Quote:
Originally Posted by rvcycleguy
I also think the factory could offer some insight into how or why the roof sagged.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HoMiPa
I'd certainly be interested in that response as well!
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I am in contact with Sonja from the parts department at TrailManor.
That was one question I asked them.
Most of the wall consists of:
-Interior Layer of Aluminum
-Expanded Polystyrene foam (Styrofoam)
-Exterior Layer of Aluminum
-External "KrystalKote" Polyester coating
There are some 1" square aluminum tubes, but most of the roofing is what you
They do sell the center trim. It used to be white, but is now being supplied in black. It is shaped like an upside down "U" and has two strips of 3M adhesive tape on the ends. It costs about $2 a foot.
After the trim is applied, the factory installs a fine bead of caulk at either edge of the trim. Nothing is supposed to go under the trim.
What I've done so far is to place a piece of plywood on the floor to protect it from the floor jack. I used a floor jack and a 2x4 to lift up on the roof.
In my pictures I have a 4x4 to distribute the load on the roof. I have removed that 4x4 and replaced it with a bathroom scale turned upside down. It takes just shy of 100 lbs of force to straighten out the roof.
My plan is to install 1.5" angle stock aluminum (1/8th inch thick) on the front edge of the rear shell. (I've removed the original 12 inch long center aluminum bit.) My aluminum will run the full 7 feet from side to side and place the loading closer to the walls.
This angle stock should easily hold 100 lbs with just a bit of deflection. I will use the original mounting holes for the original center aluminum brace and the two bumpers at the edges.
If needed, I will add a second angle bar to replace the curtain rail for the rear bedroom.