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Old 04-03-2005, 03:49 PM   #1
rtcassel
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Default Reliable Sure Lube Greasing System Leak?

Has anyone had trouble with the Reliable Sure Lube greasing system? Six months ago I greased the hubs, using a hand-operated grease gun. It was the first time they were greased since manufacture, and they took about twice the amount of grease that the manufacturer says will completely exchange the grease (5 to 7 ounces per side, according to Reliable) until the old grease started coming out of the hole in the back of the axle. When I next adjusted the brakes, I noticed a black greasy/oily substance on the end of the tool (for both wheels). When I stuck my finger in the inspection hole on the front of the brake drum, it came out with a similar substance on it. I have not noticed any braking problems over the last couple thousand miles, but do not recall any panic stops either. I think I have a big problem. Has anyone else on the board experienced this?
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Old 04-03-2005, 05:51 PM   #2
Bill
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If I am not mistaken, most TMs come with Dexter EZ Lube hubs. I'm not sure why a few have Reliables, but there have been very few mentions on this board, so there probably isn't much experience base. You might PM MikeD, who has Reliables. He published the very nice paper "Mike and Kelly's TM Owners Manual" in the reference library.

I'm sure you have checked the Reliable website for more info. I think you are right - grease anywhere near the brake shoes/drums is a bad affair.

Sorry not to be more help.

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Old 04-03-2005, 08:34 PM   #3
RockyMtnRay
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Default Pull the drums immediately

Quote:
Originally Posted by rtcassel
When I stuck my finger in the inspection hole on the front of the brake drum, it came out with a similar substance on it. I have not noticed any braking problems over the last couple thousand miles, but do not recall any panic stops either. I think I have a big problem. Has anyone else on the board experienced this?
Yes, I also think you have a very big...and potentially quite dangerous...problem. It sounds to me like the seal around the hub has developed major leakage. And that means the interior of your brake(s) is/are likely permeated with grease (or the oil that's suspended in the grease). And that means (1) you very likely have substantially reduced trailer braking effectiveness and (2) a good probability of having a brake fire if you ever do get those brakes very hot (as in a panic stop from high speed or descent of a long mountain grade).

If I were in your shoes, I'd remove the wheels and pull those brake drums off ASAP...certainly before using the trailer's brakes even one more time. Then examine the situation and replace the seals and manually repack the bearings. If the brake shoes have become permeated with oil, they will have to be replaced. The brake drums should (if not terribly worn) be turned and thoroughly cleaned. And all traces of grease/oil inside the brake area must be carefully cleaned up.
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The Trailer: 2002 TM Model 2720SL ( Mods: Solar Panels (170 Watts), Dual T-105 Batteries, Electric Tongue Jack, Side AC, Programmable Thermostat, Doran TP Monitor System)

The Tow Vehicle: 2003 Toyota Tundra V8 SR5 4X4 w/Tow Package (Towing & Performance Mods: JBA Headers, Gibson Muffler, 4.30 gears, Michelin LTX M/S Tires, Prodigy Brake Controller, Transmission Temperature Gauge)


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Old 04-04-2005, 06:51 AM   #4
rtcassel
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Bill - Thanks for the tip re MikeD. From somewhere he got the information that the wheel should be rotated while applying the grease. I cannot find that info on the web.

Ray - Thanks for the heads-up re possible fire. I had not thought of that possibility. I tried to pull one of the drums following the information in the Dexter manual, but was not able to succeed in the last step of pulling the drum -- something was holding it in place. I have NEVER done anything like this before, and was afraid of forcing something.
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Old 04-04-2005, 07:25 AM   #5
RockyMtnRay
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Default Back off the shoes

Quote:
Originally Posted by rtcassel
Ray - Thanks for the heads-up re possible fire. I had not thought of that possibility. I tried to pull one of the drums following the information in the Dexter manual, but was not able to succeed in the last step of pulling the drum -- something was holding it in place. I have NEVER done anything like this before, and was afraid of forcing something.
Welcome...it's a insight I picked up from my roll as a moderator on the TundraSolutions forums.

As for inability to remove the brakedrum, I'm assuming you can get the drum(s) loose on the bolts but just can't get it to slide off. If that's the case, the "something" is very likely a ridge on the inside rim of drum caused by the brake shoes wearing a "groove" into the brakedrum over time. When you try to pull the drum off, this ridge hits the brakeshoes and stops the removal. The way to handle this is to use the brake adjustment tool to back off (many, many turns) the star adjuster wheel so that the brake shoes are retracted away from the drum enough that they are lifted clear of the worn groove.

And when you do get the drums off, be sure to have them "turned" on a lathe to remove this groove...if the groove is worn too far into the drum, then you'll also need to get new drums.
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I use my TM as a base camp for hiking, kayaking, mountain biking, and climbing Colorado's 14ers


The Trailer: 2002 TM Model 2720SL ( Mods: Solar Panels (170 Watts), Dual T-105 Batteries, Electric Tongue Jack, Side AC, Programmable Thermostat, Doran TP Monitor System)

The Tow Vehicle: 2003 Toyota Tundra V8 SR5 4X4 w/Tow Package (Towing & Performance Mods: JBA Headers, Gibson Muffler, 4.30 gears, Michelin LTX M/S Tires, Prodigy Brake Controller, Transmission Temperature Gauge)


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Old 04-05-2005, 08:54 PM   #6
Bill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rtcassel
I tried to pull one of the drums following the information in the Dexter manual ...
Perhaps it's just a slip o' the typewriter, but if you have Reliable SureLube hubs, are you sure you have a Dexter Axle and should be following the Dexter manual? I was under the impression - perhaps wrong - that Reliable makes their own axle assemblies - and if you have Reliable hubs, you would also have Reliable brakes, drums, spindles, bearings, etc.

I may be wrong - someone correct me ...

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Old 04-06-2005, 07:03 AM   #7
rtcassel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill
Perhaps it's just a slip o' the typewriter, but if you have Reliable SureLube hubs, are you sure you have a Dexter Axle and should be following the Dexter manual? I was under the impression - perhaps wrong - that Reliable makes their own axle assemblies - and if you have Reliable hubs, you would also have Reliable brakes, drums, spindles, bearings, etc.

I may be wrong - someone correct me ...

Bill
Thanks for your thoughts.

You are right in saying that Reliable makes all of that stuff.

In the documentation I received with my TM there is no mention of Reliable, but there was a Dexter booklet and photocopy pages of what may have been an earlier Dexter booklet.

The only indication that I have Reliable something is the silver cap on the end of the hub that says Reliable Sure Lube. A man I talked to at Reliable said that their axle would be marked on the right rear of the axle beam with the Reliable name and there would be an R on the axle part behind the spindle. I have neither, so I do not know what I have. I noticed on TM.com vendor contact list they have Dexter and Henschen as two axle providers.

I was able to pull one of the hubs and it is ugly inside -- a black, gooey mess. I cannot get the other hub off. It is not being held by the brake shoes, but something is holding it.
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Old 04-06-2005, 09:37 AM   #8
rtcassel
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Default Axle is a Henschen

I called the factory, and Ed looked up my VIN and said that I have a Henschen axle. He suggested checking for a serial number plate; on mine it was in the center rear of the axle, hard to see and read since it is painted black. Ed said that the axles, spindle, brakes, drum, hub, etc. arrive at the TM factory as one assembled piece.
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Old 04-07-2005, 04:43 PM   #9
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Default Henschen website

I found the following website for Henschen axle.

http://www.henschenaxle.com/

Given the info on their website, I conclude that they build the axle, and then assemble other party hubs, drums, brakes, etc. If the TM factory is getting the axle, hub, drums, brakes, etc. delivered as an assembled unit, then I would guess that Henschen or some other vendor, is "integrating" the axle and other components and delivering to the TM factory. Henschen also only deals with OEM's, and refers you back to your nearest dealer or service center (in this case I would assume TM).

It would seem that if your trailer is a 2004, then the TM factory should give you more assistance in repairing the problem.

MikeD

p.s. --

<<< Begin Rant >>>
This is one the big things that I have found to intensely dislike about the RV industry -- "that the manufacturer that you purchase from does not stand behind the assembled and delivered product." For any of the components - you are usually referred to the component manufacturer. I'd hate to have the wheel fall off of my car, and then have to track down the vendor who supplied the wheel hub the Chevy, Ford, Toyota, etc...
<<< End Rant >>>
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Old 07-11-2005, 09:39 PM   #10
rtcassel
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Default Follow up to brake saga

The TM factory helped out financially in getting the brake shoes replaced at a non-TM dealer, since the closest TM dealer does not yet have a service department.

The non-TM dealer had no acquaintance with the Reliable Sure Lube greasing system. He referred to the hub ends as "bearing buddies" and said that they are the cause of lots of problems like I had. So I still do not know why I had the failure. I have read endorsements on the Internet of the RSL greasing system when used on boat trailers.

Two hypotheses come to mind:
1. The horizontal channel that the old grease is forced thru out the back of the spindle was clogged, so the new grease found the path of least resistance around the seal. A guy I talked to at Reliable suggested cleaning out the channel with a drill bit before lubricating. There is also another channel that is perpindicular to the horizontal channel, connecting the horizontal channel with the bearing space. How to make sure that is not clogged is an unknown.
2. The wrong seals were used originally. I bought some replacement seals using a part number that the Reliable guy gave me. He said not to use any suggested replacement part. The seal has a spring that holds it against a stainless steel collar on the spindle. I have no idea what seals are on the trailer now, or if the collar is there.

I have twice asked for information on this axle from TM, but they do not appear to have any, since I have not received any documentation from them.

I have put about 2000 miles on the new brakes and they seemed to work OK. However, when I went to adjust them, the adjusting sprocket on one side was not accessible at the hole. I could see it about an inch past the end of the hole. How the non-TM dealer adjusted the brakes on that side is a mystery. Also the adjuster mechanism spring is located on top of the adjuster on one side and below on the other. I do not know if this is correct or not.

So I have another appointment at the non-TM dealer. I would like to think that this is the only thing wrong, but who knows. The Livingston RV repair and maintenance manual speaks of the primary shoe being installed toward the front of the trailer. I would like to at least confirm that that is true when they have it apart to fix the adjuster mechanism. Does anyone know how to identify the primary shoe? Thanks for listening.
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