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10-02-2011, 01:29 PM
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#1
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Guest
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kitchen sink
Weird issue. Although I had a pressure reducer in line, when I put in public water., the top cap of my kitchen faucet blew out. The cap is made of cheap pot metal. The thing actually popped off, leaving the threaded ring on. I tried epoxying the pieces but it wouldn't hold even water pump pressure. I went to a plumbing supply, but they couldn't match anything with the same thread. Has anyone dealt with this? If I need to replace the whole faucet, do I need to remove the water heater?
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10-02-2011, 02:23 PM
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#2
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Guest
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In my old pop-up I just replaced the whole faucet. I did not have to address the water heater. In a 2720, the only way to get at the faucet looks quite tight. I would not want to take the heater out. Can you take pictures of the underside of the faucet and plan out your attack?
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10-02-2011, 03:20 PM
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#3
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 412
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I had a problem with a broken line that hooked on to the faucet and ended up deciding it was easiest to remove the sink to get at it.
http://trailmanorowners.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=12073
Someone just removed the hot water heater to get at things down there.
http://trailmanorowners.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=12237
Removing the sink was a pain but it made working on things down there easy with the doors, drain, and center post removed. I did two other projects as long as I was under there.
http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ad.php?t=10458
http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ad.php?t=10037
Someone said they were able to remove the facet without taking anything out or off but I could not reach the hot water attachment.
__________________
Roger and Patty
TM:2006 2720SL
TV: 2010 Tundra w/ tow pac.
Dealer Options:swing tongue, sink cabinet, awning, air conditioning, tile
Modification: 15“ tires & monitor system, WDH, Prodigy B.C., 2-6 V. batteries & clipper monitor, LED's. Additional modifications can be seen in albums.
Pictures of campsites and places we visited can be seen at https://www.flickr.com/photos/101899116@N06/sets/.
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10-02-2011, 03:43 PM
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#4
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Guest
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I am not familiar with your model but do look to see if there are screws holding the center section of the cabinet, if so then you can remove the doors and center post, possibly need to remove the sink drain line and if you have long enough arms you can reach the connections up and under there. I was not so fortunate on my unit, but taking out the heater is not that big a deal. You have a little white box mounted on the wall inside the cabinet, it needs to come off, there are 3 wires connected to your switch and pilot lamp that come off. Then drain the tank (remove the anode), and then, with the gas tanks turned off remove the copper pipe from the water heater along with the rubber thing that fills the hole in the metal, push the copper inside the camper for now. Then go inside and remove the 2 pipes (hot and cold) from the tank and then the 6 to 8 screws that are on the outside of your heater. If possible have someone help you at this point as it easier if someone is inside guiding the tank as you pull it out. Set it on something so you don't have to remove the 110. All the above should take no more than 30 minutes. Then, reach in and remove your old faucet. I got mine at Lowe's for around $30, screw it into place, connect the water lines, and do everything in reverse. With help it should not be a huge project. The only major issues is be sure than you snug up the plastic connectors and that the gaskets are in place, over tighten and you you will hear a click as it breaks. Test your gas line with leak detector, also available at Lowes by putting it on the fitting outside after it is under pressure. Bubbles are indicator of a loose or leaky fitting, turn off gas and fix the problem. DO NOT TEST FOR GAS LEAKS WITH A FLAME!!!
This is probably a last resort, but my arms are short and the cabinet was not of the type that could be opened up by unscrewing things. For me, it was either that hot water tank, or no water. Plain and simple.
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10-02-2011, 05:39 PM
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#5
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 412
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My first idea was to remove the hot water heater also but decided to remove the sink and do the other modifications I had been considering. When I asked about taking out the hot water heater I don’t think anyone had done it yet, or at least no one remarked about my consideration on doing it.
If all you are going to do is the faucet I would strongly consider trying removing the doors drain and center arm. That should get you to the cold without much problem. I could reach the hot water faucet from the bathroom side with the walls folded down. I could not unscrew mine but I had tightened it when I had the leak or maybe I could have gotten it loose. It can be reached from the bathroom side when the walls are folded down.
If you can’t get it I would consider taking out the hot water heater as getting to all the hold downs for the sink took a lot of time, effort and digging through the tool box to find ways to get to all the hold downs.
__________________
Roger and Patty
TM:2006 2720SL
TV: 2010 Tundra w/ tow pac.
Dealer Options:swing tongue, sink cabinet, awning, air conditioning, tile
Modification: 15“ tires & monitor system, WDH, Prodigy B.C., 2-6 V. batteries & clipper monitor, LED's. Additional modifications can be seen in albums.
Pictures of campsites and places we visited can be seen at https://www.flickr.com/photos/101899116@N06/sets/.
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