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04-05-2016, 07:43 PM
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#1
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Orlando
Posts: 2,796
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Refridgerator won' t light
Water heater working fine on gas. Gas valve in back of fridge is on. Hold button in for a long time, push popper several times . Hold button in some more. Needle stays in white. Worked well last year.
Any ideas ?
__________________
Looking for a 24/17 in or near Florida.
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04-05-2016, 11:03 PM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: The mountains of Scottsdale, AZ, and the beaches of Maine
Posts: 10,119
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When you hold the red button in, does the meter climb at all, or stay pegged at zero? It sounds like it stays at zero. That means either no gas or no spark (bet you didn't know that!) If you can get someone to stand outside the TM and watch for spark when you pop the piezo button (after dark works great), you should be able to resolve that question. If you have spark, but it won't light at all, then most likely you have bugs (spider webs) in your burner. Blow it out with compressed air.
If the meter rises when you hold in the red button and pop the piezo, then you have both spark and gas. Then, if the meter falls back when you release the red button, the problem is likely electrical - specifically, a bad connection behind the refrig control panel. I went through this last year (you and I have the same model/year TM). I pulled the refrig several inches out into the room, so I could get access to the wires connecting to the AC/DC/GAS/OFF switch. One of the wires had actually popped off its terminal, and another was loose. I squeezed both connectors shut with pliers, pushed them back onto their tabs, and all was well.
I know that you know about the thermocouple, and the millivolt gas valve, so I won't go into that.
Let us know.
Bill
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04-06-2016, 04:34 AM
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#3
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Big Bend area, Florida
Posts: 2,120
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Could this be the infamous bad wire(s) on the meter problem that existed with some models?
__________________
Axis 24.1 E 450 chassis, 6 spd tranny. GVWR 14500# GVCWR 22000 # GW(scales) 12400 #
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
mods: 2- 100 watt solar panels, on roof, 300 watts portable
“They who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety.” Benjamin Franklin
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04-06-2016, 07:19 AM
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#4
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Orlando
Posts: 2,796
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Worked fine a year ago, dor you see the spark in the top panel or the bottom one ?
Needle does not budge.
and a miracle happened. Tried one more tine and needle started moving, now in the green.
only trouble now is am on 3/8 tank, One I just filled when open about half way a leak began around the stem. Only certain points I can hear/see but do not know on others if it is still leaking, just much less. Is there a way to open both at the same time and transfer from one to the other ?
__________________
Looking for a 24/17 in or near Florida.
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04-06-2016, 08:21 AM
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#5
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Somerset, OH
Posts: 1,868
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It seems like after my camper sits for a long period with the propane off. It takes a long time to bleed the air out of the line.
__________________
Art & Joyce
Current camper: Motor Home
Previous: 2009, 3023-QB and 2003 2720
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04-06-2016, 09:06 AM
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#6
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 123
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Firing the water heater seems to bleed the air out very quickly. Fridge starts right away. Otherwise I hold the valve for 5 min before attempting to start the fridge
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Tim & Michele
2720SL The "Inator"
Tanium 600lb WDH, Atwood power Jack, 2 inch lift kit, 15 inch tires, 200W Solar, T105 Pair, Yamaha EF1000i w/ propane conversion, Tuson TSC electronic sway control, Trojan Hydrolink battery watering system
2005 Ford Expedition
Factory tow Package, Tekonsha P3 brake controller, Grand Aero Tow mirrors
TRailer Valet XL
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04-06-2016, 11:22 AM
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#7
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: The mountains of Scottsdale, AZ, and the beaches of Maine
Posts: 10,119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Padgett
and a miracle happened. Tried one more tine and needle started moving, now in the green.
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Almost certainly a loose wire. If so, it will continue to be an intermittent problem, very annoying, and potentially expensive when your food spoils. So you will want to fix it. Pull the refrig out as I described, and tighten the spade connectors. Incidentally, I'm pretty sure that this is all that the recall fix does.
Quote:
only trouble now is am on 3/8 tank, One I just filled when open about half way a leak began around the stem. Only certain points I can hear/see but do not know on others if it is still leaking, just much less. Is there a way to open both at the same time and transfer from one to the other ?
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To answer your question directly - no. You can't transfer from one to the other. But you should use soapy-water spray on both, as you open and close the valves.
My experience several months ago - take it for what it is worth. If a leak begins around the stem, you can't fix it. And you don't want it to continue. I took my tank to a "real" propane place, and watched what the guy did. First, he transferred all the propane out of the tank and into a 100-pound tank he kept for that purpose. He had a special hose (dunno what exactly) for this. Then he clamped my tank into a holder fixture, and put a BIG wrench on the valve. Removed the valve, and screwed in a new one with some thread dope. Filled the tank, and leak tested it. Took my money.
I think I got some credit for the propane he took out of the tank. But probably not a lot. It might have been cheaper to buy a new tank if the tank was a standard upright model. But since it was a horizontal tank, this dance was necessary.
Bill
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04-06-2016, 01:04 PM
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#8
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Orlando
Posts: 2,796
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Thank you Bill. Soapy water should tell the tale. Repair need to wait till back home. 3/8 of a bottle may last long enough. Not easy to get to when slide is out.
__________________
Looking for a 24/17 in or near Florida.
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04-07-2016, 03:30 AM
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#9
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Downsville, Louisiana
Posts: 1,069
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The tank valves are designed to be fully closed or all the way open. The valve stem should stop leaking when the valve is opened all the way to the stop.
What I had to do with my tank valves: http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ad.php?t=12913
__________________
Mike Laupp
2013 Jayco Eagle Premier 351RLTS 5er - Honda 2000i x2 w ext. run tank
2017 F350 King Ranch ultimate CCLB SRW 6.7L V8 TD Fx4 BakFlip F1 & BakBox
TM History: '97 2720, '02 2720SL, '03 2720SL, '04 3326K. 2001 - 2012 yrs owned.
1990 Isuzu Trooper II 283 V6
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04-07-2016, 08:55 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 154
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Padgett,
You may want to take a look at this post also:
http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...t=15313&page=2
Post #12
I believe I may be having the same problem, and may have found a fix. I'm still not sold that I have it figured out, as I was having problems again at the end of last season. So, I'm planning to brush off the igniter and orphice again this year.
I'll try to remember to circle back and let you know if it works again.
Hope this helps?
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Mitch & Sarah (aka Fourteener)
Littleton Colorado
2007 2720 TrailManor
2008 Toyota 4Runner
Upgrades - Lift Kit with 15" Tires/Rims/Spare & Rack,
Mud Flaps, Blue Tote Caddy, WDH Bar Holders,
Custom Outside/Chassis-mounted Tool Box,
Stove Cover, Bathroom Tension Self,
Outside Speakers, Fresh H2O Deck Plate,
100 Watt Portable Solar Panel, Shower Mod,
Over-wall TV mount - - (The fun never ends :-)
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