I can get the nylon hoses attached without crimping the hose when the sink goes in.
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07-29-2019, 05:17 PM
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#9
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Vancouver BC
Posts: 1,526
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The sink mod everyone in their sane mind should do
Finally got the plumbing done. (Almost... I have to extend the pipe to the water heater slightly. A Sharkbite straight coupler should do. )
Other than undoing the sink clips, it makes removing the sink easy. The supply lines with the nylon fittings seem to be in short supply. I had to go to Bellingham to get some stuff.
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07-29-2019, 11:27 PM
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#10
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Vancouver BC
Posts: 1,526
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Okay, I highly recommend doing this faucet mod. Don't do it until you have to open things up, but when you put thing back together, cut out the PEX risers to the faucet and put in longer flexible faucet hoses.
Bill is right that you cannot get the sink clips on the back left corner. However, if you break your left arm in just one place, you can get one clip about half way down the left side. If you break your right arm in two places, just below the elbow and just above the wrist, you can get two or three clips along the back of the sink, one being almost half way along the back behind the faucet. If you have water storage in the front of the trailer instead of under the sink, you might have an easier time putting the clips in, but what I've done is pretty good. I found the clips at Lowes in Bellingham.
I found rust on my sink too, this spring. Stainless steel doesn't rust like that, so that had to come from another source. Perhaps it was from an SOS pad (steel wool with soap). But I do have some bad pitting. It's not enough for me to want to change the sink though.
For now, the plumbing saga is over. Thanks to Bill and Dave for their suggestions. They were greatly appreciated! Bill, the hoses lay essentially flat on the hot water tank, so they should drain nicely as you suggested. Dave, he fitting you linked is 1/2" for the threaded end, and 1/4" for the Sharkbite end. This fitting would not work for me as I'd need the 1/2" end to be the Sharkbite end. However, this did really nicely:
https://www.sharkbite.com/products/b...ush-angle-stop
Tomorrow will be back to finishing the trim around the new floor.
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